I am having problems with blade deflection on my radial arm and miter saws. I am using Freud Diablo combination blades with blade stabilizers. I have checked for loose bearings and they seem to be fine. The blade deflects as it enters and leaves the wood causing a very slight crown on the wood. If I watch closely on the radial arm saw I can see the blade deflect as it enters the wood. I am getting this with new and newly sharpened blades. The fact that it is on both saws makes it harder to understand.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Deflection
Have you tried a different brand blade ?
SA
Blade Deflection
No I have not. I am using resharpened blades and may need to buy a new one as a reference.
I will change my normal modus operandi
and open my reply with questions that contain no humor or sarcasm ( so I am being serious here and do not intend to offend because I have seen skilled people make similar errors with power tool blades for direction of rotation ).
Are the blades put on the machines in the right direction ?
Second
Take a look at your blade storage practices. Maybe one side of the blade teeth are getting dulled by what they come in contact with when put away. When you pull the back of your thumb nail along the side of the cutting edge of the blades do they catch and dig into your thumb nail ? Does both sides of the blade feel about the same in this respect ? You may need to switch hands and use the opposite thumb nail on the other side. Alternatively you could use a piece of flat hard plastic in place of your thumb nail.
Hmmmmm
PS: what condition is the material you are cutting in? For instance if you have milled even one old dirty reclaimed board from a torn down barn etc. it only takes one hunk of grit or piece of hidden screw to knock the sharp points off one side of a blade and then the blade cuts toward the opposite sharp side of the blade.
Blade Deflection
The blade is on the machine correctly, stored correctly and only cuts new, clean wood. It may be a problem with my saw sharpening service. I will buy a new blade as a reference. Thanks for the reply.
I am not a fan of thin kerf blades, especially resharpened ones. Even with stabilizers, they are problematic. Unless you have power issues, I would use full thickness blades for the RAS and miter saw.
Thin kerf saw blades
Thanks, I'm starting to see the little problems the more refined my work becomes. Thanks for the info.
Not my choice of blade
I would not use that blade on a RAS or Miter saw. I believe that blade has a 15 degree hook angle, much to aggressive for those saws and not especially safe. The blade will want to race twords you on the RAS and also want to climb over the lumber if you feed too fast.
I would be going for one of Freuds Industrial series blades. The RAS and miter blades in particular that have a 0 or -5 degree negative hook angle.
Blade Deflection
Good information. I have had to watch the RAS with just the problem you described. I will try the different blades. Thanks
The Freud Diablo blades are thin kerf....usually ~ 3/32".... a full 25% thinner than 1/8" full kerf blades, which makes them a bit less stable given the right circumstances. You can always try switching to a good quality full kerf blade.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled