I have quite a few chisels and plane blades that are made from A-2 tool steel. the blades from LV and Hock in the A2 steel tend to chip from standard use, by this I mean the edges are almost like a saw blade ( very small chips) just after a bit of use. I also have some chisels that are from Blue Spruce made from A2 steel, these wear normal ( no jagged edges) they dull after use and I sharpen them. These other chisels and plane blades (LV and Hock) seem to be to brittle and break the edges every time! Has anyone else had the same problem? My inexpensive marples and other steel chisels do not have this problem. any comments would be appreciated. Most of the ground angles are 25 deg with a 30 deg. micro bevel.
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Replies
There could have been an issue with a certain batch of steel or a problem with the heat treatment. AFAIK, both LV and Hock stand by their products. It's worth it to give them a call or email and see what they can do for you.
thank you, I also have the same problem with IBC chisels. they to are also brittle.
This is a quote from the Lie-Nielsen website regarding their A-2 chisels:
>>>>>>
....... a higher secondary bevel of around 35ยบ is advisable, depending on the wood and how the chisel is being used.
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I think it's safe to assume this advice applies to LV and Hock as well.
Mike
I have about 15 or so LN plane blades. One had about a 4 mm chip out of edge- no damage in shipment etc. It looked like the steel had crumbled. They sent replacement. Beyond that Ive found I need to get the bottom absolutely mirror polished with no scratches...If I don't ...some of those blade edges tend to break down quicker with very small crumbling divots. The pair for my LA Jack are awful. I have about 6 or so Hocks and never had any problems with them. I love LN tools, the design, materials, fantastic to use. I do think they have some quality control problems.
thank you for all your feed back.I will try
mikeinohio advise and try a higher micro bevel . thanks again for all input.
I have only cheaper chisels, mostly second-hand and none of them fancy steels, just standard high carbon.
All will last a whole project without needing to be re-sharpened.
One day I may buy fancier steels to try, but I'm struggling to see the point.
I'd suggest a shallower secondary bevel may help - points that are too steep will chip more after all, but no experience with the specific material.
A lot of brand new tools get decarburized in heat treatment. They lose carbon on the very surface. That surface has to be removed to get to good steel. If you only give a light honing, you haven't gotten to good steel. A quick grind and sharpen will fix the issue. Old tools don't have this issue because previous owners have fixed it for you.
The other issue might be your sharpening angle. Aside from carving tools and one paring chisel, I think all of my tools are sharpened at 35 degrees. If yours are less, especially in A2, they'll be prone to chip. I'd pretty much guarantee nicks in A2 at 25 degrees.
Could be due to this. However, I have a lot of LieNielsen tools in A2 and used them for 7 years sharpened to 30 degrees and never had an issue. Like others have said, they are a solid company. If you give them a call, they will likely have you send them back and sort it out. I've had a few things I've needed their help on (mostly because of me) and they were always more than fair on taking care of things. Lee Valley (who now owns Hock) has always had good customer service and the one time I got a few damaged clamps in the mail from them, they took care of me.
Absolutely. But I hate returning things. If I can fix an issue with two minutes of sharpening, I figure I'm way ahead of the game.
No offense to the original poster, but we never know with new posters what kind of experience and skill level they are. Or what their pickiness and expectation levels might be. So some of our responses always have to start at the most basic. If one of the folks with long experience here asked about the same issue, I'd just say yeah, send it back.