Replies

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 21, 2003 04:36am | #1

   BG

      You ask an interesting question of which I had never given any thought. I have a set of 6 older Marples (from the good-ole days) and just purchased a set of Ashley Iles shorties for fine work. I have a range of mortice chisels up to timber-framing size.

      I use the majority of them as I do projects from very small to very big. I had never given much thought to which I used at a given moment. I just select the appropriate size for the given job. I have no guidelines that you mentioned but just pure instinct.

      I have never thought of chisels like a set of golf clubs. With a 9 iron I expect 115 yards, 8 iron 125 yards, etc., etc., etc... I just see the job and go for the chisel that seems proper. No real thought processes or mathematical calculations. Just rely on instinct and what's worked before.

   Regards...

   sarge.jt 

   Proud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   BG | Nov 21, 2003 02:45pm | #5

   Sarge,

   The golf analogy is a good one and speaks to the heart of my chisel query.  It's true, you could play a round of golf with a 3 wood, 5 iron and putter....and 3 dozen golf balls.  Golf experience has taught you better control and outcomes are achieved by varing the tool and maintaning a fairly consistant swing....same speed, arc, follow through, etc. Also, of course, while the distance may dictate a specific club...the lie of the ball and the required trajectory often determine selection.

   Larry has provided us a perspective that can help explain some of those instincts of yours.  I like those shorties you bought...and there is probably a good chance you'll never rap those things with a mallet very hard.  I don't know what bevel they came with...but I would think something in the 20-25 range might even enhance there paring qualities...if that is the way you'll use them... 

   I guess the other question is do I want or need a tool that I will use for paring so gosh darn hard...or maybe a bitr softer that can take a quick but frequent honing?  

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 21, 2003 08:11pm | #6

   BG

      The Ashley Iles American Pattern are bevel-edged. I set the angle at 25 degrees or slightly lower as they are used for paring in essence. They are sockets so they will take a light pounding. But I don't pound them. At a very low angle you will roll and edge regardless of how good the steel is if you pound to heavy. I set mortice chisels between 31* and 35* degrees. I start with 30* and see if the steel will roll. Move up in degrees slightly till it won't and add another 1*. Between 31* and no more that 35* is what I shoot for. Mortices require a steeper angle to take that heavy pounding to keep from rolling.

     I use lower angle standard bench chisels for paring deeper joints and the shorties for small, fine work. Mortices for mortices and I don't have any long paring chisels. I don't have that many needs for them. If I found a need, I would go buy the one I needed and add if another need arose for another size that long.

   Have a good day...

   sarge.jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   lwilliams | Nov 21, 2003 05:54am | #2

   BG,

   I have three drawers full of chisels that sit just behind me at my bench. How do you define special purpose? Many are carving chisels, bench gouges, or mortise chisels but there are a lot more. I also have firmer and bevel edge chisels, paring chisels and some butt chisels. Some long and some not so long. A long chisel will tell you when you're working plumb to your work by its balance while short chisels offer more control for fine trimming. Paring chisels or those I use for some paring operations have an acute bevel while those is make heavy cuts with have a more obtuse geometry. For instance, I have two old chisels 7/8" that look very similar and are the same length. One is ground and honed at 23º and the other ground at 30º but honed about 33º. I use a mallet on the obtuse one to make some deep sinking cuts I use often. The one honed to 23º has an edge that would crumble under a mallet but leaves a near perfect surface on another cut I make frequently, cross-grain chamfer cuts.

   Cutting geometry, chisel design and type, length, type of handle (socket or tang) all have a lot of impact on how a chisel works and what it does well. Chisels are pretty versatile tools and can do amazing work when they're designed and tuned for specific tasks. Back in my construction days I worked with guys who would have one chisel and it generally looked like it was fresh from chiseling the bumper off a truck. I couldn't work that way.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 21, 2003 10:49am | #3

   Larry

      That was probably the most excellent summary of why there are various chisels and the capability of modifying each to do various task I have ever seen written.

      Well done and that summary should be an "eye-opener" for many people reading it. Some may and some may not. Some go combo-blade and some go rip, cross-cut and fine cut and don't mind taking the time to change them to get more precise results. IMHO.. Others may vary. ha..ha..

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   BG | Nov 21, 2003 02:22pm | #4

   Larry,

   That is great information, just the kinda thing I was looking for to bring a bit more clarity into the topic.  I'm not too keen on buying sets of chisels because my tendency is to be like your friend from the old days...the bumper remover.  Your comments shed a whole new perspective on the issue.

   Can I pick at your knowledge base with another question?  Chopping with a 7/8" wide chisel is harder than a 3/8" wide chisel....less psi..that sort of thing.  Do you have criteria for choosing the width of the chisel?  thanks