Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Aug 23, 2011 07:11pm | #1

   If the two sides of the fence are not in line, it will be a problem anytime the work touches both. When doing molding work, like crown, you can build an auxillary fence and attach that to the metal fence,shim behind if necessary. The auxillary fence does a lot of great things. It will tell you exactly where the blade will cut and you can make a mark or add a stop so you can register each piece of molding in the same position. This really helps in cutting precisely to your mark. It can also be a zero clearance to help eliminate splintering on the cut. For molding work, I build an L shaped auxilary fence and base. For other work, you may just want a back fence. Both will limit the maximum capacity of the saw but that isn't much of an issue unless you are cutting stock that is at the maximum size. You could shim a 1/2" fence and straighten the problem without losing much capacity. If you make it long, you can clamp a stop for repetitive cuts. Excellent when cutting small pieces, like a crown return, that won't get sucked in and blown behind the blade.

   I've heard of bent fences and folks that have bent them back. It could be tricky since you can make it worse. Might be worth contacting DeWalt, they may be aware of a production fault. You could also buy a replacement fence. My wood fences are disposable. Once they get cut up, I build a new one. You have to adjust the depth cut limit of the saw so you don't cut all the way through the bottom of an L fence. When possible, I'll make all the left or right cuts before I move the saw to the other side just to keep from cutting the fence up early. When I'm trimming out windows, making drawer sides, cutting faceframes and many other tasks where numerous pieces all have to be the same, having a stop on the fence makes the work go fast and come out accurate. My measuring tape and pencil only gets used once. Huge time saver, no errors. The fence in the pic is ready for the scrap pile. If I were cutting bevels, I'd have to make a cut on that fence to accomodate the saw tipping.

   
1. 
   swenson | Aug 24, 2011 02:18am | #2

   The true secret to putting up crown moulding.

   Thanks for the input.  I found the true secret to putting up crown moulding.  After I did the sitting room I hired two pros to do the bedroom.  It took them a couple of hours.  The sitting room took me two days.  They had lots of great tricks.  Instead of hauling sixteen foot lengths up the stairs they just opened a window and handed them up.  In my shop I have a stand that goes eight feet on either side of the saw so I know how handy stops are for repetitive cuts.  The right side is not off a whole lot, that's why it took me so long to notice it. Now that I know, I'll use the left side when I need it to be perfect.  Mostly I just use it to rough cut  lumber before milling.  Thanks again.

2. 
   Quickstep | Aug 25, 2011 10:13am | #3

   I looked on DeWalt's website; it looks like a new fence is about $40. Since it looks like the fence comes off, could you take it off an level it by putting a long piece of sandpaper on a level surface like  a jointer table and rubbing it back and forth until they're co-planar?

1. 
   swenson | Aug 25, 2011 03:52pm | #4

   Good idea...

   I just might take a very light pass on the jointer. That will flatten it out... just kidding!

   Good idea about sanding it out. I have a very large hunk of flat granite that would work, but it might be that tightening it back on the saw will introduce some twist itself and that might be the original problem. I'm gonna wait and talk to DeWalt first. Thanks.