Good Morning All,
I am usually hanging out in Cook’s Talk but have a question that I hope you can answer. Oak kitchen cabinets in my parent’s kitchen are in desperate need of a good cleaning. They have always used Pledge to wax them with and I think it has built up over the years. What would you recommend to clean them with and for future maintenance. I had heard that Endust was better than Pledge because it did not have wax only lemon oil. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Cindy
Replies
Endust is definitely better than Pledge. Pledge contains silicones, which are notoriously difficult to remove. I would start by trying a conventional household cleaner, like Formula 409. Avoid getting the wood soaking wet, but a little water won't hurt it.
If that doesn't do the trick, the next step is to go to the hardware store or home center and get a quart can of mineral spirits (also known as paint thinner). Using a soft cloth or heavy-duty paper towel (also available from the same stores), moisten the towel with a little of the solvent and gently rub the surface to be cleaned. It should remove the gunk, but use some caution, because an old and degraded finish might come off, too. Change the paper/cloth frequently, or else you're just moving the gunk around instead of taking it off.
If that isn't enough, a slightly stronger solvent is VM&P naphtha (also available at the same stores). Naphtha is about as strong a solvent as I would use. If it doesn't work, the wood probably needs some amount of sanding and refinishing.
Thank you very much for the quick reply, I really appreciate it.
I will definitely make sure my dad gets rid of the Pledge and will try your tips for cleaning.
Cindy
Murphy's Oil Soap works pretty well for cleaning up wood cabs & the like. I'd steer clear of spray can products since the stuff in them just builds up over time and does more harm than good.
If they must wax them, a coat of Butcher's Wax ever year or two would be great. Wipe-downs as needed with Murphy's in the interim.
Probably the best thing you can do for kitchen cabs is to make sure your exhaust fan is working (preferably venting to the outside) and the filters are CLEAN and functioning, and then use the fan religiously. Avoiding grease build-up on the cabs in the first place is huge.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
My dad picked up some Murphy's at the store yesterday, good timing! I will also let him know about the butcher's wax, is that similar to a product on the market called Hippo Wax? It is used on wood that has not been sealed.
Thank you for the idea on checking the exhaust fan too, I will let him know.
Cindy
Butcher's is a brand of wax. The can says it was designed for use on bowling alleys. It's just a good, old fashioned, "wax on, wax off" kind of real wax -- not the fake stuff in a spray can. The company's been around forever, making the same product. I use it as the final step in pretty much every piece of furniture I make.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
If Regular mild dish soap and a warm cloth is not enough , try something like Simple Green or such .
Liquid gold is a good barrier to oil them with .
dusty
Thank you for the info!
Cindy
Candilady,
I've used the Murphy soap, mineral spirits, 409, etc. all with some success. Recently on TOH finishers cleaned 40-50 year old woodwork with TSP liquid from the hardware store..I'm trying that next.
Thank you for the tip, I think we will be trying the Murphy's next and getting rid of the pledge completely!
Candilady:
Once you get the cabinets clean, and possibly repair the finish, avoid almost all maintenance products. They really don't do anything. Depending on the brand, "Lemon Oil," for example, is either kerosene or mineral oil with lemon scent. It does not "feed" the wood. Nothing "feeds" wood, which, after all, is already dead. It merely shines up the wood a bit for a short time, makes it smell good, and then draws dust. The silicone products work differently, but the silicone stays around and makes it nearly impossible to ever repair the finish, because future finishes won't stick to silicone -- and even traces of it can cause failure.
You are best off to dust with a slightly damp rag, occasionally clean with one of the mild soaps mentioned by others, and once or twice a year wax with real paste wax. Sometimes, applying the wax with 0000 oil-free steel wool will go far to clean the surface and improve the appearance. real wax gets buffed off as soon as it dries, so there is no build-up. A remarkably thin coat remains after buffing.
Joe
TSP is OK if you are going to refinish the cabs. It's used to prep for painting too. It's purpose is to etch the surface of the existing finish to give the new finish something to "bite" on, so it'll make the finish look dull. Probably too aggressive for regular use.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike,
Thanks, that interesting. I'm thinking about a wipe on varnish (minwax) afterwards. Do you think that'll work?
If they have been Pledged over the years, you will have a big problem trying to top coat them with most anything. The silicone in Pledge will cause fish-eyes. When I suspect Pledge contamination in refinishing, a couple of light coats of Seal Coat (Dewaxed shellac) is the first thing following the stain, if any.Here is an excellent article on cleaning:
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/savingfinish.htmI also clean cabinets professionally and tough spots call for these:
https://shop.guardsman.com/store/detail/product_detail_theme_6/?product_id=6110
As Hammer says, silicone and/or other contaminants in the products that have been applied over the years may cause issues with any finish you apply over the existing. If you really want to refinish without completely stripping the cabs, you could try thoroughly cleaning the cabs with a strong cleaner (like TSP) and then mineral spirits, followed by a light sanding. Then you can try applying a wipe-on varnish. But refinishing, IMHO, is tougher than finishing new wood since the old finish presents a whole 'nother set of variables to the equation.
Still, you may want to give it a try by doing the inside of a door to see how it would turn out. If you like the results, go for it. However, be aware that the wipe-on may not be as durable as the finish that is on the cabs now. Kitchen cabs usually get a finish that is specially designed to stand up to the kitchen environment. I'm not aware of any wipe-on finish that will be as durable as, e.g., catalyzed lacquer that cab mfgrs use (think epoxy varnish).
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I have used this cleaning method for several years now and it is amazing how well it works. "Dow bathroom scrubbing bubbles" is the product. This is how to use it-Spray it on and wait until the bubbles turn to liquid then rinse with a well with a rag full of water. Spray it on again and do the same steps, then dry with on old towel and wax. You will not believe the dirt it removes.
Thank you for the tip! I use Dow in the bathroom and swear by the stuff, I would never have thought to use it on wood.
Cindy
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