I recently built a blanket chest and when I started staining the top of the chest, I noticed that it began to warp in one corner. The chest is made from pine. It seems to be getting worse with time. I was wondering if it would be possible to steam the top in order to bring it back down. I was thinking about putting a hot plate with a pan of water in the bottom of the chest and letting the steam penetrate the top while at the same time using clamps to pull the top back down. Obviously I need to protect the bottom of the chest from the heat of the hot plate but other than that, do you think it will work.?
Replies
Warping is prevented by a careful choice of materials and an appropriate design that will control any warping that does occur in the stock. In woodworking prevention of warping is a much better plan than trying to fix the problem afterward.
Occasionally it is possible to counteract warping but it is a powerful effect. It is very unlikely that your approach will correct the problem which will probably get worse for awhile as the wood aclimates to some change in its environment. You fix may in fact create additional warpage in other parts of the chest as they absorb additional moisture from the pan of water.
John W.
Probably a waste of time. Post a picture of the chest and maybe someone will come up with an idea short of remaking it.
DR
Thanks. I think I'm going to have to remake the top.
David,
You didn't say how thick the top is, here is something that might help. Try making a batten that will reach from one corner to the opposite diagonal corner. Clamp it (on the underside of the top, of course) at each end, to the corner that is turning up, and its diagonal opposite. I'd start with about a 1 X 2. To improve its looks, you can taper the ends down to 3/4" or so, and you might need to plane a belly in the middle to counteract the warping pressure. Once you get it to pull out the warp, attach with screws (no glue). You can attach matching pieces running across the opposite diagonals, "just for pretty" if you want to keep things symmetrical. If anyone asks about the battens, tell 'em , "They're for strength".
Good luck,
Ray Pine
Thanks for the suggestion. I will give it a try before I proceed on making a new top. The top is 3/4 inch pine and is made up of three different boards that have been biscuited together with alternate grain direction. I also ran a bread board (tongue and groove) across each end of top as well but it still warped on me in one corner. Lumber was nice and straight when I started and it had sat in my shop for three weeks before I did anything with it.
What type of stain did you use? If is was water based then you might find that by not allowing both sides to dry evenly(laying flat on a bench), one side will dry fast and cup while the other side stays damp. I work with water based dyes all the time and if I lay a board down on the bench to dry, it will cup severly(especially with thinner material). I can always get it back by gradually moistening the cupped side and when it gets flat I then let it dry evenly.
Eric
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