Replies

1. 
   roc | Nov 27, 2011 04:33pm | #1

   James Krenov Liked to . . .

   apply a well thinned coat of shellac to the secondary wood drawer parts.  Mostly to fend off finger prints and dirt.

   After the rails are installed, so as not to get in the way of any glue you choose to use, just put candle wax where the drawers run.

   DO NOT USE bee's wax or the drawers will stick.  Funny isn't it ?  Wax isn't wax.  I had to learn the hard way.

   PS: your chest of drawers sound beautiful.  I hope you will find time to post a photo or three when it is complete.

1. 
   KNOTHEAD101 | Nov 28, 2011 06:29pm | #2

   Hi roc, Thanks for the reply. If I understand you correctly, the shellac would act as a sealer coat on the entire interior. There are areas of this where the poly finish will overlap the shellac, will this be a problem? Also I live on the CT shore with high humidity sometimes. Will the shellac  act as a barrier against mold, if it happens? Aother point I just thought about, do you think it would be a good idea to seal coat the whole piece with blonde shellac as a sealer coat and also to minimize the blotching of the cherry?I was planning on using just an oil poly finish and let it darken naturally. Thanks very much.

1. 
   roc | Nov 28, 2011 08:01pm | #3

   >the shellac would act as a sealer coat on the entire interior.<

   Well let me say this about that :  Krenov referred to the thin shellac that I mentioned as "polish".  Mostly that just means it is cut with thinner  even more than a sealer coat.

   To me a sealer coat implies one is going to put more finish over the top of the sealer.  I believe you do not intend to do this on the inside of your cabinet.  The oil poly inside the cabinet may take a long time to dry and smell bad.  This is where it in theory gets tricky because most serious finishers recommend coating both sides of the components of a project equally so the components don't absorb moisture at a different rate inside than out.  Eventually it equalizes anyway it is just the transition periods that could get a little distorted.

   I am hopping at this point the people in the know here will jump in and save my bacon.

   The coating I was talking about isn't much of a seal against anything but finger prints and dirt.

   >poly finish will overlap the shellac<

   This should be no problem especially if you use de-waxed shellac.

   >CT shore with high humidity. . . Will the shellac  act as a barrier against mold. . .?

   I have no experience with that.  I live in Colorado in the wild wild west. Bone dry here.

   > seal coat the whole piece with blonde shellac as a sealer coat and also to minimize the blotching of the cherry?<

   Some say the best "sealer " is just a thinned application of your main finish.

   Again I hope some one will jump in here

   I have not spent much time with cherry but it is on the list to make some one drawer "work tables" other wise known as "Lamp stands".  So this info would help me out.

   Mostly I was just addressing your secondary wood finishing question.

2. 
   bones | Nov 29, 2011 11:17am | #4

   more to worry about

   The sticking would not be the problem.  If you finish the drawer boxes with oil, it will stink up what ever you put in it for a long time while it offgases and I'm not talking a couple weeks.    I only made that mistake once a long long time ago. Now I finish the drawer fronts (tape off the rest.  I leave the interiors plain.  I use maple, but poplar will work fine.   I put a coat of wax on the runners and no issues. If you absolutely must finish a simple coat of 1 or 2 lb shellac will be ok, but thats it and it really don't need it.    

1. 
   KNOTHEAD101 | Nov 29, 2011 07:44pm | #5

   Hi, Thanks for the input. Would there be any advantage to using 2 coats of blonde shellac on the interior and 1 on the exterior as a sealer and to control  blotching. I've finished a few cherry projects using different combos for a clear finish. There is always some amount of blotching on one board or another. The one piece that has the least blotching was done with a base coat of boiled linseed oil, followed by 2 coats of varnish. Did I just get lucky or is this a good idea. Thanks again guys.  

1. 
   bones | Nov 30, 2011 12:30pm | #7

   blotching or blushing

   One should suffice, but then I don't use any.  I work mostly in cherry and by nature you get some blushing and I tend to like it but if you wish to minimize then two things.  One you can control by using a blotch control product and use color (dye not stain) to build it as well.  Me I love natural cherry but if you have a lot of curl you can dampen it with blotch control.  I prefer Charles Neil's blotch control (google it) it does a good job.  My preferred finish is waterlox satin.  It's a oil/varnish mix that was designed about a hundred years ago for wood floors.  I know I said oil is bad, but I was speaking of putting raw oil on because of the cure time.  Waterlox sets hard as a rock and gives that in the wood glow for Cherry.   It's expensive but I just love it.   My brother reccomended it and I've used it since.   It can be wiped, brushed, or sprayed.  I prefer to spray but watch your runs they are a devil to deal with.     Again, for me no finish on drawers.   Go look at some really old pieces and judge for yourself.   Wax the runners and forget it.   That's easily done with the butt of a candle and 2 minutes once a year.  

3. 
   roc | Nov 29, 2011 10:59pm | #6

   You are just not getting the help you need so

   I went and looked up something for you.  If you are not already an FWW on line member you will need to at least sign on to the 14 day free trial to view it.

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=31063

   There are just tons of past discussion in the old posts all so.  I searched "cherry blotch" and boy howdy.

1. 
   KNOTHEAD101 | Nov 30, 2011 06:15pm | #8

   finishing inside of chest.

   Thanks to both of you guys for trying to help me out. I am still in the early stages of building this piece. I've put it on the back burner a few times in the last couple of years, mostly because of trying to figure out my plan. The construction is about 30% complete and the design is about 90% done. Before building the 8 drawers, I started thinking about finishing. With your advice I'm leaning towards a thin coat of shellac on the entire chest, inside and out and waterlox oil poly on the outside. Thanks again.

1. 
   hammer1 | Dec 01, 2011 08:57am | #9

   Shellac is a good choice for the interior of drawers. It dries quickly and leaves no lingering odor. I apply it with a mouse, moving very fast, usually two coats is sufficient. I used amber shellac in the photo. I finish the parts before assembly.

   You don't have to worry about blotching unless you are going to stain.

   Recently, I used Waterlox for the first time. I have many years experience as a pro finisher. That's the worst stuff I've ever come across. I'd highly recommend doing some samples with it before you commit to the chest.

   I wouldn't use shellac on the exterior of the chest. Since you are a novice at finishing, I'd go with a wipe on poly, very easy and forgiving. Shellac can effect adhesion of other materials. Make sure it's compatible with the top coat you choose. Read the cans and carry your samples all the way to the end. Heartbreaking to do all the nice work on a project and have finishing problems.