Replies

1. 
   chuckh | May 26, 2006 11:49pm | #1

   Although I've never restored a corrugated plane, I have cleaned up a couple of nasty ones.  A brass wire wheel on the bench grinder has always worked well for me.

   Some people use the electrolysis method for rust removal which may work well on your plane.  There are a number of sights that explain how.  Here is one:

     http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

    

   -Chuck

2. 
   charlesstanford | May 27, 2006 01:48am | #2

   Just Naval Jelly the bad boy.  Clean it up good and then wipe the sole down with 3-in-1, buff it basically until it's gone and then wax it.

   If it's just light storage rust, some WD-40 and steel wool should do the trick.

   Wire wheels will certainly work too.

3. 
   scantlings | May 27, 2006 03:45am | #3

   I would suggest going on the internet and reading about rust removal. There is a technique that uses a battery charger, water, a piece of steel and I think washing soda. There will be a lot of info out there, but the basic idea is that you can remove the rust without damaging the tool. Please be aware that the process only works in "line of site". This means that the only parts of the tool that will be cleaned are those with a direct "line of site" with the sacificial steel. This is really "nay so bad" though, once one part is clean, simply rotate the tool to clean the other side.

4. 
   PADDYDAHAT | May 27, 2006 04:47am | #4

   Daggs, if it's the dusty, fuzzy rust take a razor blade and shave all that you can away. If it's the pitted and crusty type use the mild acid or other solutions like the one sold by Packard a wood turning supplier. The slots don't need to be as smooth as the sole but it would be nice. Then dress the sole looking for bad edges on the slots-dress them out and finish cleaning the sole as usual. Many old planes can be renovated into superior users. Good luck, Pat

5. 
   Gnome | May 27, 2006 01:48pm | #5

   I have used the electrolysis method and it really works. I used it on several corrugated soles and after the treatment I used a wire wheel. They all cleaned up like new.

6. 
   Daggs | May 27, 2006 04:38pm | #6

   Here are some pictures

   
1. 
   EdHarrison | May 28, 2006 01:27am | #8

   Nice plane.  You'll enjoy that.  I have a WWII era No. 6 that I really enjoy.

   I'd go with Paddy D Hat's recommendation - a utility razor blade (two nice angular corners) and some WD-40.  You can scrape most of that rust out.  A scotch brite pad to get the rest of it.  WOn't be difficult at all.  I'd be hesitant about beatin' on the sole with a wire wheel, though.

   Good luck, Ed

    

7. 
   forestgirl | May 27, 2006 07:24pm | #7

   Before you go to all the trouble of setting up an electrolysis thing, check out this thread from Len:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=19526.1

   and further down, another user:
   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=19526.20

   You should be able to get some of the EvapoRust at an AutoZone, assuming there's one in your neighborhood.  Try it out on something small and rusty if you're nervous about it.  Before I get jumped on here, no I still haven't had a chance to try it out myself.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/27/2006 12:25 pm by forestgirl

8. 
   jazzdogg | May 28, 2006 06:28am | #9

   Hi Daggs,

   If you own, or can borrow, a battery charger, try electrolysis; it's effective and inexpensive.

   Just be mindful that the gas produced is combustible - hydrogen - not a problem if you don't smoke and work in a well-ventilated area (I do it outdoors).

   From your snapshots, the rust looks superficial. Should be a great restoration project.

   Good luck,

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

9. 
   highfigh | May 29, 2006 12:06am | #10

   Yup. Citric acid is available from beer/wine making suppliers and in the kosher foods section of grocery stores, called 'sour salt'. I did most of my planes with citric acid and it only removes the rust, no good metal. Then, I used Scotch Brite for metal, found in the paint department of a chain called Menard's, but they have it in most big box and hardware stores.

   Keep the parts separate in the container- I bought some plastic storage boxes at Wal-Mart and mixed 1/4 cup of acid to 1 qt of water. Once done (I let them soak for 2-3 days), I dried them off and scrubbed them with the Scotch Brite. It will get into the grooves. The Scotch Brite pads for metal are brown and have "For Metal" on the package. They work a lot faster on rust than the green ones.

   Once clean, I wiped them with mineral spirits briefly, dried them and let them sit for a while so the solvent would evaporate. Solvents soften japanning, so that's the reason I wouldn't go with a stronger one than mineral spirits. A few coats of paste wax, and they work great.

   It'll probably need flattening, so if it needs a lot of work, you can buy sheets of emery cloth in the paint department, too. Then, go to 150 grit and progress through 220, 320 and 400. You can go finer if you want.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
10. 
    highfigh | May 29, 2006 04:47am | #11

    I didn't originate that thread but I may have added some posts after reading it myself and trying it out. Someone had mentioned brewing supply stores as a source and since a friend lives close to one, I went there before going to their house. I bought a pound of citric acid for about $5 and have used only a little, so I should be good for a while.

    "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
11. 
    pzgren | May 29, 2006 09:09pm | #12

    Take a look at Mike Dunbar's book on cleaning and restoring antique tools.

    Also, there's some stuff called Top Saver that removes rust quickly and easily; just use a bit of it with the edge of a Scotchbright pad and you should be able to get it all out of the grooves.

    A small wire wheel on a Dremel tool also works well.

    BTW, that's a really fine plane you have there; it should clean up real nice. Congratulations!

    James

    
    

    ---

    Edited 5/29/2006 2:10 pm by pzgren

12. 
    EdHarrison | May 29, 2006 11:38pm | #13

    "Texas Pete" Hot sauce (made in North Carolina, despite the name) is pretty legendary for that and a major component of it is vinegar.  There's something else in Texas Pete (formaldehyde? FD & C #7 Red Dye?) that is working as well - if you put a copper penny in Texas Pete hot sauce, you will never want to eat it again when you see what it does to copper.

     

     

     

1. 
   bugbear | May 31, 2006 02:50pm | #16

   ....if you put a copper penny in Texas Pete hot sauce, you will never want to eat it again when you see what it does to copper.I wouldn't worry. Your stomach acid would have the same effect on the coin; your stomach is majorly acid resistant; it HAS to be! BugBear

13. 
    highfigh | May 30, 2006 05:17pm | #14

    Just about any weak acid solution should work for rust removal. Coke (the drink, not the drug) is a great rust remover.

    If you want to do it all over so you can take before/after pictures, you could always leave it outside again.

    "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
14. 
    highfigh | May 31, 2006 02:47am | #15

    I think that if I was using Coke (the drug), I would be planing so fast the rust would just wear off and the bottom would become polished from the friction.

    Electrolysis is probably the most complete way to remove rust but the weak acid route worked so well for me that I may just try hooking up my battery charger only to experiment.

    "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
15. 
    bugbear | May 31, 2006 05:54pm | #17

    Your stomach acid would have the same effect on the coin;

    Got any pictures? ...:)

    Experimental Procedure
    ======================

    Procure coin(s)

    Place on pavement (use sidewalk if in America)
    outside rowdy nightclub

    Wait for inebriated reveller to vomit on coin(s)

    check result

    BugBear

1. 
   EdHarrison | Jun 01, 2006 04:27am | #18

   Sorry I brought the subject up.

   In the interest of equal time advertising, I'll say that for culinary consumption, I continue to maintain my lifelong association with McIlhenny's Tabasco sauce.  Not only do their products provide an instant upgrade path to nearly all food types (except, perhaps, ice cream), their logo is on all of my golf shirts.  But they don't clean metal as well as Texas Pete.

    

    

    

1. 
   Daggs | Jun 01, 2006 02:36pm | #19

   Coke doesn't work. The urban legend that says that Coke cleans rust is exactly that: a legend.

1. 
   pzgren | Jun 01, 2006 05:50pm | #20

   Here's a suggestion that you'll truly appreciate:

     Try green chile juice..... 

   <<Trying real hard not to LMAO....>>

   James

1. 
   Daggs | Jun 01, 2006 06:24pm | #21

   I'm more partial to red chile myself.

   "Red or green on that?"

2. 
   pzgren | Jun 01, 2006 08:05pm | #22

   I like both, but there's nothing that can match Chimayo red on huevos.....