I did not want to hijack the thread on finishing cherry cabinets, but I have about the same questions.
I do wood and avoid finishing because I lack the knowledge and experience. Always when I have a fine piece to finish, I do not have the confidence to attempt the work. I made an 18th Century Pennsylvania Secretary for my wife and got someone else to do the finish because of the lack of confidence. I have regretted it since.
I am now ready to finish a cherry grandfather clock case and am determined to do it myself. My wife wants a dark finish to closely match furniture in the area where she will keep it.
The case, except the back is solid wood and the back is cherry ply. I have the equipment for spraying finish and some “book learning” in other meethods of finishing.
I think that the best way one could help me is by telling me what he (she in the case of forestgirl) would do to finishe this clock.
Replies
I don't know how dark, dark is, but I would use the same thing I told the poster about the kitchen cabinets only without the varnish. Shellac will be plenty durable for a grandfather clock, and garnet shellac in combination with BLO will darken cherry considerably. If you must make it darker I would use the shellac with some dye as a toner so as not to obscure the cherry with pigment stain.
Rob
- seconding what RobA said. Garnet shellac over BLO . Add some alchohol soluble dye to the shellac until it is dark enough.
Cherry has a well deserved reputation for being difficult to color. Not only does it have a tendency to blotch, it also darkens rather quickly on its own, so what is a good color today may be far too dark in just a short time.
This is one wood where I sympathize with the leave it natural crowd, but in the end I've colored every piece of cherry furniture I've made ( which aren't that many).
If the clock were mine, here is what I would do.
Carefully sand to 320 grit. Raise the grain with distilled water and sand off the fuzz with 320 or 400 grit paper; repeat this step until there aren't any areas of raised grain.
Mix up a solution of lye and distilled water as described in the Nov/Dec 1986 Issue of Fine Woodworking by Tom Dewey. The lye is kind of nasty stuff so use care. I've had excellent results by wetting the wood with plain distilled water and following while still wet with the lye solution. The plain water act as a sort of "stain" conditioner. I've used brushes with both natural and synthetic bristles, although I read where the natural brushes wouldn't hold up. The lye is pretty forgiving, just work from the bottom up. While wet the cherry will look pitiful, but don't worry the other steps are complete it will look great. I have not used anything to neutralize the lye before finishing, and there has been no difference over time in lye treated pieces or those finished in more conventional ways.
After the lye has dried a day, put on a coat of linseed oil. I apply mine hot with a touch of Japan drier added. When the linseed oil has cured a day or so, apply a heavy coat of Bartleys Pennsylvania Cherry Gel Stain. Wipe this gel stain off, using it to even out any color variations. This will not measurably obscure the grain. You can also leave a little in the corners to give some depth and age to the finish if you like. After this had dried I used one coat of a dark shellac and several more of a blond shellac.
The great advantage of the lye, is that it is color stable over time. I have a small piece I did as a sample over 10 years ago, and the inside and outside have remained the same color, despite being in a location with a lot of natural light. The color also compares favorable with that of well aged cherry.
I've attached photos of 3 pieces finished this way. Of the 3, the small table was the darkest. The darkness is a function of the lye to water ratio, so this is why a sample with each step along the way is essential.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Edited 2/21/2007 7:09 pm ET by RMillard
Edited 2/21/2007 10:22 pm ET by RMillard
Rob, I am looking for something as dark as the table( #2). I can work out color. What I have to work out is how and what to used for dye/stain and the kind of finish to use.
So far, I have experimented with a penetrating stain which was too dark. More experiments coming tomorrow. The use of lye seems complicated. Is it?
When I grow up, I want to be like you:-)
The lye isn't complicated. It isn't different than any other stain, as far as application, but since it is caustic, it is more dangerous to work with.
I'd be afraid to use a stain to get the cherry as dark as you want. It would probably obscure the grain and turn out looking "dead". Also since the cherry will continue to darken on its own, in the near future you may not be happy with the color.
I can fully appreciate your apprehension; finishing gives me a knot in my stomach. Doing a full sample(s) on scrap helps to ease the tension.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Rob,
I've printed your instructions and I am going to go downstairs and study them.
Thanks.
Coolbreeze,
You could duplicate the color of Rob M's beautiful table with garnet shellac mixed with trans-tint. Probably one of the darker browns and a little red or mahogany. If you go that route you will want to spray the shellac. Thin it way down and only apply as much as you have to, to get the sheen you want. About the only thing you can go wrong on with shellac is applying to much, it will lead to the finish "alligatoring" in the future. I would still use a coat of BLO first.
Or you could try Rob M's schedule, his work speaks for itself. Either way making samples is the key to finding the finish you want and building your confidence. Try both methods, it sure can't hurt.
Rob
Rob, I am considering Rob M's mathod seriously. Yours seem to be one I could do. I am making copies of yours and Rob M's post for study.
Thanks
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled