I once saw a great plan for a chess board where they used overlapping board “rows” rather than seperate squares. I didn’t pay much attention at the time, but now I cannot seem to find that plan.
Does anyone here know what I am talking about or seen a similiar plan method?
Thanks.
Replies
Basically what you do is you glue toether alternating colors of wood (ie. maple, black walnut). Make 4 drak strips, and 4 light strips, about 18" long and, eg. 2" wide. They need to be longer than 16" because of the kerf when you recut them. Then plane, sand, etc, the striped panel nice and flat. Then you cut across the panel at 2", so now you have a bunch of strips 2" wide but 16" long. Each 16" long panel is composed of alternating light and dark 2" squares. Reglue them alternating stripes and you get squares on a chessboard and make a frame around that.
This is how Mr. Wells in shop class showed us to do it.
Just don't run it crossgrain through a planer, like I did the first time.
I guess if you really want you can do lapjoints. but personally I would do what piccioni said
"It is like hitting yourself in the head with a hammer: it feels so good when you stop"
Edited 2/7/2008 7:26 pm ET by andyfew322
You mentioning a lapjoint jogs my memory. That is how they did it and I remember thinking how different that was. I just can't remember where I saw it. I'll stop looking for it, then I will probably find it.
Thanks.
Last year i was searching for a chess board plan and found the following:http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_26948,00.htmlIt is a david marks design and worked spectacularly well. Highly recommended.
I think the plan you are referring to was published in Popular Woodworking. The specific issue was volume #138 published December 2003. Here's a pic of the chessboard from that article -- look familiar?
View Image
You can find the project plans here:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projectplans_display/?planid=11142
Edited 2/18/2008 1:15 am ET by pzaxtl
Ron Polloro has a video on how to sharpen a veneer saw. I followed his advice and cut individual squares of veneer. I then glued them to the substrate with the grain running perpendicular to each other. This is the way it's supposed to be done IF you are a purist. In the past I made them as others have suggested. This results with the grain of all the squares running the same direction.
Polloro's best design used curly Koa and curly maple.
I may have spelled his last name incorrectly.
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