Replies

1. 
   sawdustdad | Jun 12, 2009 09:35pm | #1

   Depending on the finish required on the cut edge, this is entirely doable. Have you verified that the glued up counter top is really solid wood and not some laminate that looks solid? You could expose core material that would require you to re-laminate a new wooden edge. Watch out for fasteners in the countertop--you might have screws or nails that you could run into.

   I'm also assuming that you are cutting this counter top in situ rather than in the shop or that it is very large and unwieldy or involves corners. (hence the need to use the skill saw) and that you need a clean result for cosmetic reasons.

   Use can really use any sharp blade since the the cut surface will be more affected by the saw guide and technique than the blade. In other words, you are unlikely to get a cosmetically acceptable edge, regardless of blade used, without additional work. To clean up the edge, hand plane or surface with a flush trim router bit and guide template to get a smooth edge. Follow up with a scraper or sanding block. 

   An additional optional idea is to glue a new edge on after you've straightened out the counter top--and if you do this you could add a contrasting wood or open it up to all kinds of edge treatments. A wood that matches the cabinets perhaps? All kinds of possibilities...

    

1. 
   silkwj | Jun 12, 2009 09:50pm | #2

   thanks for the advice. i should have mentioned that i'm doing two of these, to butt together on the long edge to make a large table. it's definitely solid oak, just glued up. ill just get a fresh blade and go slow, then plane or sand if needed. thanks again.

2. 
   JMartinsky | Jun 13, 2009 12:51am | #3

   I think that "Sawdust dad" pretty much covered it. If I had to add something, it would be the following:

   1) Do NOT use a thin kerf blade. In general, I do not care for them, but for this application, I would definitely want a full kerf to minimize warpage.

   2) To get a really clean, vertical edge that is acceptable for joining, I would leave the countertop 1/8" or so over sized and then finish the cut with a router. I would use the following bit: model 106-0965 (see attached)

   http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v106-0202/ea_-_spiral_bits

   Best,

   John

3. 
   USANigel | Jun 14, 2009 02:12am | #4

   Use a ripping blade. Do not use a blade with lots of teeth as this will cause binding and burning of the cut. I would use no more than 24 teeth.

   Reason is the sawdust (looks like shavings) need some where to go to allow the tooth to continue to cut. That's the space in front of the teeth. Once this area is full the blade can't cut, than starts to jam causing the binding and sometimes burning.

4. 
   JohnWW | Jun 14, 2009 11:16pm | #5

   If this is a rip cut then you should use a sharp rip blade, not a combination blade.

   Also make the cut by guiding the saw with a long straightedge clamped down to the countertop. Make sure the saw's motor will clear the clamps before you start.

   Also make sure the edge of the saw's foot plate, the edge that will be running along the straightedge, is parallel to the saw blade otherwise the blade will bind in the cut.

   Don't starve the saw's motor by plugging it into a long small gauge extension cord. Don't cut slowly, go as fast as the saw will allow you to progress without bogging the motor down.

   Should work fine if you follow the above suggestions.

   John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007