Replies

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Oct 13, 2006 12:47am | #1

   Papa,

   Do you mean the sculpted corner blocks between the leg and the chair rails - usually dowelled or traditionally haunched mortise and tenon then sculpted

   Cheers,

   eddie

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 13, 2006 01:45am | #2

   I think you'll find most of these blocks were just glued in place--perhaps with a nail from the bottom rear. A few may have been tenoned into place, but I doubt you will find any 18th. century examples where they were attached with dowels or biscuits.  They are non-structural so glue will work pretty well.  With hot hide glue they can just be rubbed into place with no clamps. 

1. 
   Mckenna | Oct 13, 2006 03:40pm | #3

   That clears is up, thankyou very much.

    

    

3. 
   mbholden | Oct 17, 2006 12:30am | #4

   Glue is the way I was taught.

   See the attached pics

   
1. 
   Mckenna | Oct 17, 2006 03:26pm | #5

   Nice work, glue sounds adequate.  What type of joinery did you use for the seat frame?

1. 
   mbholden | Oct 17, 2006 10:29pm | #6

   Seat frame was bridle joints, but my upholsterer requested that I use a piece of plywood in the future.  Says that the opening is not really large enough for webbing but too large for not having any support. Would certainly make it easier (grin).

   BTW, I forgot to mention that the knee blocks are glued ONLY to the legs. The rails are not yet glued in. Reason being, the ability to shape the knee blocks without worry about damaging the rails.

   The corner posts are left for after the rails are glued in. Last operation is the molding of the top edge. I used a router, you could use a molding plane as well. I did the first with a router balanced on the seat frame, but did the second upside down on a router table. I would use the table method if I were doing it again. Unless, of course, I managed to find an appropriate molding plane, I would have to try that just to see how I liked it.

   The two pictured are 17 inch high mahogany, and 11 inch high curly maple. The 17 inch is historically correct, but the 11 inch is more useful as a footstool. I later learned that the 17 incher was used to sit on, not necessarily for your feet.

1. 
   Mckenna | Oct 20, 2006 11:32pm | #7

   I'v been constructing this project in CAD before I make any saw dust.  This has already saved a few headaches and trees.  I implemented bridle joints on the seat frame.  I think I will modify the transition to simply glue to the post block as well.  <!----><!----><!---->

   For the molding on the top edge, I am planning to use the table router.  My table fence is just a little shorter than the post block.  So, I should be able to route the molding after assembly.

    

   <!----><!----> 

   
1. 
   mbholden | Oct 21, 2006 10:17pm | #8

   You may want to consider a router bit with a bearing.

   I am not sure that a fence is the best way to move around the corner on the post.

   The radius is fairly tight, but still a radius. You would have to rotate the assy at the midpoint of the bit starting from the begining of the radius thru to the other side. Quite a feat of coordination, I would think.

   The bearing makes it easy. No fence needed, just a starting pin. Not even that really, just put the fence back a couple inches and use it for a starting pin.

   Be sure and post some pics when you get it done. Let me know if you have any other questions about them.

   Mike