Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 10, 2006 05:34pm | #1

   Oral Surgeon?

   Not sure but a old metal worker here.. Alot of old drill presses have a slot for a wedge to drive them out.. I have no idea if yours has the slot..

1. 
   PhilC | Feb 10, 2006 06:43pm | #2

   No, it doesn't have a slot. It look it looks like all other drill presses. Iv'e tried hitting the chuck with a wood mallet to no avail.

    

   Help.

1. 
   highfigh | Feb 10, 2006 06:56pm | #4

   Look into the chuck and see if there's a screw at the top. Is this an imported Cummins? Let me know and I'll look at mine. If there's no screw, maybe you could use a slide hammer and pull it that way.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   hammer1 | Feb 10, 2006 07:04pm | #5

   Many chucks are threaded on to the shaft. Open the jaws all the way and look inside the chuck. There should be a machine screw at the bottom. This is normally a right hand thread. Remove the screw. The chuck is screwed on with a left hand thread. Many will put the chuck key in a hole and tap the key to get the chuck to start unthreading. Once it's loosened it should come off easily by hand.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   JohnWW | Feb 10, 2006 09:53pm | #6

   Phil,

   Please don't pound on the chuck, it almost never works and you can damage other, more expensive, parts of your drill press.

   A few questions:

   1.  Is this a large old American machine or a newer Taiwanese or Chinese made tool?  Is it a large machine or a small benchtop press?

   2.  Look on the chuck itself for some information.  Typically it will be on the part just above the jaws where the holes for the tip of the chuck key are.  It will probably show a brand name, the chuck's capacity i.e.: 1/16 to 1/2, possibly a part number, and something like: J 33 or 3/8-16.  Post this information, it will give a hint to the way the chuck is mounted.

   3.  Back off the stop nuts and then full extend the quill.  Are there a pair of matching small rectangular slots with rounded ends in the quill a few inches above the top edge of the chuck?

   4.  Is there a collar, probably 3/4 to 1 inch wide, on the quill immediately above the top of the chuck?  The collar may be knurled and will  have two to four shallow holes around 3/16 inch in diameter around its perimeter.

   5.  Look at the top end of the arbor shaft sticking above the pulley at the top of the machine.  Is the end of the shaft just plain, or is the shaft hollow, or is there a hex nut or some other type of fastening hardware on the top of the shaft?

   6.  Would it be safe to presume that you don't have the machine's manual or at least a parts sheet?

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

    

   Edited 2/10/2006 5:25 pm ET by JohnWW

1. 
   PhilC | Feb 11, 2006 08:03am | #7

   #1. The drill press is: Cummins Model # C114. Chuck capacity= 5/8". Spindle=MT#2 12 Speed Heavy Duty Drill Press. Cummings Tool Corp.,Chicago, IL. It is a bench top. However, it weighs a good 75-100 pounds. On the chuck itself is the following: Victor NO.8113C(this C is backwards) 16MMC100.  On a plate attached to the machine is the following: MFG. Date 1979. Serial # 99466. (Made In Taiwan)

   #3. After extending the quill I found 2 elongated slots with rounded ends above the top of the quill.

   #4. Yes there is a collar on the quill immediately above the top of the chuck. It is smooth with no holes.

   #5. The end of the shaft at the end of the quill with the pulley is hollow with some sort of nut inside.  It does have a collar attaching the pulley to the shaft. It may be threaded. I didn't try to move it.

   #6. I don't have a manual. I purchased this machine approximately 10 years ago from an estate sale.

   Actually the reason I want to get the chuck off is to try to replace one of the teeth that fell out.  I call them teeth. They are the movable pieces that hold the bits in place. The teeth do not look like they have broken.

   Thanks for responding.

   Edited 2/11/2006 12:04 am ET by PhilC

   Edited 2/11/2006 12:16 am ET by PhilC

1. 
   JohnWW | Feb 11, 2006 06:17pm | #8

   The two small slots in the quill are the secret to removing the chuck.  A tapered steel bar, called a drill drift, goes through the slot and, as you tap on it, the tapered edge of the drift will push down on the top end of the tapered shaft holding the chuck, releasing the shaft and the chuck attached to it.  Keep a hand on the chuck when you drive the drift, the chuck will pop loose suddenly. 

   If you are lucky you might have the drift in with any parts that came with the machine.  If you don't have the drift, give me the distance between the top of the chuck and midpoint of the slots I can tell you what size drift you need and a source for it, they only cost a few dollars. 

   The chuck probably isn't worth repairing, and may not be repairable in any case, since they often times can't be disassembled without special tools and parts for a repair probably aren't available.  Chucks however are standard, and you can get a reasonably priced replacement.

   John White

2. 
   PhilC | Feb 11, 2006 07:54pm | #9

   The distance between the top of the chuck and midpoint of the slots is 3.5 to 3.75 inches.

   What sources do you have for drfits and what chucks would you recommend?

   Thanks for all your help. This is a great website.  I have been a subscriber of FW for many years and this is one of your best ideas for the web ever.  Thanks again.

3. 
   lwj2 | Feb 11, 2006 08:49pm | #10

   Chuck drifts:http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=695320Jacobs type chuck (note that this is designed for lathes, but it's a MT2 shaft)http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=325-5187&PMPXNO=5819059Leon

4. 
   PhilC | Feb 11, 2006 10:47pm | #11

   Thanks.

5. 
   philip | Feb 11, 2006 11:49pm | #12

   When you have got the chuck and tapered arbor out of the quill you still need to get that chuck off the arbor-I suggest you skip that and get a matched chuck and arbor assembly. Jacobs keyless are great.Philip Marcou

6. 
   gb93433 | Feb 12, 2006 01:22am | #17

   MSC has a great supply of those kinds of items. Their website is http://www.mscdirect.com

7. 
   JohnWW | Feb 11, 2006 11:58pm | #13

   Phil,

   The distance between the chuck and the slot would suggest that your drill has a #2 Morse taper, which is common on that size drill press. 

   Enco, as already recommended, is a good source for parts, another place to go would be Grizzly.  Grizzly's part number for the drift is G9375, $1.75, and for a chuck their number H6204, $39.95, combined with a G1676 arbor, $ 9.25 would be the least expensive option that they have for a new chuck that matches the one you now have.

   John White

   Edited 2/11/2006 4:02 pm ET by JohnWW

8. 
   PhilC | Feb 12, 2006 12:33am | #14

   Thanks again. I think I will go with Grizzly. I don't use the drill press alot so Grissly will be my choice. 

   Another Though:

   I just can't believe the help I have received from you and all the readers.  I tried to research this project thru the internet with not much help.  I certainly will recommend this site to all.

   Thanks again

   Phil ( a partime woodworker of Shaker furniture and boxes.

9. 
   lwj2 | Feb 12, 2006 12:54am | #15

   Enco, as already recommended, is a good source for parts, another place to go would be Grizzly. Grizzly's part number for the drift is G9375, $1.75, and for a chuck their number H6204, $39.95, combined with a G1676 arbor, $ 9.25 would be the least expensive option that they have for a new chuck that matches the one you now have.
   *************************Hadn't thought about Grizzly, John, good idea. I tend to think of "drill press" and "metalworking" together, [hence Enco] which is silly, seeing that I use it on wood more often than metal.Phil, I should have said "Welcome aboard" so I'll do it now. Don't be a stranger, eh?Leon

10. 
    JohnWW | Feb 12, 2006 01:12am | #16

    Leon,

    Grizzly currently devotes over a hundred pages of their five hundred page catalog to machine tools and they are, in fact, a major distributor of metalworking tools and accessories.

    John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

    Edited 2/11/2006 5:12 pm ET by JohnWW

11. 
    lwj2 | Feb 12, 2006 03:11am | #18

    And now I'm really embarrassed.Thanks, John. I've always thought of Grizzly as a woodworking tool supplier, although I've been aware that they supply metalworking tools, it's never managed to register in what's left of my forebrain.Southbend, LeBlond, Bridgeport -- they register with me as metalworking.Leon

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 10, 2006 06:55pm | #3

   At the risk of sending you on a totally frustrating adventure:  if you don't get some input soon, try an advanced search in the Tools Forum and General Forum, use drill press chuck.  There was a long and very detailed thread not too long ago about this process.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

3. 
   wdrite | Feb 13, 2006 02:21am | #19

   Your drill press might have a chuck like my Shop Fox.  It is held on by a taper and a screw.  Open up the chuck and look up inside for a small screw going up into the spindle.  The purpose of this screw is to prevent the chuck from falling off when you use a spindle sander attachment or  anything that would require side pressure on the chuck thus breaking the friction holding the chuck on.