Replies

1. 
   geedubbee | Apr 04, 2020 11:33pm | #1

   Generally a table or other large field of different figure directions wrapped with a border is best done using veneers for the different figure directions. That is, use a substrate, apply your chevrons as veneer and then wrap the trim around that panel. For affixing the trim you can use tongue and groove, splines, another mechanical method or just glue the trim on.

2. 
   drew_z | Apr 05, 2020 12:26pm | #2

   GeeDubBee is right - this will only be built to last as a veneer project. Solid wood will blow itself apart over time as the wood wants to move in different directions. The reason chevron patterns work on floors or walls is that it is nailed down (not glued) so it can float slightly, as well as expand an contract unnoticed underneath baseboard. Also any slight buckling caused by the wood pushing and pulling in all directions is less noticeable on a floor than it will be on a tabletop. While you would be able to make a beautiful edge-trimmed chevron table initially, it will just be a ticking time bomb of cracks, splits, and warps.

   Use veneer in the dimension you want your pattern in. You can shop saw them or purchase veneer strips in many dimensions from online veneer vendors. You can also buy sheets and cut strips to desired size. I would then use veneer tape to lay up the pattern and then apply to a substrate (high quality MDF would work well and stay flat / not have any void issues). It would be very helpful to have a vacuum press for this but I believe there are plenty of articles here on FWW for veneering without a vacuum. Be sure to veneer the underside as well to balance your veneers. This is very important. You do not have to chevron the underside, you could just lay up larger veneer sheets, but you may want to continue the same pattern on the bottom. Then as GeeDubBee says affix your edge trim however you like, T&G, splines, biscuits, whatever works for you.

3. 
   concealed | Apr 05, 2020 12:58pm | #3

   Well, I am glad I asked. But that makes me more unsure of what I should do. How thick could i go on the pieces? Can I just cut them with my table saw, stand on edge and cut thin strips off? Could I do something else to help the wood movement not be as much of a concern? I dont have to use a Chevron pattern, I just liked the look and want it to stand out more than just a simple straight board top. It is not actually a table, more of a rolling double sided bookcase. It will be about 36" tall and in a local church. I am open to ideas.

4. 
   concealed | Apr 05, 2020 02:16pm | #4

   What if I did not use a frame around it? Could it then be done without the veneer?

5. 
   geedubbee | Apr 06, 2020 01:17am | #5

   Sounds like we need a little more information. Do you have a sketch of the piece? Would the decorative panels be only on the top? Do you have a bandsaw available for cutting the veneer? Sorry for so many questions. A picture or a sketch will help.

6. 
   rob_ss | Apr 06, 2020 02:05am | #6

   Interested in following this.
   What thickness of shop-sawn veneer would be ideal? When does veneer become solid wood?
   Is there a certain thickness or level of flexibility?
   The way I see it, thinner veneer is cheaper, easier to get clean joints and less likely to cause traction issues, but riskier in terms of glue strike through and wear-through with sanding. Thicker veneer is more robust and easier to handle in the shop processing, but of course the edges have to be more precise to avoid gaps.

   As you can tell, I've never done veneer work, so any advice offered would be appreciated.

7. 
   concealed | Apr 06, 2020 05:36am | #7

   Not a great sketch, but that is what I was thinking. The strips of Chevron no wider than 3". I can get to a band saw, but at 3" or less my tablesaw will also handle that cut to make thin pieces. The chevron would only be for the top. Hope the helps you, and me. Thanks.

   
8. 
   gulfstar | Apr 06, 2020 07:55am | #8

   What about using hardwood flooring glued and nailed to a 3/4 plywood?