Just got some old tools in rough shape. Including knives, saws, wrenches, chisels, combo squares, rules,etc. Most have moderate to heavy rust, grit and grime. Sharpening I’ve been developing for years, let’s call that covered; an endless discussion by itself.
What I’m asking for are strong cleaning methods – with or without soap and or chemicals.
Thanks.
Be up in a bit hon; just down here scrubbing. You should see this one…!
Replies
Evaporust.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Electrolysis is the easiest and I think the most effective. I have used it effectively restoring tools and car parts...everything from a small plate to an entire chassis. A good summary is at http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
Sandpaper, WD-40, and a stiff bristle brush.
Wire wheel on the grinder, then possibly a progression of wet-n-dry grits with WD-40, depending on the tool.
Vote two for Evaporust! I just started using it and I'm very impressed. Remove heavy crud with paint thinner and a stiff brush first. Then soak in Evaporust. As soon as you remove piece from Evaporust, coat with oil.
Enjoy!
Mack
"Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"
EvapoRust, hands-down. Cannot possibly get any simpler than leaving an item soaking overnight, the rinsing it and wiping it down. Sometimes a little 0000# steel wool just to shine it up.
If you are prone to picking up old tools and restoring them, go for a 5- or 10-gallon can. It's way cheaper that way, try to find a seller who's in your geographical area so shipping doesn't take too big a chunk.
Remember that the stuff is reusable. I have one can of "clean" ER, and another can of used ER. I keep using the used stuff until it stops working. Other advantage is that it will not harm plastic or most other metals than steel/iron. When I restored an Inca table saw, I soaked several parts that were steel fastened to aluminum. The aluminum parts were not affected by the ER, the steel parts came out fresh and nice.
If you have something too big for a plastic food storage thingie, make a trough out of plastic sheeting and wood, pour in the ER and soak away.
No gloves needed, no wires and electricity and no off-gassing. Just plain cool stuff!
Hi forestgirl,Happy holidays !>EvapoRust
Lets say a person gets some of this between two parts that are riveted together etc. Do you put anything on to passivate or neutralize the reaction? The stuff I am used to for de-rusting before painting car parts etc. is a two part process.roc
I don't think it needs pasivating (I like that word!). I do rinse with water, and then dry off the object. Once the rust is gone, there is no more reaction. If you wanted to make sure, though, you could call them. Click here for their web site.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
> pasivatingHey it is even a real word if I spell it with enough "S's" I am going to try . . . here goes . . . passivatingit hurts me to spel rite. It hurts up here in my head.
From the original post:"Just got some old tools in rough shape. Including knives, saws, wrenches, chisels, combo squares, rules,etc. Most have moderate to heavy rust, grit and grime."What about the grit and grime? Evaporust for that? Maybe possible to kill two birds with another product or method?
Edited 12/4/2008 8:51 am ET by Oilstone
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