Well, I dragged out the old Craftsman circular saw yesterday to break down some plywood. It’s been a workhorse for 20 years, but whatever hubby did with it last time he used it took a toll. So, it’s time to consider getting a “Jamie Only” saw that can be coddled and live forever.
I’d like to find a Craig’s List bargain that’s in good shape, isn’t toooo heavy. My knowledge of options in this tool is limited to the fact that some are “worm drive”and that the really good ones come with a price tag. Your suggestions, tales of experience, and advice are sought….
TIA!
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Replies
i have a makita that i've been using for almost 2 years just about daily. it'll rip 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood at a time without really bogging down and after all the bouncing around in the back of the truck, and being dropped off of sawhorses it still works like new and the guide plate is still square to the blade. it looks beat to hell now but it still works great and i would recommend it to anyone. model number on the makita site is 5007FK but i think it is a newer model than the one i have.
In a previous job market I use to sell tools. Now I remodel and am trying to transition to cabinet work.
If you are just looking for a saw for rough shop use i.e. rough cutting sheet goods to size, trimming panels, etc. I would sugest a Porter cable 6 inch saw boss. I have one I use with a ply wood ripping guide alot. They can be pricey at around 130.00 but they are powerful and include a dust collection fitting which actually works pretty well when attached to the PC hose made for it, it weighs about 9 pounds.
The new Ridgid Fuego light weight saw is getting good reveiws. It is a 6 and a half inch saw. I think it weighs less than 8 pounds.
About all the pro models are comparable in weight and H.P. The full size Portercable also includes the dust fitting and with PC you have the option of a left blade or right blade.
Dewalt makes a comfortable saw as well as hitachi and Bosch. I have never used the Bosch with the non-metallic base plate but I hear it flexes more than some would like.
Most full size saws will weigh between 8 and 11 pounds. Worm drives are heavier but have their own advantages from the weight to the torque and the extra inches of cut the grip gives you.
You really don't need a worm drive for shop use though. They tend to be heavy and awkward when making a finish type cut on a table top for example, something that is to big to trim to length on the Tablesaw.
I would go to one of the box stores and handle as many brands as you can. Check out the blade configuration sight lines and grip feel.
I also research a particular model on amazon and try to get a feel for whether it will work for me or not based on the reveiws of people who have bought one.
Craftsman also has some models that would be great for part time use.
Hope this helps
Webby
Edited 9/21/2008 2:10 pm ET by webby
If the Craftsman isn't running because all you get is sparks when you squeeze the trigger, it could be that the brushes just need replacing in the electric motor, and they're cheap (and you can do it yourself with a screwdriver). If, on the other hand, you can't freely spin the blade with your hand (unplugged, obviously), then the bearings may be gone and it's time for the great trash heap in the sky for the tool.
Worm drives are great, heavy duty saws. However, something to think about is that they're typically used by contractors that put a lot of use on their tools. A Craig's list bargain might not be such a bargain if there's a lot of wear on the gearbox that might not be apparent without taking it apart. A good brand-name circular saw that a homeowner had might be a better deal.
The old Craftsman runs, but looks like it was buried alive for a few weeks, blade guard sticks, motor is noisy (always has been). Hubby's using it alot now and he's rough on tools, I just want to turn it over to him, and buy one for myself that I can take care of. A good time to make a step up to a better saw.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another poster mentioned worm drive saws. He (correctly) said that they are great and heavy duty.
But note that they are also heavy. So heavy in fact, that for the average homeowner, they might be a two-handed tool, since all of the weight is in front of the handle. With a "sidewinder" most of the weight is below the handle.
A good analogy would be lifting a sledge hammer. If you lift it by grasping near the head, then most people could lift it to chest-height. On the other hand, if you must grasp the end of the handle, and "curl" the head to chest height, even some rather strong men might feel the burn.
Worm drives are great saws -- but they're like grasping the sledge by the end of the handle.
You could watch for a craigslist offering of a sidewinder that has a magnesium body, but those are rare. More commonly, you'll find a saw with a plastic body (no tremendous sin there) that feels right in your hands.
And that will be the important factor -- how it feels to you.
Hmmmm, the weight sounds like a deal-breaker for me. Need to keep things reasonable. I looked at a few saws at HD today, but was running out of time to browse. Will hit Lowe's the next time I'm in that area.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
For light weight , why not a cordless? I really like my little Hitacvhi 18-V circ saw. You might want to check:
http://www.reconditionedsales.com for a reconditioned saw - just about any type. Their prices are better :-)
I've got a cheap Ryobi cordless for sawing up thin ply or even 1" rough Poplar boards to rough length. Need a good corded saw for 1/2" and 3/4" plywood cuts mostly.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I use a Porter Cable 423 Mag saw. This is the blade on the left side option and even though I am right handed, and use the right hand to saw, this puts the blade where I can see the cut easily. It has an adjustable port to put the sawdust in any direction you wish and is very light. I bought mine from a refurbished dealer on Ebay for $71.00 and love the saw. It is light, tough, and easy to see the cut line. They also make a version with the blade on the right. Right now CPO Porter Cable has this saw for $99.95 http://www.cpoworkshop.com/reconditioned_tools/saws/circular_saws/423magr.html
Just my solution to the light weight circular problem, but I think it is worth a look.
Bruce
I'd like to try one with the blade on the left. I've always found it quite awkward trying to line up a cut with the standard circular saw (blade on right). I like the idea of directing the sawdust, and the light. Will check it out!
Quite likely that I'd go with refurbished, I had such a good experience with the refurbished Makita impact driver+drill/driver set that I bought.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,FHB had an article on Worm drive saws a few months back. But you are correct that they are all heavy. The one that they deemed good for finish carpentry was the Makita for its quietness and lack of kick up. I personally have the DeWalt hypoid style saw. I liked the way it wasn't top heavy like the Skilsaws (which I suppose if you were always pointing it downward to cut, is an advantage), the Dewalt was lighter and felt more comfortable. That said, I almost never use my DeWalt since I got my Festool TS55. Have you looked at the 6.5 inch Porter Cable Saw Boss? Or maybe the cool 4.5 inch worm drive Porter-Cable 314 Trim Saw that Norm uses?
I'm thinking about the 6" PC Saw Boss. It looks like more blades are available now than in earlier years, Freud makes several. There are many options, and some time to decide, so I'm going to check the one local tool store, HD (again) and Lowe's, lay hands on for personal touchy-feely data.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 9/22/2008 3:19 pm by forestgirl
I have the PC and like it! Nice and lite for the work I do with it. No problems in the last 3 or 4 years!
Good luck with your choice,
John
Which PC, shippy? They make a bunch of 'em. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Am I missing something here? The presence of riving knives seems to have caused a degree of consternation.Is there a downside that I'm not aware of?
Not that I'm aware of.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
Riving knives on table saws are all the rage now, but they don't exist on American circular saws as far as I know. I don't think you're missing anything, it's just a foreign concept, so-to-speak. ;-)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Over here riving knives on tablesaws are legally required by EU Health and Safety regulations. Essentially this translates into you can get away with not using one but if you have an accident your employer is prosecuted and you are not eligible for health benefits related to the injury.I don't know if hobbyists are affected.
Hi FG, sorry about not including which one I have, geez, I guess since it's the one I have , it's the only one worth having! Ha. : ) Anyway, it's the little 6" saw boss, model 345. Can't say it would be great for big framing jobs and such, but for "normal", woodworking, it works very well for me. Nice and lite, pretty easy to control, and has enough power for anything I've used it for.
And hey, what happened to our summer? The cows here in Buckley had goose bumps!
John
Dewalt is about to bring their new saw from Europe over here. It is kind of a Fess knock off. It plungs, has some sort of knife, and as a track like Fess has. I played with it a bit (but they would not let me cut anything with it :( ) at the local Wood Expo a couple weeks back. Nice saw but the price was a bit up their. I think they were saying about $500 something with guide track.
As for the current saws. I am thinking about the PC saw with the left hand, and the Mag base. I think that is the 743? I forget, but someone above talked about it. I have played with that saw a bit and it seams to fit me. I am in the market for a new saw, as the old sear POS dies a year or two ago, the Dewalt 14.4 cordless just do not handle long cuts in plywood very well. and the Skill Saw has as of last week decided that it will NOT stay adjusted to anything like 90degrees to the blade. Anytime you set it down it WILL get out of alignment. So I am doing much the something you are FG.
Let us know what you end up with. I can make you a good deal on a used (looks clean) SkillSaw. :)
Doug M.
Earlier this evening I used my 36 year old Skil CS instead of the Makita to cut some 3/4 treated ply. Even with an old blade, that thing cut through the ply like a hot knife through butter. I'm not sure how they make them these days, but that old Skil still has some life left in it.
Skil offers a variety of saws, all the way from bullet proof to absolute junk.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
Don, I was surprised to see, at DSC today, a Skil right in line with the Makitas, Milwaukees and Porter-Cables. Must have been one of the bullet-proof ones but silly me I didn't give it a second glance.
Home Depot has many of their Ridgid tools marked down right now, their 7.25" saw looks pretty nice, but I'm tired of the sawdust that shoots out of the back of the saw right next to me. Looks a little like the Makita, but not enough to be identicle.
BTW, we used the impact driver today as we took the first step to frame the new deck. What a dream. I'm in "Makita Heaven" what with the ID and the SCMS.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I'm currently leaning toward the Porter Cable Saw Boss -- it's a 6" blade, but I figure if I need more power or depth, I can drag out the Craftsman. Doubtful if it'll happen more than once a year, as the Saw Boss will cut a 2x4 at 45 degrees. I really like having a dust nozzle that can be adjusted or hooked up to a vacuum (jeez, what a novel idea). I stopped at DSC, Inc., today (a local tool retailer) and was able to take a look at one, handle it. It's adjustable to tweak it to 90 degrees, the sight line is adjustable, it has stops and a spindle lock. And I like the left-side blade.
Only other thing I'd like to see on it is a depth-of-cut scale right on the saw so I don't have to bend over and look under the plywood when I set up. Yep, lazy.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
forestgirl,
I have the Porter Cable 743 and love it. I especially like the left mount blade (I'm right handed). It makes cutting a breeze, and it's pretty light. Check out this review for more details. http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/pc743.htm
lostcreek
Thanks for the link, Lost, I'll check it out.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Its too bad that pc stopped making this saw to make way for the Mag which in my opinion is a piece of crap compared to the 743. Porter Cable really dropped the ball on this. I have both the rh version of the 743 and the lh version of the Mag and there is no comparison between the 2
Forestgirl,
I'm lurking over here from Breaktime. I use a Makita 5007MG, mostly to breakup 4x8's into managable pieces for the tablesaw. It is relatively lightweight (Magnesium frame and base), has a cool LED headlight that is nice when working in a dim garage. Most importantly it is 7 1/4" which will give you the largest selection of blades. I've got a 28v Milwaukee saw I love, but the 6 1/2" blades are a pain to find.
And, it's almost 30% lighter than the 14-pound worm-drive saw I looked at today. May have to stick with the standard design, but this one has definitely improvements over the old Craftsman.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forestgirl,
You can get a reconditioned one from CPOMAKITA.COM for around a $100. I've used that site before and had good luck.
A worm drive is WAAAAAYYYYY overkill for what you need, not to mention scary heavy. Them west coast framers must be tough dudes to use one all day long.
Forestgirl,
Several years ago I looked at all the circular saws available and read all the saw tests with the determination that only a real tool turkey can generate.
What I came up with for first prize was the Dewalt DW384 The things I like about it is it is more adjustable than most for precision set up of the saw. It is a big saw for an eight inch but not heavy. Hard to go wrong with a Dewalt in my personal experience.
See the video :
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=5301
Also see the article in FWW
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=2659
I built the sacrificial cutting table shown in the article. In addition I throw a sheet of masonite on top and I have a regular table for working with upholstery or drawing full size drawings etc. I made all the joints with mortice and tenon because I have been known to do some really dumb things just to keep in practice. Wait. That didn't come out right but maybe you know what I mean.
If you have all the money in the world you might look at the Festool TS 55. FWW Sept/Oct 1998 p38. One thing it does is plunge cut. I have no first hand experience with that saw. Perhaps your local wood craft store will let you try it out if you take in some thing to cut up.
>Worm drive
Tends to be more of a macho macho man builder's saw. Slower, lots of torque for getting the cut done no mater how much stuff is binding up under the saw. Being primarily a rocking chair wood worker; again not much experience there but if you want to build up your forarms for the next body building event get a worm drive !
There are always exceptions to the rule here is a worm drive I really like : the Porter Cable 314. (buy the finer tooth blade for it). The store sales man insisted on talking me out of buyiing this saw ! I said I wanted it for cutting sheet goods and paneling. He said it wasn't designed for that.
It works great for that, it is how it is advertised and there is an artical in Woodwork magazine April 2003 p 71 demonstrating just how well it can work by Anthony Gudice (I tear up my magazines and stuff'em in file folders).
It wasn't because he wanted to sell me up to a more expensive saw; this IS an expensive saw. I went across the street and down the block and bought it. The former store is no longer in business. Gosh I wonder why?
I don't use these two saws allot but when I do they make me smile. I have my Dad's old Craftsman from the sixties in nearly perfect out of the box shape. Every time I use it it flexes and pinches my fingers and I go back to the DeWalt and PC. Nice stuff !
Edited 9/22/2008 12:51 am by roc
Edited 9/22/2008 12:55 am by roc
Edited 9/22/2008 1:05 am by roc
Edited 9/22/2008 2:28 am by roc
Thanks for the info and the links, Roc. Your model doesn't show up on Amazon, but I've been reading about another DeWalt and the Porter Cable Saw Boss. The DeWalt 364K gets really good reviews. I'm glad there's not hurry to acquire a saw, given the number of good choices available!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Roc mentioned a saw which can plunge cut. I assume that this means it does not have a riving knife.Bad idea IMO. I still have all my fingers but that was due to luck.
What hand held circular saw are you using that has a riving knife? Also I would think that kickback injuries from a hand held saw would most likely be to the leg not the fingers.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
The one in question is an elderly Black & Decker 5" saw.Most European Circular Saws seem to have riving knives. Does your post mean that this is not the case in the US?
OMG! Euro circular saws have riving knives! I just looked at the Black and Decker EU website and did a little googling. They all seem to have the knives!Anyway, the plunge saws that have riving knives are from Festool. The knife is a retractable spring loaded knife that drops down as soon as there's a kerf there. That's the only one that I know of in the U.S. so far with an RK. DeWalt will have a FT like saw out here soon and it will also feature plunge cuts and an RK.
As far as Festool goes they are pricey, and do have a riving knife. But I am not fortunate enought to own one yet.
However I think that Dewalt and Makita have similar systems that are just becoming available here in the us. I think they even show a pic of the dewalt one or they were last time I was on the Dewalt site.
Means more choices for me by the time I can get one.
Yep I just saw it on the Dewalt site. If you search for it you get 0 returns, but you can see it if you click on the finish carpenters contest ad. It is one of the prizes. It is ion their European site too.
Webby
Edited 9/22/2008 4:49 pm ET by webby
Edited 9/22/2008 4:50 pm ET by webby
Metabo has a 6" with a knife available in the US but it and the Festool are the only ones I know of.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
Festool does have a riving knife and can plunge. I have had one for ~3 years and find it to be very accurate and well made. It is expensive, but has some features that are hard to find elsewhere. With the guide system it is quite precise.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Glaucon,I actually have the Festool TS55 and love it. It has easily paid for itself in the year that I've owned it. Everything is great, including cutting door bottoms, breaking down plywood, and crosscutting boards. It has virtually eliminated my desire to spring for a Sliding Table Saw.Can I do something like that with a plain old edge guide? Maybe it's possible, but not at my skill level!
I have a few Festool tools. They are well made, and certainly more expensive, particularly now with the dollar low against the euro. The router and circular saw I own have paid for their higher price in stock saved. I can cut to close tolerances, have less waste and do not need to oversize boards to allow for trimming.On the other hand, I can't see much sense in buying the Festool ROS (at least for what I would use it for), or their jigsaw, which is priced higher than my Bosch, but not significantly better IMHO. Ditto the drill. Others may differ, but I tend to justify a tool on a case by case basis.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I must have missed any mention of a B&D 5".
The only circular saws with knives available in the US as far as I know are both German tools.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
The Black & Decker mentioned is on their European website:http://www.blackanddecker.eu/
That is the elderly saw he was talking about?
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
Oops... sorry. I guess I was just looking at ~5-inch Black and Decker saws and posted a picture. It must be a law that the EU saws have riving knives or at least a splitter attached. Personally, I think the RK makes ripping safer since it's harder for the wood to bind the blade and jump backward out of the kerf.
I agree and it seems like it would be a pretty inexpensive upgrade for the manufacturers when they come out with new model saws so frequently, a mount for the knife and a slot in the guard and there you are.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
I was the proud owner of a B&D British made saw but the motor burned out on me twice and since than I've used a cheepo no name saw which I wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy although I might give him mine!
I will say when it worked it was sweet! I miss it dearly it had a riving knife and didn't get in the way except for plunge cuts which I did rarely!
I will say that the blade counts for much in performance and I would recommend keeping a few on hand. One or two for dirty work and couple of finish blades.
Chaim
Jamie - I know it probably does not meet your "proposed budget limits" but!
Find a way to try out a Festool, plunge CS; preferably with a guide track. You will get glue-ready cut quality, even in bevel cuts. The dust collection is complete. You will never look back - trust me.
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Hello Forest Girl. Unless you will be doing some heavy duty construction grade cutting, I'm not sure what the bennefit of getting a worm drive saw would be.
In addition to the Festool saw that has been mentioned, which comes with a track system, Maketa has a new 6" plung saw on the market which also comes with a purpose built track. It doesn't have a riving knife, but it does have other safety features such as a quick stop blade4 break which would add to the safety factor. In my experience, a track system is worth a lot when breaking down plywood sheets. I have an EZ system (let's not open up the debate on which track system is best!!!) There is a video of it on the Makita Canada site (so I'm sure there will be one on the US site as well) which gives a pretty clear demo of the features of the saw.
I'll be interested to see which way you go. Good luck.
I'll take a look at the Makita system, but I doubt I'd want to parse out my funds that way. About to invest heavily in casters, plywood and hardware to build some storage into these tool footprints, try to get the shop in functional condition. Thanks for the heads-up though!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,I hear that the in Europe, the Makita plunge saw isn't much less expensive than the Festool and has a shorter warranty. Anyway, I know that you've been buying lots of tools including your Unisaw, but I have to say, the Festool TS55 is really a sweet set up and a true substitute for a panel saw. That said, I think that as long as you get a saw saw that can be hooked up to the EZ Guide, that'll be a worth while upgrade too.
Well, I dragged out the old Craftsman circular saw yesterday to break down some plywood. It's been a workhorse for 20 years, but whatever hubby did with it last time he used it took a toll. LOL..
I'd tell him.. IT IS YOUR FAULT and get the 'God forbid' new German POWER saw with ALL the goodies!
EDIT: Never trust Germans.. I am one and we started two World Wars!
OK.. So... German and Irish!
Edited 9/23/2008 9:13 pm by WillGeorge
Naw, WG, I can't go about it that way. Yes, if he actually kills a tool, then I take his credit card and go buy a new one, LOL! But if he just trashes it a bit, then I quietly sneak out, buy a better one, and lock it up. ROFL!!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
But if he just trashes it a bit, then I quietly sneak out, buy a better one, and lock it up.Dang you are alot like my passed on mate! But she always told me.. I'm the only tool you will ever need?
I never thought about the little 6" saw, that may be a good idea, Keep the POS Skill for things like 2X4s and rough construction (IF I can beet it to keep a 90degree cut) and go with a little guy. How much depth of cut do you think you will get and will it be enough? I mean if you are cutting 2x then you need at least 2 inches (or so).
Well let us know how it turns out, and while I do not have a spouse to mess up my tools, my father has been known to be a bit rough. So I feel you pain.
Doug.
The Saw Boss will cut a 2x4 at 45 degrees, which is plenty for me.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Saw Boss.. PC? .. But then again you are so easy to get along with!
Humm, I will have to look into that one, I did not realise it would cut that thick a board.
Doug
FG:Just an FYI: If you get a saw with a left side blade, you won't be able to use all the latest features of the EZ guides if you go that route in the future. You may want to check out their website, they sell EZ ready Makita saws.
Hi, JM. I bought the SawBoss this morning. Don't think I'll worry about the EZ right now, I really like the dust collection on the SawBoss and the adjustable sight and stops, those features won out. I think Makita, Ridgid and others would be wise to add a dust collection feature to their saws!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG:Not to worry, you can trick out that Saw Boss of yours even further:http://www.eurekazone.com/images/products/smartbase/smallpc.jpg
Dear Jamie,
Ok, I actually read your thread and I guess that I can delete my previous post. A couple of thoughts about the "Saw Boss":1) Good, powerful saw, lightweight and rugged.
2) The shoe (base): This is it's weakness, or perhaps where it's been surpassed by it's larger brethren:Unless they have changed it, it is a stamped steel shoe. It works well unless dropped. It will still work, but they never seem to be all that accurate again. If this is YOUR saw, then I'm sure that you won;'t be facing that, HOWEVER, if "hubby" or someone else gets ahold of it.......The Magnesium base is a better shoe, if it is available. It won't burr, it won't eat up aluminum straight edges or rust. Just my "after the fact" thought.Best,John
Edited 9/24/2008 11:09 pm ET by Jmartinsky
The magnesium shoe while lighter is still buggered up beyond using accurately when dropped, it is over twice as expensive to replace and I don't think it's light enough for an occasional user to be worth the extra bucks. A little paste wax will eliminate burring or galling. Magnesium's expense is best for reducing unsprung weight on automobiles and weight reduction on aircraft. In my opinion it's not a good material for a saw shoe. The 345 Saw Boss is a great saw that I do not think would benefit in any substantial way from having a mag shoe.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
Dear D,
See I think that magnesium is an excellent choice for a saw base. Where else can you get those cool shavings that flash so nicely when ignited?Best,John
Now that is a benefit I had not considered!
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
JM, the DeWalt would be too heavy for my use. I want this particular saw to be one I dont dread pulling out of the cupboard to use. Meaning it's not to heavy, isn't too noisy, and doesn't spew dust all over the place.
I won't be using this saw the way many of you guys use yours, heavy jobs, hard environs, just pull it out once in a while to break down some plywood, mostly 1/2" or less. If I do drop it, which is fairly unlikely, a replacement base isn't too expensive from what I've heard.
thanks for the info! I'm going to fire the little thing up tomorrow and try it out. ordered a Diablo 40-tooth blade for it this afternoon, won't get here until next week though.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Dear FG,
I think that the Saw Boss will be perfect for you. They have always been a very good saw, and I'm sure that you will care for it much better than anything we ever use. Fine choice of blade as well. Happy Cutting!Best,John
Dear Jamie,
This is a long post, that I haven't read, so forgive me if you have reached a conclusion. I don't think that you are considering a worm drive, or Festool, so I'll stick with the sidewinders. After twenty years in the trade, I can offer the following:
1) Makita: Good saw, but unless they have really redesigned it, this saw always seems to blind the operator when in use. A bit of a drawback.
2) PC: Not terrible, but no frills either. Light, powerful and they offer a left blade version. If B&D has "redesigned" or "improved" it somehow.... forget it. Otherwise this is a great choice.
3) Bosch, not my favorite, but a good saw.
4) Milwaukee, again a good saw, but tends to be heavy.
5) DeWalt, The one yellow tool that I own. The rear pivot model, for the following reasons:
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW364K-Circular-Electric-Adjustment/dp/B00002231Z/ref=pd_bbs_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1222310811&sr=8-4
A) A nice wide shoe, for good stability.
B) A shoe that measures 5 1/2" from the edge to the saw blade. That makes using a rip guide much easier.
C) The depth of adjustment is not a cheap stamped piece of metal, it is the front knob and is actually useful.
D) The depth gauge is actually legible accurate and useable
E) The "rear pivot" keeps the handle low and at a reasonable angle. If you try one, you will see what I mean. It is easier to try than to explain.
F) Decent dust collection (deflection).
G) Can take a beating, if necessary.
H) It comes with a good case, which I like a lot.
Draw backs:
A) It's a Dewalt.
B) It is a heavy saw.
Best,
John
RIDGID recently came out with a smaller version of a circular saw called the "Feugo." I read some great reviews on it. Much smaller and lighter than standard circular saws (sidewinders).
I guess they didn't have one in stock at the 2 HD"s I visited last week. Too bad, it would have been interesting to see one.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You did good Jamie. I bought one of the LH Mag 7 1/4" saws a few years ago. I use it for roughing out plywood, ripping awkward planks, that kind of thing. It is easy to control and cuts beautifully (after I ditched the stock blade and bought a Freud TK). The dust collection is pretty darn good. There used to be a tutorial on the EZSmart site for how to improve the dust collection on PC saws. I don't see it now, but you can get the idea from looking at the Makita saw that sell already set up. Basically a strip of clear plastic wrapped around the front of the blade to capture more dust. BTW, the dust port will plug right into an 1 1/4" Ridgid shopvac hose.David B
Wow, blast from the past this thread is. I like the little PC Boss saw, though the dust chute pipe doesn't fit anything I have. To keep it from an early demise, I've put it in a well-disguised box on a high shelf in the back.
And, even for heavier cuts, I found a Craig's List Craftsman similar to my old one but in pristine condition, and the guy made a dust chute for it. That one's hidden too, LOL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jeeze, I should have looked at the date on the thread. I think I need more coffee. Or less coffee.David B
More coffe, or less coffee. That's the conundrum for me almost every day!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
With my mid facet blade, the tertiary morose function is the path to allegory.
I have a regular Makita and just love it. It’s about 15 years old.
I do wish it was the one with the blade on the left (even though I am right handed) as mentioned in another comment, it’s easier to see the cut so if mine ever dies and I am buying another it will most definitely be the Makita with the left blade.
But I have to say that I’ve had great luck with some well priced brands as well - I have a Skil sander that is excellent and some really good Ridgid and Ryobi tools as well so worth looking at those if they are in a good price range.
One thought on used in this case, this tool can see a lot of bumps and drops and if you’re looking for a forever saw, swinging for a new one and taking great care of it might be worth it since you’ll know if was well cared for from day 1.
I tend to really go with the tool review recommendations on FWW as well, they have steered me well over the years when choosing a new tool,
Cheers! Layne
zombie thread
Braaaaainszzz...
Wow I must have missed something in the 25years since I worked as a carpenter. I can't believe there was no mention of Milwaukee as a great option. It was the saw of choice on most of the jobs sites i worked on. There were still some guys using the old skillsaws because they wouldn't die and a few makitas here and there but the majority were Milwaukee. I still have mine thats over 30 years old and still works great. Although it doesn't get quite the workout that it used to
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