Replies

1. 
   BG | Dec 25, 2002 02:21pm | #1

   Janet,

   Most people take the 'spare rods' that came with their router and put a thread on them to go in that hole...lol..(just being a smarty pants and waiting for the kids to wake up)  Merry Christmas 

2. 
   mfg_king | Dec 27, 2002 01:56am | #2

   It's for a miter gage clamp set. Delta sells one for about $35.

   Follow this link: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/stores/detail/-/hi/B0000223EB/qid=1040943282/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1_etk-tools/104-7405195-2542367

1. 
   DWRead | Dec 28, 2002 01:26am | #3

   Where could I get the parts to make a clamp like this?

   hi/B000056NQL/qid=1041027787/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2_etk-tools/104-3473250-5231917

   This is exactly what I need, but it doesn't fit my miter gauge.

   Janet

1. 
   mfg_king | Dec 29, 2002 03:59am | #5

   I don't know. Maybe you can alter it or the miter gage to make it work.

3. 
   silver77 | Dec 28, 2002 04:45am | #4

   A Merry Christmas to you!

   I'm going to go on a tangent and say get rid of your miter gauge and replace it with a simple table saw sled that will do everything the miter gauge will do and more,with greater accuracy.

   It is simply a 2' x 4'x 1/2" mdf base with  1/4" x 3/8"x  2' runners of hardwood or UMW that run in the machined grooves on your table saw.

   A 1" x 4" x 4'  rail on the front and back that are SQUARE to your fence, complete this sled...easy to clamp to, nail to,whatever...I built one several years ago and haven't used my miter gauge in years, except for today when I used it to trim 5/8" dowel to 9/16".

   Always square,a greater margin of safety,very adaptable for set-ups and small pieces and,except for being heavier than a miter saw gauge, there is no down side to a table saw sled.

   cheers,

   silver

1. 
   DWRead | Dec 31, 2002 01:16am | #6

   Silver, how do you deal with pieces that need to be cut at an angle?

   Janet

1. 
   silver77 | Dec 31, 2002 02:39am | #7

   I'm a low tech kind of guy...cut the angle with your miter gauge ar preferably with a chop saw.

   If you're using the sled for multiple angle cuts, use the angled piece for a simple set-up using a 1x3 screwed to the sled base on the left side of blade at the correct angle. You can even corral your pieces for a higher safety margin by adding another piece as a keeper and your stock to be cut would just slip between them, if you're getting my drift. 

   It turns the table saw into a poorman's version of a sliding table and in my opinion is vastly safer and more accurate than a miter gauge.

   cheers,

   silver 

   Edited 12/30/2002 6:41:32 PM ET by silver

1. 
   johnhardy | Dec 31, 2002 03:24am | #8

   I agree completely with silver, except you want the rear fence of the sled to be perpendicular to the saw blade. Ignore the normal fence.

   To test squareness, take two pieces of wide hardwood that is jointed (say, 8 inches wide). Cut both with the wood on the left side of the blade. The fence is fastened down but still moveable (not glued). place one piece, jointed side down, on your table. Place the other side, jointed side down, and swiveled 180 degrees, so that the cut sides abut each other. If you cannot see light through the cut you have a completely accurate fence on the sled. If there is light at the bottom or the top, you're off, and the error is half what you see (the error is doubled by doing what I suggest). Tweak the fence until there is no light. You've now got a perfectly accurate cutoff sled, and it does wonders.

   One caution here. Never, never, use the sled with your hand where the sawblade will come through the back fence. To be perfectly safe, place a shopmade guard on the back side of the sled which covers the blade as it comes through the back side.

   And you want the front and read fences tall enough so the blade doesn't cut complete through them, or else your sled will be in two pieces and will be useless.

   John