Choosing lumber for BookMatched Panels
In the Power Tools & Machinery Forum, I mentioned wanting a top of the line bandsaw for resawing lumber for bookmatched panels. One of the replies noted that unless I had quartersawn boards, the amount of wood removed by the kerf would make the mirror effect a disappointment. So much so, the author would see that the panels were not mirrored. The indication I believe is that experienced woodworkers could see the attempt falls short unless I choose quartersawn lumber.
The kerf on the 1″Resaw King blade looks like maybe 1/16 inch — I couldn’t locate the spec. I have never done resawing. How often would someone wanting bookmatched panels be able to tell a difference in panels where 1/16 was removed in sawing and maybe another 1/64 in sanding?
Would you only use quartersawn lumber for these panels?
Replies
Cincinnati
Haven't you noticed that we are all nit pickers and sometimes we get so caught up in the micro that we lose sight of what it is we are actually doing?
Unless you are using a water jet or a laser to cut your wood (and you are not) you will need to use a blade. The thickness of the blade you describe, and the little bit that you sand and scrape off will still give a very respectable book match.
The best bookmatch is made using veneers that are sliced in a mill. These are ''shaved" after the log has been steamed and there is virtually no waste. If you are prepared to purchase a matched log from a hardwood mill (you will need to buy the tree), you will still need to deal with the saw cuts and the material that went up in dust.
In Quebec we say that it is not necessary to be more Catholic than the Pope. Cut your bookmatched solids, do your project (which will be spectacular when it is done - 1/4 cut, flat sliced or whatever you desire), and do not take any of us too seriously...we do that well enough on our own and do not need your help to do so. :-) JL
Edited 2/23/2007 8:10 pm ET by jeanlou
And a hearty Amen to that! Couldn't agree more.David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
David
I am guessing you mean the part about nit picking and taking ouselves too seriously. :-) Thanks, JL
No jeanlou, not just that(although your words about taking ourselves too seriously are right on), but all your advice was bang on!
DHam
It must of been one of my better days :-) Thanks JL
Just Checking! I didn't agree with the other advise, but I had never heard this and I wanted to find out before I got a surprise in the workshop.
Cin,
While quartersawn stock would yield bookmatched panels with the least variation from one slice to the next, it will (in my opinion) also give the least interesting grain pattern, unless you really like stripes. Quartersawn slices look almost the same whether bookmatched, or slipmatched. "Slabsawn" or plainsawn stock typically has a bolder "leaf" or "cathedral" grain pattern that looks good as a bookmatch. If there is a bit of curl or a tight knot off-center, it will accentuate the bookmatch. Now, it's true that the individual grain lines will not mate perfectly over the length of the panel due to the thickness of the stock lost to sawing and planing, but a little fudging or averaging over the length of the panel will get you close enough for jazz. When bookmatching panels, I usually try to get the stock out a little oversized (in length), so I can shift the slices a little in relation to one another, to improve the match.
Regards,
Ray Pine
Excellent advice Ray, especially about cutting oversized in order to better create the match. JL
It doesn't make sense to me to use quartersawn panels for bookmatching, as they wouldn't be much of a contrast or mirror image.
Attached is an example of bookmatched panels I made from old walnut found in a farmers barn, resawed with a Grizzly bandsaw.
Paul
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