Replies

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 30, 2002 08:02pm | #1

   Two of the finishes you mention I know aren't  very waterproof. Pure tung oil is minimally water resistant. The linseed oil/turp/varnish varnish mix is rather soft containing very little film forming varnish, so you'll need maybe 15 or so coats to build up any real protection for a dining table. I don't know anything about the Waterlox as I've never seen it applied or in use that I know of, so I can't help you with that one.

   You still need a film finish of some sort to create a barrier between the timber and the liquids likely to cause problems, and as you don't want to use polyurethane you might consider an alkyd varnish  formulated for interior use. They are harder than yacht varnishes, so effective at creating the barrier I mentioned. You might also consider one of the water based varnishes, or possibly a sprayed on lacquer, but I suspect from your question you don't a spray gun. Filling the grain is merely a design option. It's not necessary, but if you don't fill it then over the years the grain will tend to fill with dirt and so on, which is fine in an older well used piece of furniture.

   I don't think there's really no need to sand open grained timbers like chestnut beyond about 180- 220 grit. After this the pores or open grain are coarser than the abrasive grit, but you've probably done absolutely no harm sanding to 320. Slainte, RJ

   http://www.RichardJonesFurniture.com

1. 
   user-33408 | Apr 30, 2002 11:40pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply.  Although I don't want to use a marine/spar varnish because the coat will be too hard and not take the dings that soft chestnut will get ( crack...). I'll look into the laquer or even the poly. I do use an HVLP sprayer and will either apply it this way, or wiping.

   What's your suggestion to give an oil/wax looking finish but with the durability of a varnish

   thanks

   ray locke

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 01, 2002 01:07am | #3

   >>Although I don't want to use a marine/spar varnish because the coat will be too hard and not take the dings that soft chestnut will get ( crack...). I'll look into the lacquer or even the poly

   Ray, marine spar varnish not hard. It is a soft, flexible long oil varnish that is designed to "give" without cracking or crazing and to maintain its integrity as the wood expands and contracts in a marine environment. That's why it is used on boats. It is a good finish to use on soft woods that easily dent where you want a finish to give and not fail.

   That said, I would use a standard interior varnish on a hard wood such as chestnut--not poly varnish if you don't want to use it. The only advantage to poly varnish is that the poly additive gives it somewhat more scratch and heat resistance. Standard interior varnish will be lots less yellow than spar varnish which contains phenolic resin (very amber) and UV inhibitors (very amber).

   You will need 4-6 coats of standard varnish or 8-12 coats if you make it into a wipe on varnish. Make your own wipe on varnish by mixing your varnish with naphtha in a 50/50 ratio. No need to pay extra for a "watered down" marketing product.

   An oil/varnish finish is a "close to the wood" penetrating finish that leaves the feel of wood to the surface. However, it is not very durable at all. If you want water and moisture protection you need a film finish which will somewhat or completely hide the tactile wood feel of the surface. You are caught in the eternal conundrum. Appearance verses protection and durability.

   Edited 4/30/2002 6:15:08 PM ET by Howie

2. 
   SgianDubh | May 02, 2002 07:22am | #4

   As Howie said ray, it's pretty much a case of one or the other. Either you apply a durable moisture/alcohol/ding resistant film finish, or you don't. The film finish will be pretty effective, but relatively hard to repair once it's damaged, whether it be a varnish of some sort, shellac- probably not a good choice for a dining table, or a lacquer. The oily, waxy finish will damage easily, but is usually- but not always- easier to fix.

   One further possibility not yet mentioned is the 'no finish' approach, i.e., bare wood. Chestnut is an ideal candidate. Let the gunge, and the grease, and the red wine stains, and the dents build up for a while, maybe six months or a year, then take a bucket of hot water and maybe add a little vinegar. Sluice this over the surface, and scrub it with a hard bristle brush. Let it dry and knock the fuzz off lightly with some abrasive paper. It's an approach with plenty of precedents, and is certainly very simple, with relatively low tech., and low skill maintenance. A tile floor below the table would be a good choice along with a waterproof adhesive to edge joint the planks. Slainte, RJ.http://www.RichardJonesFurniture.com

2. 
   Gretchen | May 02, 2002 10:33pm | #5

   My favorite finish is satin marine spar varnish (NOT poly) applied 50/50 with mineral spirits wiped on. I put about 8+ coats on a table top.  It is completely alcohol/water resistant.  Also pretty good for hot things although I do use a trivet.  It takes the dings very well.

   Gretchen