Replies

1. 
   Rob_Sp | Jun 04, 2022 07:40pm | #1

   The Cherry will darken with or without the shellac. Personally I would ditch the linseed oil varnish blend and just go with Shellac. If you use Zinsser amber make sure it is not out of date, it is waxy shellac, a 3lb cut so I would not use it under another top coat.
   If you insist on using under an oil varnish blend you should use Zinsser seal coat which is the dewaxed version in a 2lb cut, however it is a bit lighter than the amber. Again check the date on the can.
   A better choice would be to buy some dewaxed flakes, an orange shellac works best on cherry and mix your own. It is easy to apply by brush and pad, dries quickly with a finish unmatched by any of the oil varnish blends.

2. 
   user-7274013 | Jun 04, 2022 07:46pm | #2

   I think Chris uses 2/3 rds Tried and True varnish and 1/3rd Epifanes rubbed effect varnish. Tried and true is more than boiled linseed oil. Not sure about the shellac issue.

   Good luck

3. 
   john_c2 | Jun 04, 2022 08:21pm | #3

   Use Sealcoat, which is dewaxed.

   I wouldn't worry too much about adding color with the shellac. The sun will add all the color in pretty sort order.

4. 
   gulfstar | Jun 04, 2022 08:47pm | #4

   What makes you think Epiphanes has no UV blockers ?

5. 
   user-7274013 | Jun 04, 2022 09:16pm | #5

   The Epifanes product that Chris uses is for indoor use, so therein not a need for UV blockers. Plus the company states that on the web page lol

1. 
   jim_hall | Jun 05, 2022 12:26am | #6

   He did use 50/50 Tried and True varnish oil and Epifanes rubbed effect varnish on that particular candle stand in his video. When I tried that mix I found it got very sticky quick and became difficult to wipe off. Make sure and experiment on some scrap wood before applying to your project so that you know what to expect.

6. 
   chancito | Jun 05, 2022 05:19pm | #7

   Thanks to all, great comments. I’m going to try the shellac flakes and put a light coat of wiping varnish on just the arms where contact with alcohol might occur.

7. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Jun 06, 2022 04:18am | #8

   The whole protocol sounds too complicated by half. I never have been a fan of varnishing over shellac. I'm not 100% sure what the point is. If the properties of shellac are a bother, don't use it if after applying it you feel it needs "protection." Wax is the only thing I'd ever put over shellac, having gone to the trouble to apply it which isn't always easy.

   Garrett Hack did a finish article years ago -- 1/3 BLO, 1/3 turps, 1/3 gloss spar varnish. Do a search here on FW. The UV blockers in the spar varnish would be so diluted in this formulation I doubt seriously they would affect the natural darkening of the cherry. The UV blockers in any product don't work forever, either. And, depending on the placement of a piece in a room, cherry can end up looking pretty calico. Some evening out of the natural process might not be a bad thing.

   Or, you could just use Minwax Antique Oil straight out of the can. You'll get surface build, just enough, with application #2. It will certainly pop the grain and darken the wood like any long-oil varnish will. At application #3 and higher you're getting distinct surface build of varnish resins. A wax topcoat completes the process.

   Original Tried and True is a linseed oil and wax combo -- it's a nice finish. It can take a while to cure if you don't very explicitly follow the instruction to apply very thin coats and rub out thoroughly in-between. It has zero VOCs so is a great finish if you have to apply in your house or basement.

1. 
   jim_hall | Jun 06, 2022 12:42pm | #9

   FW Issue 126, Jan/Feb 1997, "Oil-Varnish Mixture is Durable, Easy to Apply" by Garrett Hack, may be the one you're referring to.