Replies

1. 
   Rob_Sp | Apr 05, 2021 12:55pm | #1

   I sometimes lay down a light coat of oil or oil varnish blend to enhance the grain and color prior to a Lacquer or shellac top coat. But 5 coats? If you are getting any build of the oil at all you may have some problems. I would ditch #5 coat and sand the cured coats back a bit before top coating, even with a Seal Coat barrier*. Tung oil is slow to fully cure so I would wait several days.
   Sorry I can't be more definitive, but I have never had any reason to top coat that much oil. Perhaps someone who has actually tried this will chime in.
   * The best advice I can give is if you are unsure of your finish schedule (which you apparently are) , make up one or more test pieces and finish them exactly as you go, it is little trouble, much less than cleaning up a mess and starting over. I'm sure it will delay the completion but you can still do this.
   I hope this has been helpful and best of luck with your project.

2. 
   _mj_ | Apr 05, 2021 01:08pm | #2

   I made a lamp/ accent table and built up tung oil until it became a surface film. It has held up well.

1. 
   Rob_Sp | Apr 05, 2021 01:22pm | #3

   Excellent point. Didn't think to mention it in my reply. He arguably would be better off simply to quit while he is ahead, skip the topcoat and go with the oil alone.

3. 
   user-7839066 | Apr 05, 2021 02:07pm | #4

   I read that six coats made sense. I have been wiping down excess after 45 minutes give or take and rubbing down with 0000 steel wool between coats. My fifth coat was 75/25 tung oil/thinner. There is no buildup at this point. This will be a shelf unit for stereo equipment and records.

4. 
   _mj_ | Apr 05, 2021 03:37pm | #5

   Once the oil (I used Watco) stopped absorbing I put on a straight coat and let it cure without wiping it off, then judged whether to add more. My table is birdseye maple and I got it to a nice smooth finish with no dimples.

5. 
   mikaol | Apr 05, 2021 08:50pm | #6

   Hey,
   I have a finishing business, meaning other woodworkers bring me their projects to finish. They know, except in rare cases, I only work with oils.
   To cut to the chase, if a shine is your ultimate goal, check out Adam Godet's oil finish in FWW mag #269 July/Aug 2018. You may find you don't need a clear coat to have a shine.
   Mikaol

6. 
   Cayman | Apr 06, 2021 10:29pm | #7

   I've been using tung oil for about 20 years with good success after I learned to cut the first coat 50-50. I almost never apply more than 3 coats. I've never put any top coat on it but wax. I don't think adding poly or lacquer would be a good idea.

   I like a flatter sheen than the oil leaves so I knock it down with fine sandpaper or fine steel wool and add one or two coats of wax. Gives me the beauty the oil brings to the grain and the tactile feel of wax. Bob's your uncle.

   I think this finish would work on shelving, or just about anything.

   I've always applied the oil with a woven recycled plastic product I bought at Lee Valley. Rip it apart like steel wool. Unfortunately I'm out of it and LV no longer carries it. Can't find it anywhere.

7. 
   hoovermd | Apr 08, 2021 11:29pm | #8

   I've done lotsa 100% tung and as toothless states I cut the first coat 50% with citrus solvent. I use the 3M white abrasive pads for each coat.
   After about 5 or 6 coats (a weeks worth) usually I am quite happy.
   I typically finish with an oil free 0000 steel wool.

   However, I have some doors and jambs that have in the last 10 years become a bit sticky as the oil seems to be getting pushed out by the humidity cycles here on the SoCal coast...

8. 
   WoodsWoman | Apr 09, 2021 08:04pm | #9

   There is another thread about oil finished shelves and damage to books placed on them. Pure tung oil, records in direct contact might be a problem.

9. 
   user-7839066 | Apr 19, 2021 04:24pm | #10

   I did one final 100% coat. I have let it cure for about five days so far; it is pretty dry but i have noticed that the surface is not as smooth as it was previously. Should i fine sand with 0000 steel wool or finer sandpaper and then poly or wax? I want a smooth satin finish.

10. 
    _mj_ | Apr 19, 2021 04:45pm | #11

    Once it's dry use the 0000 steel wool, but add paste wax as a lube. Tiny swirls leave a nice satin finish.

11. 
    Cayman | Apr 19, 2021 04:50pm | #12

    Yes, use steel wool or fine sandpaper and knock down all the nubs. If you use steel wool take a tack cloth or shop vac and make sure you don't leave any steel particles on the finish. I think if you used wax and steel wool combined you risk leaving tiny particles in the finished product that would be impossible to remove later without a lot of effort.

    Good luck. If you can wait another week to let the oil more fully cure it would be good.

12. 
    Cayman | Apr 19, 2021 04:52pm | #13

    I have read that tung oil takes up to 30 days to fully cure. I've never waited that long myself but the longer the better. Always difficult to wait when you're so close to the end.