What is the best blade for plywood that will not splinter? I recently purchased a Forrest Woodworker II and it still splintered the hardwood ply during the crosscuts. Is my technique wrong or is it the nature of the blade? Is an additional blade for crosscuts necessary? I also purchased a Woodworker II for my table saw and it worked great, but not the circular saw.
IGIT
Replies
If you're not using a zero-clearance insert on your table saw, try that before buying a new blade. If you still aren't getting satisfactory cuts, go for a blade made specifically for plywood and laminates. I'm partial to Freud blades. Their LU98M would be the blade of choice. You can get them at Ballew Saw and Tool.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hello,
It blows my mind that there is a FWW II for 7.25 inch circular saws costing around $50. I love the circular saw but associate it with pressure treated lumber and building decks. For cutting plywood panels I use a $10 Black and Decker Hollow Ground Plywood blade with my circular saw. It advertises "For a satin-smooth finish in plywood, veneer and thin materials,.." It does minimize tearout for me. The "Hollow ground" aspect of this blade means that the kerf is thin and minimizes tearout. There is little set to the teeth. When glue gunk from the plywood builds up on it, clean with oven cleaner. Put a little wax on it. Good blade. You will like it better than your $50 blade for plywood and the circular saw. Another trick is to score the cutline (especially for crosscuts) with a marking knife, prior to the cut. Ed
Scoring the cut, great advice.
IGIT
putter
Masking tape works also, but I like Ed's scoring better. The masking tape I use when I use a fence set up 5" from the inside of my PC circular blade to where the base meets the fence. You can't see the line of cut, but you don't need to if the fence was set up properly. Still, scoring I think is a better mouse-trap in the big picture.
Mucho luck...
sarge..jt
putter
I will agree with Ed on the hollow ground. I first used one in 1972 when I got started WW. My old Shopmate circular saw was my TS as it was mounted under a 2' x 4' piece of plywood with a rectangular hole for the blade to show through. The hollow ground was the smoothest blade in those days before carbide and all the current innovations.
I prefer 60 tooth for plywood, if you can find it. It doesn't matter about high price here. I use an Oldham at $10 for chopping down sheets. When it gets dull, at $10 throw it away and get another one. Cheaper than sharpening. IMO, there is no one blade that is excellent in ever situation, regardless of how high priced it is. You match the blade to the particular job.
Good luck ...
sarge..jt
I concur with Sarge and Ed from Mississippi. I use a <$10 Oldham with fine results. Also good for plexiglass.
GJ
Plexiglass.... Hmmmm.... A new twist. I have never tried that one, but I will just so I might slip another trick up my sleeve after 30 years of acquiring cheap tricks. ha..ha..
Have a great day...
sarge..jt
Makita make a blade for cutting hardie planks. It came with the saw with dust collection built in. It has 28 teeth!! Part # a-90451 . It was fitted on the saw, so what the 'beep" try a cut. Works great!! In the last year I have sliced and diced over 100 sheets of birch and maple plywood with the first blade and have only just ordered two more for backup as no one stocks this blade save Mataki. The teeth have zero "hook" to them so very little lifting of the veneer. (bad news $ 45 )
Interesting thread, I put a teflon coated carbide blade on my 8" Black and Decker Contractor circular saw about 4 years ago and I'm still not satisfied with the results on plywood. Good fence, secure, planned cut, slow and easy, but not smooth and perfect edge.
I guess I need more toys! Roy
Roy
I'm working on a formula for splinter-free plywood in my basement, but until I hit "paydirt" looks like you need some new toys. ha..ha..
Have a great day...
sarge..jt
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