My new table saw has an oily residue for rust protection – what is the best way to clean/prep the new surface?
Thanks,
Brian
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Replies
I would use kerosene
Jack Griffin
I just had the same problem and used kerosene. Works great. I agree with Jack.
I agree with the others regarding kerosene. With my first new cast iron tool several years ago, I tried naval jelly, acetone, and about anything else I could get my hands on. Tried kerosene and never used anything else.
Ok - Thanks!
And what should I put on it from now on to prevent rusting? I used Minwax finish wax on the last saw top and that worked great, but just curious if there is something other folks use?
Thanks
Personally, I use minwax paste furniture wax. I have also used Boeshield (sp?) spray, but for whatever reason I like the paste wax. Others here may disagree, but it works for me. One thing to consider is if the product you are using will "contaminate" the wood when it comes to applying a finish to the wood.
Use mineral spirits - the LOW ODOR variety or naphtha. And PLENTY of ventillation. Do it outdoors, if possible. You're going to have lots of vapor in the air. Spread the rags out to dry. Do not pile them in a heap or you could get spontaneous combustion. Use paste wax on the metal when it's clean. Rich
Agree with Rich... I used to use kerosene but the vapors and smell linger forever it seems. I just used low-odor mineral spirits with terry towel rags today to clean a Uni-saw and a 8" jointer. Nice 50 + degrees in Atlanta and I rolled them out to clean them.
Dried them good with clean terry towels and let them sit for the mineral spirit vapors to all clear. Back in and heating the shop to warm the metal back up. Got two sun-lamps aimed at them also as I need to get Johnson's paste furniture wax on them by to-night. Left un-coated after the cosmoline comes off is asking for trouble. Once I apply the wax, I take a hair dryer and run over the wax before buffing. That allows the wax to melt down into the pores of the cast iron before I buff the top. I have found it last longer if that is done.
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Sarge, Good tip about the hair dryer. Can you see the wax react to it? The metal is one huge heat sink. Rich
It's not going to boil of course, but you can certainly feel it become very soft with you finger. The wax has to penetrate the pores as poly does on that cast iron. I used to wax every 3-4 weeks, but after I started this procedure, I can technically get away with 8 weeks or better. Depends on how much stock goes across the machine surface and if it is rough or already surfaced.
My TS and jointer see mostly rough stick as I purchase it that way from the local supplier as a cost factor. I mainly rip on my TS as a SCMS gets the cross-cut action. So.. it just depends. I will take time on and wipe old wax off and put on new anytime I feel the surfaces losing a reasonable slickness. It doesn't take that long at all and the extra effort pays dividends in avoiding heavy cleaning or rust removal.
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Here in the NW, I use mineral spirits to clean off the cosmoline followed by a buffed coat of Boeshield T9 and then a buffed coat of paste wax. Lasts between 6 and 8 months of pretty heavy use.------------------------------------
"The West won the world not by the superiority of its ideas or values or religion but rather by its superiority in applying organized violence. Westerners often forget this fact, non-Westerners never do."---------------Samuel P. Huntington
I just bought the Boeshield kit from the St. Louis Woodworking show. Rust remover works great, the T-9 rust/ Corrusion Preventer is highly rated. Its a solvent/ wax base with no silicones- so they say on the web site. There was a big write-up in WOOD mag about it some time back.
Time will tell if the rust preventer works, but the rust remover works better than anything I have tried (Phosphoric Acid based). A friend talked me into getting the "kit" ($31). Web site says Sears sells it.
KB
in collinsville?
Yes, the show in COllinsville. Did you go? DId you buy the Boeshield kit. OK...how much did YOU pay for yours?
KB
i went, but didn't buy anything this year...how did you like the new format with all of the demonstrations? I thought it was OK, but it seemed like there were less vendors than usual...also i didn't see any realy good deals...there were a couple of things that i was looking for but I can buy them directly from the manufacturer over the internet for less than what the "show special" was after tax...
how do you like the Boeshield ?
csc, I really like the boeshield rust remover. Have to wait and see about the longevity of the rust preventer. At the WW show I did buy $100 worth of "Bulldog Gold" disks. Hydra flow prices were lower than even internet prices, so I stocked up. I also ordered the Veritas large shoulder plane since they had free shipping. But Lie Nielsen wasn't there, a big disappointment. I agree that the show was smaller with less vendors- lots of Chinese plastic doo-dads, bags of brushes and cheapies that you can get at harbor freight. If it wasn't for the sandpaper, I would'nt even go.
Afterwards, I went to the STL Woodcraft and bought their low speed grinder (made by Orion) and a Steel City Mortiser. Also bought a bunch of dust collection hose -on sale, at about what the show prices were- and finally installed an overhead DC. I've had most of the fittings, gates and quick connects for a year now. Got that done finally.
Overall, the show was a disappointment, including standing in line in the freezing #@@x^#ing cold to buy a ticket. But I came out ahead with $14 per 50 disks of paper, and I removed the stains from the table saw.
Have you been to a STL WWGuild meeting?
KB
no i haven't been to one. I've thought about it but never taken teh time to attend. Have you ever gone? or know anyone who has? I'm just wondering if they are worth the time and effort....
I just posted to Rich about the Boesheild you mention. I have used it off and on for years and especially if a dormant period occurs that I can't monitor. And you are correct.. the wax will probably last much longer.. but I like the feel of a stock sliding across a slick top. The absence of rust is just a spin-off of that. ha.. ha...
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
I agree with the slick surfaces, I wax everything.... infeeds and outfeed tables whether wood or metal, glue bench etc.
It seemed like the B T9 did not last as long until I had used it 4 or 5 times, now with it and the wax I get good life out of an application.------------------------------------
"The West won the world not by the superiority of its ideas or values or religion but rather by its superiority in applying organized violence. Westerners often forget this fact, non-Westerners never do."---------------Samuel P. Huntington
Thanks Sarge. I was just asking, not doubting. I've been extremely lucky in a very humid environment - Hawaii. No rust at all. Just an occasional light wipe down with paste wax protected everything. Now I'm putting my shop together in Arizona, quite the opposite humidity situation, except during the "Monsoon" months.
Perhaps I do some over-kill on how often I put new on, but my theory is better safe than sorry. I have Boeshield T-9 on hand and if there is going to be any dormant period I do as Dgreen just posted.. BS T-9 it heavy and then lay wax.
As none of this has no truly scientific backing, I suppose whatever one does to protect from rust can't be all that bad... as long as the bottom line comes up no rust! ha.. ha...
Sarge.. jt
I was using paste wax and having trouble with rust in spite of my efforts. Switched to Boeshield and have not had a spot of rust since. Be sure to follow the application directions correctly. I apply the Boeshield liberally making sure all surfaces are coated, let sit over night and buff off the next day (approx 24 hours). One application lasts many months. Wax after if you wish. I usually don't.I'm so impressed with Boeshield, I use it on my firearms collection as well....Jeff
Edited 2/12/2007 4:21 am by jeff100
WD40 cleans well. I treat all metal tools with Empire Top Cleaner, and find it to be superior to paste wax and easier to use, especially on any tool with a cutting edge. jc
Edited 2/13/2007 12:14 am ET by InMyOpinion
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