Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Dec 22, 2004 05:35pm | #1

   It's usually best to glue up the stock in thicker form as a whole, then plane or beltsand it. If it wants to warp as you clamp it, a bowed piece of lumber or ply with the apex in the center, keeps your work flat on the bench as you clamp it.

    If you cannot reach the middle to clamp, steel or lead weight reduces warp. Aromatic cedar also comes in veneer ply to aid in construction.

2. 
   GHR | Dec 22, 2004 06:22pm | #2

   I clamp up 1/8"x24"x30" panels from 1-3/4" wide boards from time to time.

   I use 3 2x4's below and 3 above (clamped togetehr) to hold the wood in a plane. A bit of hand sanding is all that is needed to clean it up.

3. 
   Eric | Dec 22, 2004 09:15pm | #3

   Dave,

   Just put the panel on your bench, concave up and support the edges (which should be a little off the bech) with small wooden wedges (or a thin, full length strip).  This should prevent the panel from flexing as you plane.  Take the high points off the edges by planing with a jack plane (say a #5) diagonally accross the grain.  This should get the "up" side flat.  Smooth it if it needs to and then flip the panel over.  Because you just flattend the now "down" side, it should no longer flex.  You now should take the convex hump out of the middle of the now "up" side.  Again, work diagonally accross the grain unitl your "up" side is flat.  Smooth as necessary and you should have a flat and smooth panel.  Best of luck. 

   Cheers,

   Eric

1. 
   dfg | Dec 23, 2004 02:12am | #4

   Thanks, that is kind of what I thought. I've never seen this mentioned in any of the books, but seems like a pretty common occurrence when flattening a panel.