If you have seen the new Tools & Shops, then maybe you saw the article on the different types of chisels.
If I want a set of bench chisels and pairing chisels, what brands, makes, models, etc., do I want — and why?
Thanks,
Alan – planesaw
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Replies
Alan
As the article indicates, there are different types of chisels for different types of tasks. If you're looking for a good bench chisel, I can personally recommend Two Cherries chisels. They're hard, so they take a little longer than most to sharpen, but they also hold an edge longer, so it's a good trade off, in my opinion. They're also pretty flat, so you can pare with them, thus eliminating the need for both types.
I do a lot of hand work, so I have 4 different sets of chisels, but I wouldn't recommend that route if you're just getting started. Mine have been accumulated over quite a while.
Jeff
my two cents is buy a good set that feel comfortable in your hands.
when i bought my 1st chiesels, i thought i got a deal on some japaneese carbon chiesels with the metal hoops on the ends. they are so un-comfortable on my hands when doing hand work that i now own a second set and use my first set for mallet work.
get ones that feel comfortable to you. that to me is the best set.
Best is pretty subjective, depending on what you intend doing with them, and your personal preferences.
Lie-Nielsen makes some good socket chisels that I haven't used, but if there is a brand name that I would rely on that is it.
I have a set of Barr cabinetmakers chisels that are tough and very good, if a bit on the bulky side.
There are a host of Japenese chisels that will take a fine edge, albeit a bit prone to chipping. Others can opine on the differences between blue steel and white steel and the like.
I also have a number of older chisels. Buck Brothers "cast steel" chisels are excellent, and fairly widely available on E-bay. Just make sure that you can tell from the pictures that the back is not pitted. Other good older ones include Charles Buck, Swan, Witherby. These are the best bang for the buck, (sorry). They will most require flattening the backs and honing, or grinding and honing, but except for the few top models, such as named above, modern chisels will also require the same flattening of backs and honing.
Thanks for your thoughts. Probably like most of you, I have a set I bought new and a collection of odds and ends of chisels. I have primariliy used a number of used Stanley 750s and a new set of Sorby bench chisels. Both generally seem to have been effective.
I am not a full time woodworker, and I do know that a skilled craftsman can do more with a few tools than a poor craftsman with a lot of the best tools.
But, that being said, I do relatively skilled work and don't want the tool I am using to hold me back.
I really liked the article and the explanations of the different and correct names for the various styles.
Part of the purpose for my question is that as I can, I would like to simplify the number of tools (in this case, the chisels) to a set of bench, pairing, and mortise chisels.
With that in mind, do you have any specific recommendations, and the whys that you would recommend specific brands?
Thanks,
Alan - planesaw
Planesaw,
I've got an assortment of chisels, like you, picked primarily for their specific functionality and characteristics/feel. I'm not a big fan of sets because too many tools go underutilized and just take up space. On the other hand if I see a Witherby, 750, etc. at a tag sale..
To your question, however, I've been thinking for some time that carving chisels need to be included so that skills can advance...of course I've never seen those at the tag sales.
Quartersawn and BG,
Thanks for your thoughts. I have been thinking about the L-N. I don't need to spend the money, but used 750s on ebay, along with other older chisels, are costing almost as much as the L-N. I still find some 750s, Buck, and others occasionally at garage sales, antique shops, etc. and pick them up if they are old new stock or very cheap.
Of course, if they have been used then I have to put time in cleaning, grinding, honing, polishing, etc.
Sometimes I get as much enjoyment out of restoring (for use) an old tool as I do in building something. But, I am trying to spend less time restoring old tools and more time building something.
Any others passing by are welcome to add their 2 cents.
Thanks,
Alan - planesaw
Planesaw,
I know what you mean..I've seen 750 for $50 ea. and Everlasts at $100 ea....way too much. I bought my 750 for $.50 and the Witherby's at about $6-8 ea...made new handles
BG,
I have a 'set' of stanley chisels maybe 20 years old. I found that there were a couple of sizes that I tended to use for heavyier work with a mallet, these ar the ones that match mortices and othe joints for stcok timber sizes. The others seem to have become reground to a lower bevel and have very flat backs - used for paring.
Not a deliberate process, just seems to have evolved that way as an alternative to trying to find a 24*7 tool store when I needed a different chisel.
Dave
BG,
Yes, it is routinely my temptation to buy a full set of whatever since I may never know what I might need, and frequently it is a better price by the set.
But, I am slowly learning that I don't always need a set. It is probably experience that helps us realize what we need and what we don't. Thankfully, we can get rid of non-essentials through ebay.
Alan - planesaw
The Lie-Nielsen chisels are probably the best made product available. If you want some, best get your order in....they are currently 4 months back ordered. (my order from mid-July is still incomplete). This has been true since they were announced. Actually, the backlog has gotten worse. I did see a set in a Woodcraft store not long ago. They blow away any other new bench . For heavier work, the Barr chisels are great, but even more expensive. I do not care for the design of the Two Cherries product, but I hear it is well made. Older Blue Chips are fine for most work.
quartersawn
I hate to bring you up to speed here, but you're in for a surprise with the LN chisels, and it's not a good one. From the sounds of your post, you haven't gotten yours yet. I know 3 guys who have all sent theirs back. They don't hold an edge, and require constant, and I mean CONSTANT sharpening. A good friend who lives close by actually brought them over to my shop to see if he was doing something wrong. I couldn't even chop dovetails for ONE drawer with a chisel without having to hit the stones.
I personally own over 20 different tools from LN (and the list will grow in a month), and was extremely disappointed with their chisels, for the 1st time ever with one of their products. I also remember some grumbling from several members here about the exact same problems.
I posted this only because your recommendation was so strong, and it sounded like you hadn't even used them yet.
Jeff
I have not used my chisels extensively, but have had no problems so far. My most common wood of choice, white oak should give them a good test. A recent set of Sorbys went back because they couldn't handle any kind of chopping without ending up looking like a saw blade. I am puzzled by your comments, knowing the specs of the product and how well that steel does in their plane irons. Two questions come to mind: If the product is flawed, how come the woodworking world hasn't discovered this to date? Virtually every review has been extremely favorable. TLN also is very attentive to quality issues, and I can't see him allowing problems to continue. Second, why is there a 16 week back-order on their chisels if they are so crappy that three randomly shipped sets failed to perform? Surely there must be hundreds of other L-N chisels out there that fell short of expectations. Despite what you have said, the chisels remain about the only L-N products that cannot be obtained in a week by picking up the telephone. You didn't mention if replacement chisels had cured the problems. If that was the case, then there might be some credibility to the quality control issue. What remedy was suggested by the maker?
Please don't mistake my comments as any kind of personal attack. I feel that statements as strong as yours just need to have some tempering added for balance.
quartersawn,
I think Jeff is just reporting what went on here last year as people received their LN chisels. They were very disappointed, it seemed they held an edge about as well as the Sorby's. What is not clear is if the LN chisels were in or out of spec at that time or if changes have been made. It seems pretty clear from this, and other discussions about chisels, it's different strokes for different folks...and the only thing to get excited about is a bargain price for the same functionality. For instance, I love the Sorby's for paring..but if I wanted a chisel for chopping I'd be disappointed.
Quartersawn
First of all, I don't take anything around here as a personal attack, unless you personally attack me!! LOL!
I was simply informing you of what went on around the knots about a year ago when LN first came out with their chisels. Personally, I love LN tools. I've come to rely on their tools in the shop for my daily work. I think that, in most cases, they make the best hand tools available without spending 2-3 thousand bucks apiece for hand planes from guys like Holtey. That being said, I have no idea if it was an initial quality control issue that has been solved, or if the problem still exists. When I need a new tool, I'd never never wait weeks or months for the maker to deliver it to me. I'd simply find another solution to my need.
I have 3 sets of chisels. A set of Two Cherries, which are terrific bench chisels for the money. I've got a set of Iyoroi japanese bench chisels which I have ground for paring, and my dovetail chisels are a super fine (and super expensive) set of Nishiki Umeki Ouri (japanese dovetail) chisels which cost me 650 bucks for 6 chisels. Worth every penny, as I can complete an entire set of dovetailed drawers for a large project without having to re-sharpen them. They're made from 200 year old boat anchors and blue steel, laminated so many times that you can actually see the lines. However, I can't recommend them to folks here cause' they'll all think I'm nuts for spending the money!!!
Good luck with the LN chisels, as I hope they've solved their initial problems with the product.
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks for the clarification and extra information.
Mike - Quartersawn
Thanks to all for the informative posts! Very useful to a beginner such as myself.
-robert
For anyone's information: I bought one of the first sets of LN chisels...was one of the first to receive them. As things worked out, I hardly used them for almost a year. However I did use them enough to notice that they didn't hold an edge too well. After getting back into the shop, I really tried to use them and was totally disgusted with their durability. In addition, the handles had shrunk and no matter how much I pounded they wouldn't stay into the sockets. I emailed the company and they said to pack them up and send em. I did, they paid for the shipping. I soon received a new set that do hold an edge. I built a set of twelve chairs and a large dining table and honed them once. I'm now chopping dovetails into ash, and they seem undaunted. The bevel is 30 degrees.I'm satisfied with these chisels performance. My only "complaint" is they seem too small for my hands which are large but not beefy. But I've also thought the handles may be too slick. (they've some sort of lacquer finish) So I might strip the finish and apply an oil type or simply make new handles that are a bit bigger. If anyone is concerned with the quality of the chisels, rest assured.
The finish on most of the L-N wood pieces is just a wipe-on varnish with a light buffing on a wood-buff wheel with wax after (see the Beall Wood-Buff system). If you don't care for that smooth feel, it is easy remove or even refinish your way. Personally, I like it, but find that its not too lasting on the plane handles because of sweat, etc. It's easy to restore with a quick buff, if you like to keep them original looking.
Thanks for that good explanation of what must have been an early production problem.
While we're on the chisel subject, how does one remove those socket chisel handles without destroying them? I see they now make some long handles for $7 ea.
Gosh, I'm not sure what is the best way to remove a handle. I've never had to face that task except for a broken handle I was replacing. I think I'd clamp the chisel (the business end) into my bench vise and clamp one of my wood hand screw clamps onto the handle. Then twist and pound a bit. It should come out relatively easily.
To remove the handles of socket chisels (at least Stanley's) hold the metal with the wood handle up. Have in front of you a piece of wood on your bench, table or other solid surface.
Now, like you are hammering with the side of the handle, hammer the side of the wood handle down on the wood. Shouldn't take but a whack or 2 or 3 for it to come loose.
Alan - planesaw
Heat the socket carefully with a propane torch, and the air trapped by the handle will expand and it'll pop right outta there.
Keep your hand on the handle and twist as you heat, as heat alone could easily put out a window when it pops.“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
Bob,
I easily trust that heating it with a torch will work, but, I would think one could easily risk changing the tmper of the steel. Is that correct? And, a couple of whacks (non damaging) will work just as easily, and without a torch.
Alan - planesaw
Whatever works. I just avoid hammering to save the handle when I can.
Sockets weren't tempered, which facilitates easy repair. That heat has a long way to go down the chisel before it gets to the 600 degrees ir takes to ruin the temper.
If worried about heat, simply wrap a wet rag between where you are heating and where you want protection,
“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
Edited 11/27/2005 5:16 pm by BobSmalser
Bob,
Thanks for the info. How much of a Stanley 750 was tempered? What does it take to temper (or re-temper) one?
Alan - planesaw
They were tempered almost all the way to the socket.
Common high-carbon tool steel can be annealed and retempered almost an unlimited number of times. Basically, the steel is heated red, then quenched, then reheated in an oven to a lower temp to remove some of the hardness.“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
Bob,
Echoing Phillip's post, just before this one, how do you "blue" a piece of steel? I have a couple of old Stanley bevel squares where the blade was originally blued. Now partially coroded, slight rust, etc. Would like to "restore" to at least clean and smooth. Not "restore" to original specs, so to speak.
Maybe we need to start a new topic on bluing.
Thanks again for your info,
Alan - planesaw
I phosphate blue all my tools for rust resistance. It also hides rust staining in older tools.
For old tools, treat them with phosphoric acid metal prep - Jasco/Home Depot among others - then buff and blue with Brownell's Oxpho Blue from Brownells.com.
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Phosphoric acid doesn't hurt the steel and leaves an iron phosphate coating in all the rust pits, where the old tool always rusts again eventually because those pits trap moisture.
Don't use sporting goods store cold blue, it isn't the same thing as phosphate blue made only by Brownell's.
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Wipe them off with an oily rag after using for the day and they'll never rust again.
And I'm afraid I don't have any brand recommendations for you as all my chisels are prewar and I didn't spend enough time using the photoshoot models to have much to say about them.
“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
Edited 11/27/2005 5:19 pm by BobSmalser
Bob,
Once again I thank you. Specifically this time for the info on blueing (or is that bluing?).
Your article in FWW on chisels probably is already becoming what will be the reference article on chisels. Thanks for taking time to prepare such an article.
Alan - planesaw
Bob,
WOW!!!!! You know, there are times I can add 2 plus 2 about a dozen times and still not come up with 4.
About 10 years ago I began getting serious about improving my woodworking skills and obtaining the quality of tools I would use. Although I am far from the skilled people I read about, I know enough to not want the quality of the tool I am using to stand in my way. That doesn't always mean the most expensive tool, but I would rather have one high quality tool than five pieces of junk.
I started to learn about planes. I bought, restored (to very good user quality), and sold a couple hundred planes. I found I learned a lot about them and was able to determine what maker, size, and shape, would be the ones I would use.
Now I am doing something similar with chisels. I have been diligently reading whatever articles come along about chisels to try to determine what are the basic 2 or 3 types and brands I should try to have on hand for the various projects I might do. I have bought at yard sales, auctions, wherever, about a hundred chisels and cleaned, sharpened, polished, honed, etc.
And (2 plus 2 equals 4) I now realize you are the author of the article I referred to in the first message of this thread. Wow! I am honored to be "talking" with you.
Let me say "thank you" for the definition of terms of the different types of chisels. The more I read through the various catalogs it seems as if I get more confused. Particularly when I see manufacturers call what appears to be similar shapes by different names.
I had already determined, basically, that I wanted a good set of bench chisels for all-around work, some paring chisels, and some mortise chisels. I don't do any timber framing so I don't need anything that heavy. I have a number of Stanley 750s and 720s that I have picked up at garage sales and auctions, a set of Ashley Isles bevel edge chisels, and a few Sorby registered and sash chisels.
My intent is to now decide on what I want, get them, and sell all the others. I saw your recommendations for starting showed Two Cherries and Sorby. What would you recommend for the next level of quality above those?
Thanks, again, for the article and your time.
Alan - planesaw
I can think of 3 FWW articles that would help in this discussion. The relatively recent bench chisel review compared a number of chisels and essentially chose (surprise surprise) the hardest and most expensive. Japanese chisels were 1 and 2 as I recall and Hirsch was 3. But an earlier article, reprinted in a compliation (FWW on hand tools?) did essentially the same analysis but arrived at a different conclusion. Softer chisels do dull quicker, but they are also easier and faster to sharpen. So which chisel is actually more productive? In the end, as I recall, the author suggested choosing a chisel with the balance and handle of your choosing. That article was written some time ago, and its possible junky chisels have gotten worse in that time. While I’m sympathetic to the point of view, I think there are chisels that are so soft that they should be avoided. I prefer a chisel that can get me through an entire day’s work before it needs rehoning. My Hirsch chisels can go several days, but I hate their handles and metric blade sizes. But make no mistake about it. The first hurdle you should jump is the frequency of honing issue. In my experience, Hirsch are hard, Sorby and Marples are soft, but that alone doesn’t make them useless.
Garret Hack wrote an article recently on chisel technique. You should go back and read these articles for yourself- maybe someone will post issue numbers for these. As I recall Hack’s usage focused on paring joints created by other tools. If this is what you have in mind, I think any chisel with a comfortable handle will do. You rarely need a specific size if you are paring. Hack’s article is good, if only in that it defines a set of operations you can do with a chisel. For most woodworkers, these are all they will ever do with their chisels.
Here’s the kicker: As soon as you cross the line where you want to do more with your chisels, Hack’s methods and the chisels that performed them adequately quickly conspire to limit your efforts. On my side of the line, chisels don’t just adjust features, they create them. In the production of a hand made carcass, I have a chisel in my hand nearly all day for several days straight. If this is what you are doing or want to do, its helpful to recognize the limited scope of Hack’s article. Moreover, because people who work by hand are so rare, their views are rarely represented, so the majority opinion on chisels MAY not apply. So my second tip is to find out what you are really going to do with your chisels. I need specialty chisels with very specific sizes and I’m quite particular about their handles.
So where does this leave you?
1) You need a certain minimum hardness. If you are a part timer, a hard chisel may or may not be advantageous. I personally resent interrupting my work to sharpen. If you only have a one hour in a day when you can chop dovetails, maybe you need hard chisels. If you have more flexibility, maybe a cheaper chisel and more of them is a better choice.
2) Know that your choice and your technique are linked to your usage. If you are going to pare joints, you don’t need the 7/16”, 1/2”, 5/8”, 3/4” chisels. You only need these when you slave your joinery to your tools as I do.
I went from an old set of Freud chisels, which were garbage, to Two Cherries, which are not. The diference is the steel. Two Cherries, Ashley Iles, Lie Nielsens, all hold edges much better. One thing new tools have over the much older ones is tool steel today is far superior. So what made me go with Two Cherries? The handles. I have small hands, and they felt great. I have one Ashley Isles carving chisel, and never use it, because the handle is much too big. I prefer the Two Cherries for bench chisels, but don't like their carvers, as the Pfeill handles feel better in my hand.For paring, I ahve a couple of Japanese chisels, with longer handles, and prefer those. My mortising chisles are Sorby, and needed a lot of machining to be square. I also filed the handles down on the edge to square--rounded handles look better but are not as good for taking a mallet blow.
If you want bench and paring chisels, without going broke, my recommendation would be to spend some time at flea markets, etc. Of the older brands, all have their favorites. For me, the older Stanley 750's are great in terms of feel, and the steel is just fine. Run of the mill, to some extent, but still fine. For example, I have a 1/2" 750 that is sort of my go to guy for when I just need to quickly grab a chisel. Great edge retention. But, my 3/8" is quite soft and won't hold an edge for beans. Run of the mill; used only when needed.
As to paring chisels, my preference is T.H. Witherby. These can get spendy on ebay, but you will find them among the junk from time to time. I rarely pay more than $10 for a used chisel. I find that at a 20* angle, the Witherby's hold their edges as well as any, and better than most. Swan's are uniformly good as well, but for me they have been more rare to find reasonably priced. Old Buck's are good also, and much more available. And, Butcher's have good steel also. Old Stanleys, including the 720's, have fine steel as well.
Just watch for a pitted back; the bevel side is unimportant at initial purchase as grinding a fresh bevel is always needed anyway. Also, if you are a bit lazy, watch for a crowned back. My theroy is that the oldtimers used oilstones for sharpening, and they became bellied in the center, with the result that lapping ended up making that same crowned shape on the back, which can take a lot of work to fix.
If you are a rust bucket sort of guy, then over time you will buy a "set" of sorts, at different times. And, if you see one well priced that is for you a duplicate, it is wonderful trading material.
Alan
http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com
Alan Turner,
Great information. I appreciate the detail and specifics. I like the 750s I have and have generally found them quite good. The cost of 750s, 720s, Witherby, Buck, etc., on ebay is typically very high compared to flea markets, garage sales and many antique stores and antique malls.
And, thanks for pointing out the "crowning" possibilities on the back. Although I polish the back of ones I buy to use, I had not thought to check out potential crowning problems.
Thanks for the help.
Alan - planesaw
My chisel experience and knowledge are woefully lacking so be take this for what it's worth. The best chisel in my collection is a Narex from Hartville Tool. Seems like a good chisel compared to my cheapies and seems like a good value, but I've never used any of the high end chisels. Anyone else ever try the Narex?
I bought a set of Narex chisels over a year ago on the recommendation of professional woodworker. I was skeptical because of how cheap they are, but figured 40 bucks for six chisels wasn't much of a risk. Their backs were flat out of the box and only needed a few minutes of honing before putting them to work. I have some old Defiance socket chisels, some old Stanleys and a couple of Sorby sash chisels. The Narex run rings around them. They take and hold an extremely sharp edge. I mostly use them for paring, but have an extra 25 mm that I use often for mallet work and it has stood up well. I find the handles comfortable enough.
I wrote the article you refer to, and read all the other FWW chisel articles as research.
Personnally, I much prefer drop-forged prewar chisels to modern, cast chisels as the best compromize between edge-holding, ease of sharpening, and price.
Here's what I wrote on them that couldn't be included because of space:
Should I buy older, used chisels?
Depends. For newcomers it can be problematic, as you need good tools to use now but have not yet acquired the skills needed to rehabilitate abused antiques into something useful:
If you already have good grinding and honing skills and can also make handles, then flea markets and local and on-line tool auctions are an inexhaustible source of top-quality, high-carbon tools; often at prices less than you’d pay for the equivalent quantity of raw tool steel. Of course, you are trading your labor and rehabilitation skills for the money you save – and the labor can be considerable. I’ve done a bit of this at various auctions for myself and for tradesmen friends who don’t use computers, and I’ll share what I’ve learned.
As long as the chisel is old, factory-made, and intact with good length remaining, I’m not too concerned about condition short of severe pitting. For me, blade backs are easily ground on the belt sander to flatten and remove pits, sockets can be repaired, steel can be polished and blued to hide rust staining, and handles are easily made on the lathe. Anything marked "Stanley", "Witherby", "Winchester", “James Swan”, "Chas Buck" or "L&IJ White" is generally going to a collector for too high a price unless they are part of large, handleless lots. Older (not newer) Greenlee and Buck Bros, New Haven Edge Tool, Ohio Tool, Crossman, DR Barton, Underhill, Union Hardware, Jennings, Sargent, GI Mix, Shapleigh Hardware, Eric Anton Berg, Dickerson, Gillespie, Dixon, PS&W or PEXTO, Robt Duke, Fulton, Merrill, Butcher, Stiletto, Hibbard OVB, Simmons Keen Kutter, Lakeside and several other old makers and hardware store brands are every bit as good as the collector prizes and are much less expensive. Most unmarked chisels of that era were usually made by one of the above makers for a hardware distributor and are also generally excellent.
The only really poor socket chisels I've observed are newer Craftsman (older socket Craftsman were often made by Greenlee) of shiny, chrome-vanadium steel, some "Eclipse" brand and the occasional Stanley Defiance that refuse to take an excellent edge. Also, used tool dealers rarely know their wares well, and you have to look at each and every listing in detail to find what you need.
“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
Previous post didn't take....here's the correction:
Should I buy older, used chisels?
Depends. For newcomers it can be problematic, as you need good tools to use now but have not yet acquired the skills needed to rehabilitate abused antiques into something useful:
If you already have good grinding and honing skills and can also make handles, then flea markets and local and on-line tool auctions are an inexhaustible source of top-quality, high-carbon tools; often at prices less than you’d pay for the equivalent quantity of raw tool steel. Of course, you are trading your labor and rehabilitation skills for the money you save – and the labor can be considerable. I’ve done a bit of this at various auctions for myself and for tradesmen friends who don’t use computers, and I’ll share what I’ve learned.
As long as the chisel is old, factory-made, and intact with good length remaining, I’m not too concerned about condition short of severe pitting. For me, blade backs are easily ground on the belt sander to flatten and remove pits, sockets can be repaired, steel can be polished and blued to hide rust staining, and handles are easily made on the lathe. Anything marked "Stanley", "Witherby", "Winchester", “James Swan”, "Chas Buck" or "L&IJ White" is generally going to a collector for too high a price unless they are part of large, handleless lots. Older (not newer) Greenlee and Buck Bros, New Haven Edge Tool, Ohio Tool, Crossman, DR Barton, Underhill, Union Hardware, Jennings, Sargent, GI Mix, Shapleigh Hardware, Eric Anton Berg, Dickerson, Gillespie, Dixon, PS&W or PEXTO, Robt Duke, Fulton, Merrill, Butcher, Stiletto, Hibbard OVB, Simmons Keen Kutter, Lakeside and several other old makers and hardware store brands are every bit as good as the collector prizes and are much less expensive. Most unmarked chisels of that era were usually made by one of the above makers for a hardware distributor and are also generally excellent.
The only really poor socket chisels I've observed are newer Craftsman (older socket Craftsman were often made by Greenlee) of shiny, chrome-vanadium steel, some "Eclipse" brand and the occasional Stanley Defiance that refuse to take an excellent edge. Also, used tool dealers rarely know their wares well, and you have to look at each and every listing in detail to find what you need.
“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
Edited 11/26/2005 1:15 pm by BobSmalser
Edited 11/26/2005 1:17 pm by BobSmalser
Hello Bob,
Interesting post there: I like to polish up the odd rough diamond here and there as well.
You mention the blueing of steel parts-could describe the process you use for this? I am interested in this for use in plane making.Philip Marcou
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