Replies

1. 
   BArnold | Jul 21, 2005 11:04pm | #1

   bmw,

   I'm working on a project now that includes claro walnut. I just started the finish process with a 1/1 ratio of BLO/naphtha and it looks great. I use the same mixture on most things I do because it pops the grain nicely and adds a warm glow. I usually do a couple of light coats of the BLO/naphtha mix. Topcoat depends on application.

   In general, if I'm going to continue the 'hand-rubbed' finish I add polyurethane to the second and subsequent coats of oil mix in a 1/1/1 ratio. For my current project, a table that could get some hard use, I'll let the oil cure thoroughly and topcoat it with pre-catalyzed lacquer.

   Regards,

   Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
   Mensa Member
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1. 
   philip | Jul 22, 2005 01:08am | #2

   Bill,
   You mention wanting to apply precatlac onto a cured polyurethane-please give details i.e are you to use a buffer etc. I always thought the lacquer is not compatible.

1. 
   BArnold | Jul 22, 2005 04:45am | #4

   That's not what I said.  Read my post again.

    

   Bill Arnold - Custom WoodcraftingMensa Member Click Here if you're interested in a good, inexpensive website host.

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

1. 
   philip | Jul 22, 2005 05:43am | #5

   Bill, patience now...I still don't get it.
   You said you topcoat the oil and polyu mix once it is fully cured.
   I am still under the impression that catlac is not compatible with that-if it does not react adversely right away it will later.
   Or, if it is only oil, then I thought the two are even less likely to love each other.How long do you wait?

   Edited 7/21/2005 10:47 pm ET by Philip Marcou

   Edited 7/21/2005 10:49 pm ET by Philip Marcou

1. 
   BArnold | Jul 22, 2005 03:01pm | #7

   If it's a type of wood that is enhanced by oil, I'll rub in the BLO/Naphtha mix, then rub it with a dry cloth after a few minutes to dry the surface.  If I'm spraying a topcoat of lacquer, I'll let the oil cure for a couple of weeks.  In fact, when I've been in a hurry, I've sprayed NC lacquer over oil after a couple of days.

   Bill Arnold - Custom WoodcraftingMensa Member Click Here if you're interested in a good, inexpensive website host.

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

2. 
   Jellyrug | Jul 22, 2005 02:07am | #3

   BMW,

   I only spray, nothing else, but these are my formula's for Walnut.

   For the traditional American or English Walnut, which has been steamed and kiln dried, I start with BLO, followed by Amber dewaxed shellac, finished with lacquer. The amber brings out the rich color, while the BLO pops the grain.

   For Claro, grown in California, air dried, the rich orange brown color and figure is already there, so I only use a sanding sealer and lacquer. I find BLO makes it too dark and hides the figure.

   
   

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   Edited 7/22/2005 11:36 am ET by Willie Martins

3. 
   Telemike | Jul 22, 2005 07:48am | #6

   If you're an amatuer, keep reading. If you're a pro, you're going to be using materials that amateurs don't usually use like catalyzed lacquers and you have more knowledge than I'll ever have.

   I use a lot of California air dried walnut from the central valley, mostly from our own place. To finish, I use a soaking coat of watco clear first. I give it time to cure completely, then sand with 220 or 320. The watco warms the walnut a bit for subsequent finishes.

   Then, I usually use minwax wipeon poly clear with 320 between coats. Lastly, I rub out the finish and buff with wax. The watco warms up the walnut and brings out the subtle reds and purples. The poly gives a durable waterproof coat and looks quite good when rubbed out.

   If I just want a hand rubbed oil look and don't need a lot of protection, I just use clear watco - several coats with sanding and/or steel wooling in between.

   I use these mainstream mass market coatings because they are readily available and they cure reliably and predicably. I've had variable results with exotic and home formulated finishes. Some work as well or better than the packaged mass market stuff, sometimes. Others have been sticky disasters that never cured and had to be removed.

   Read the article on wipeon polys in the last FWW if you want a varnish type finish.