Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 12, 2007 04:54am | #1

   boil in water.

    

   Expert since 10 am.

2. 
   kcmac | Jan 12, 2007 05:14am | #2

   Fine India Stones are actually 180-220 grit aluminum oxide abrasive bonded in an extremely hard durable glass bond.  After  the stones are fired in kilns most manufacturers vacuum hot oil deep into the pores the stones.  When cooled, the oil solidifies filling the pores of the stone (think vaseline).  This combination of abrasive, bond, and oil allows finishes on tools considerably finer than would normally be expected.

   The durability of the stones are their main benefit... however, they do occasionally require some conditioning.  I've used silicon carbide paper (Tufback Durite or WetorDry) for years with good success by rubbing the stones vigorously over the sandpaper glued to a glass block.  The key is the grit size of the paper.  I would try to find (industrial distributor or auto supply store) the same or one grit size finer than the stones. 

   You'll be rewarded with an India stone that looks/feels/sharpens like brand new...Good Sharpening.

1. 
   9619 | Jan 12, 2007 05:05pm | #4

   kcmac,
   what about flattening #### stones? I have an old one that is not flat any more. This is a natural rather than man made stone. Can it be flattened? I already use Scary Sharp so I have the glass and sandpaper. I was thinking of giving it a try. I would benefit more from the advice of someone with experience.
   Thanks,
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   tuolumne | Jan 12, 2007 05:13pm | #5

   I flattened an old oil stone by rubbing vigorously on a CMU block (cinderblock).  This stone had an 1/8" hollow in the center and it took a while.  Maybe try that or a beltsander to do the bulk of the work and then finish on your float glass.  I used a DMT diamond stone to finish up.

1. 
   9619 | Jan 12, 2007 05:17pm | #6

   tuolumne,
   thank you for your quick and knowldegeable response. I will do what you recommend. You mentioned diamond stones. I have seen them and read about them, but have not used them. Could you give me a few sentences about what they are good for and what their limitations are. In other words, why couldnt you just use diamondstones, and forget the oil and water stones? Actually I have wondered the same thing about ceramic stones as well. Do you have any knowledge of them?
   Thanks,
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   GW52 | Jan 12, 2007 05:34pm | #7

   Mel,

   I use diamond plates for all of my sharpening followed by a leather strop. Why go through the expense of using a product that get out of shape and then use a diamond stone to correct it. I could see using india stones for carving tools and some gouges used for turning but plane irons and chisels get the diamond plate.

   Greg

2. 
   tuolumne | Jan 12, 2007 05:45pm | #8

   Diamond stones are unbelievable.  Why not use them...well, there very expensive.  I got what could be called a fantastic deal when I paid $80 for a 4"x10" fine/coarse duosharp bench stone.  I understand the grits to be approximately 600/325 on this stone.  This stone cuts very fast when you're used to natural stones.  I've never used a waterstone/slurry etc.  I tend to baby this thing since it cost so much!  I usually take care of any nicks etc. on a coarse carborundum stone and then the two sides of the diamond.  If I'm not in a hurry I'll use an old and very clogged oil stone for a really polished edge.  I haven't moved up to a leather strop yet, but I'm getting there.  Really, the 600 grit polished edge sure looks good enough for me.  I'll only take an iron or chisel further if I'm trying to plane a highly figured surface and don't want to risk any tearout.  I would say this stone would be money well spent even if you can't get it for less than $100.  Did I mention it was fast!  Previously the last stages of my sharpening were done with 220 and then 600 grit paper on the tablesaw bed, lubricated with water.  By the way the DMT stones don't make a mess because you lubricate with water. 

   For the OP, here is a link for cleaning stones:

   http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/ww/oilstones/cleaning.htm

   Easy sharpening has only enhanced my addiction to hand tools.

3. 
   9619 | Jan 12, 2007 06:08pm | #9

   tuolumne,
   Thank you for the info on diamond stones.
   I have noticed that there are two types of diamond stones. One has diamond dust spread across the entire surface. The other has little circles of abrasive. I have read that the one with the abrasive all over the surface is best for small chisels that might get stuck going across a surface that is partly abrasive and partly smooth. I have both carving gouges, including small ones (1/8") and bench chisels, and hand planes. Given that, what is your recommendation on the two types of diamond stones?Is there anything else I should watch out for in selecting diamond stones? In other words, what do you know know that you wish you would have known before you bought yours?Thanks,
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

4. 
   tuolumne | Jan 12, 2007 06:39pm | #10

   DMT offers a plate called the DuoSharp plus that has a zone of continuous abrasive at the end for small chisels etc.  I do 3/4" and larger chisels on the DMT I have without any problems.  I use the old oilstone for 1/2" and smaller.  These don't take as much time with their smaller surfaces.   I've found these small chisels also cut sandpaper too easily to make that system work.  If the DuoSharp Plus was available when I got mine I would definately have gone for it.  Their diamond plates have an excellent reputation.  With diamond systems you get what you pay for.  Maybe in few years I can afford this one.  http://www.amazon.com/Duo-Sharp-Plus-DuoBase-Extra-Grits/dp/B000H6L6FA/sr=8-1/qid=1168616277/ref=sr_1_1/102-9062618-3387359?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods

   I don't have any carving gouges, so I have no clue how to sharpen them.  I am fascinated by turning and hope to try it when I'm retired in 35 years. 

   Edited 1/12/2007 10:41 am ET by tuolumne

2. 
   kcmac | Jan 14, 2007 11:39pm | #12

   Yes, this method works with all types of aluminum oxide stones either man-made or natural.  The silicon carbide abrasive is considerably harder than aluminum oxide and will flatten the stone.  The prime reason I use S/C sandpaper is the abrasive grain is hanging out like a bear claw... and is agressive. The key, of course, is to "condition" the stones regularly and not to allow them to develop any significant grooves that take a lot of hard work to bring them back to flat and square. 

   I've used loose silicon carbide powder (and water) on 3/8"float glass on water stones before with some measure of success however water stones are "dead soft" compared to India Stones.   My guess is this method will produce a lot of sludge without the desired results...

3. 
   Troy | Jan 12, 2007 09:19am | #3

   I stuck one in the dish washer and that did a pretty good job. This one was dry with no oil when new and at the time I thought cooking oil would make a good honing oil instead it caused all of the metal dust to clog the stone up.

   Troy

4. 
   Tony Z | Jan 12, 2007 08:44pm | #11

   I've used oven cleaner with excellent results--give the stone a good soaking with any brand cleaner then rinse under hot tap water with maybe a bit of a scrubbing.

   If you do as some have suggested and use a belt sander to flatten any stone, be sure to use adequate dust protection measures and a correct dust mask.