Replies

1. 
   Kevin | Aug 09, 2003 09:19pm | #1

   I would sand the cherry ply along with the solid stock before finishing. I wouldn't use anything courser than 220P on either.

   Depending on the color and how dark it is... veneer is well known for taking stain slightly differently than solid stock - particularly with darker colors. But, that shouldn't be an issue for you since you're using a gel stain. Gel stains don't behave the same as classic penetrating stains. The color with gel stains sorta floats on top and negates many of the known issues (blotchy, uneven coloration for example) that one has to deal with when using a penetrating stain on something like Cherry.

   It would be a good idea (it always is IMO) to mock-up a small piece of scrap solid and veneered ply then sand, stain and poly it. That'll tell you exactly how the actual chest is gonna look.

   I never tackle a stained project without first doing samples so that I know exactly how it's gonna look when I tackle the actual project. Much easier to throw away a rejected sample and figure out a fix than to be faced with stripping down your entire project and refinishing it.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   woodshoplast | Aug 10, 2003 05:46pm | #2

   Thanks Kevin, this is first time I've used veneer plywood. The veneer is a little darker. I'll be sure to test scrap. Thanks again, Arnold

1. 
   Kevin | Aug 10, 2003 10:08pm | #3

   The veneer may simply have oxidized more than the solid stock. If so, sanding or scraping it lightly should remove some of that and bring it closer in color to the solid stock. You're right to be apprehensive about removing any more wood from the veneer than absolutely necessary. There is obviously much less to work with because of how thin veneers are these days. But, a light sanding or scraping won't remove so much that it'll cause a problem. Just be careful and keep an eye out for the veneer getting too thin. If there is a lump or high spot in the ply layer beneath the veneer (which is unfortunately not all that uncommon), it is easy to burn thru the veneer while attempting to get the surface flat. You should be able to feel any high points by running your hand over the surface, though. Once you know where they are, if there are any, just be careful about not sanding or scraping too aggresively there and you should be just fine. I sand Cherry veneered ply all the time with a pneumatic sander without any problems.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   woodshoplast | Aug 13, 2003 04:14am | #4

   Thanks again Kevin. The stock I have looks good. You're probably right about the color as I just planed down the solid. Fresh cut is always light for awhile.

2. 
   woodshoplast | Aug 16, 2003 04:08am | #6

   Kevin & Paul.  I have light sanded the veneer and believe its still too dark to match. Now trying to decide if I should dye it honey amber followed with penn cherry gel stain. I've done that with solid cherry with good results but never with veneer combo. Gonna give it a week to sit while visiting the sunny south. A little golf, maybe a gambling boat, and some beach time. See what you guys think when I get back. Appreciate your help. agriffee  

1. 
   Kevin | Aug 16, 2003 09:11pm | #7

   As I mentioned before, gel stains tend to stain very evenly. It'd definitely be worth mocking up a small piece of solid and veneered ply and staining it just to see. My hunch is that the slight difference in color between the solid Cherry and the Cherry veneered ply will be moot once you apply the gel stain. If you were planning on just a clear finish without any stain, then I'd be more concerned about the color difference. But, I honestly doubt that it'll make a difference here.

   Enjoy your vacation!

   Regards,

   Kevin

2. 
   pwalt | Aug 16, 2003 09:33pm | #8

   If you're still concerned about matching the solid wood after sanding you might consider using a water based dye. Try it on a piece of scrap first. The advantage is that the dye should bring the finished results of the veneer and solid close together. I would start dark on a piece of scrap and then lighten the dye in the container by adding more water. You can do this as often as you wish, just adding a little water at a time until you have something you're happy with. Hope you don't run out of scrap first.

   Paul

2. 
   pwalt | Aug 13, 2003 09:21pm | #5

   I agree that the plywood should be sanded lightly to even out the color with the solid wood as much as possible. Make sure all plywood edges are banded with solid wood - that way it protects against rounding over at the edge and sanding through the veneer. Good luck!

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 18, 2003 10:55pm | #9

   Most hardwood veneer plywood is factory "sanded" to about 180 grit. In most cases, sanding to more than 180-220 grit is not a good idea. Pigment stains need nooks and crannies to work. Therefore, a light hand sanding, with the grain using 180 grit should be all that is needed. Veneer generally stains somewhat lighter than solid wood. One way to deal with this is to sand the veneer with 180 and then sand the solid with 220.

   But, the best advise is to make up a sample board. Sand some of your scrap plywood with 180 and then sand some of your solid with the same. Now stain it and see what the color difference is. Make the appropriate adjustments and try again. When you get it right, then move on to your project. Never do testing on your project.