Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 31, 2005 07:13pm | #1

   Nice looking table. 

   I wouldn't finish the slides.  Too much risk of them blocking together if they sit in the same position for a length of time. 

   Let me also give in to a pet peave of mine.  If you haven't gotten there yet, I'd suggest substituting a traditional resin varnish for the poly.  It will rub out much more easily.  As far as protection goes, unless you plan to walk on the table with your shoes on the traditional varnish will offer ample protection from the usual risks affecting dining tables.  Behlen's Rock Hard is excellent for this application.  It does require thinning since the maker has reduced the amount of solvent to meet VOC regulations.  I'd use the Rock Hard reducer--out of excess of caution rather than certainty that it would work better than ordinary mineral spirits. 

   Be sure to wait as long as possible--a month or so-- before the final rub out, even (or especially) if you stay with the poly. 

1. 
   bobtexas | Oct 31, 2005 07:51pm | #2

   Thanks for the good advice Steve.  Unfortunately I already bought the stain/poly combo and would have a 100 mile trip to return them.  I've had great results in the past with this combo but am open to trying new finish combos.

   I will definitely take the 1 month final rubout tip though.

   I'm a newbie to woodworking and am really having fun figuring it out.

   I put the whole top together this past weekend.  Gluing up the big sections was hairaising.  But the sections came out very nice.  I just have to router the table edge now.

   Your advice about blocking up was my thought also.  On the other hand, a big humidity change might also do that but I doubt as much as the finishes melding together.

   This is a great project.

   Thanks.  Bob

1. 
   jdclarey | Oct 31, 2005 08:52pm | #3

   Is the one month waiting period for the final rubout purely for letting the poly full cure??

1. 
   bobtexas | Oct 31, 2005 09:39pm | #4

   I don't know.  I assume.  How about asking Steve above.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 01, 2005 08:13am | #8

   I think thats basically it.  The cure involves both the hardening aspects of the cure, and shrinking that accompanies it.  For rubbing out, harder is better since it allows for a finer, more uniform "scratch pattern" that then can be more easily buffed up to whatever final gloss is desired.  But poly, while tough, just doesn't get the same hardness that allows a really good rubbout.  Thats partially why poly has less clarity than traditional resin varnishes, and particularly less clarity than either shellac or lacquer. 

2. 
   beachfarm | Oct 31, 2005 09:56pm | #5

   Stain the guide rails but skip the poly. Use a quality paste wax instead.

   Unsolicited opinion on the use of polyurethane on (or for) anything: Don't.

   Regards.

1. 
   bobtexas | Oct 31, 2005 10:04pm | #6

   Now that makes sense.  Wax the rails.  That would semi-seal the wood against big moisture swings and lower the friction.

   I personally like polys.  What do you have against them?

   Bob

1. 
   beachfarm | Oct 31, 2005 10:37pm | #7

   I just don't care for the look or feel of cured poly(s). Too much like plastic - rubbed out or not. Varnish (brushed) or post-catalyzed lacquer (sprayed) offer protection beyond poly, age beautifully and can be repaired. Just my opinion(s)...Regards.