I’m making a gift for my grandson made out of mostly Poplar. It’s some nice wood and I would like to maintain the original color without yellowing it as much as possible. I have some Helsman Spar Urethane Clear Satin that I thought would work but it darkens it more than I would like. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,
BobE
Replies
The clearest finish that will add no color to wood will be a waterborne polyurethane. I don't especially like the look on bare wood. But if you're looking for zero color change, it's the way to go.
So both you and bilyo have recommended water based poly. I'm guessing it is clearer than the oil based that I have?
Agree with John. Try some water based poly on some scrap and see if you like it. If not, try a coat of Zinnser's Clear Coat (shellac). Then apply a couple of coats of WB poly over that. The shellac will add just a bit of color and darkening. If you are still not satisfied, Try some blonde shellac in place of the Clear Coat. You may have to order it unless you have a local supplier that carries it. You can also experiment with dye like Transtint until you get the color and shade you like.
So both you and john_c2 have recommended water based poly. I'm guessing it is clearer than the oil based that I have?
Water based polys are the clearest with little if any tone change. Easy to apply and reasonable. Lacquer would be my number two choice.
It's the oil component of film finishes that yellows. If it's a small object, I'd consider using rattle can lacquer for ease of application.
How old is your grandson?
Are you trying to make a safe nontoxic finish like Montessori toys?
As far as ambering goes
Oil and water based polys are very different.
Water cleans up easily but use some care applying it. It doesn’t like to be moved around as much as oil once applied. I find spraying it works best. But you have no instant ambering and clean up is a breeze. Not to mention no obnoxious fumes this is great in a kitchen or classroom. I applied some water poly over my painted white kitchen cabs to make them safe for the mrs to scrub. they yellowed in uv here in hawaii. Took about a year or so. I’ve found a very nice white lacquer from sherwin Williams.
Lacquer is a great finish. Probably my favorite to use. Have had great results with ml Campbell magnalac.
Shellac is a good finish with wax overtop. Dries quickly and is a great finish.
Your post almost sounds like Montessori toys. It is essentially a food grade finish. Lots of ways to achieve it with special non toxic paints or like a cutting board finish. Mineral oil bath and beeswax mineral oil paste on top.
Thanks for all the replies/suggestions. I ended up using Minwax water-based poly with a satin sheen. The surface ended up not quite as smooth as I'm used to but achieved the transparent results I was looking for.
BobE
Minwax dries really fast and does not level like oil finishes. I apply 3-4 coats then smooth by wet sanding with 400 grit. If you want more shine, use polishing cloths with higher grits.
CAB-Acrylic would be my choice for long term non-yellowing finish. Sherwin Williams has it, but you may have to special order it. Mohawk Finishing Products will also have it. For small jobs you can use the Mohawk Aerosol version. You can self seal with CAB-Acrylic. Just about any finish with urethane resins will yellow over time, as will finishes with nitrocellulose resins. Although I don't think that is always a bad thing. Yellow poplar is a cool colored wood anyway.
I know you a have finished the project, but to document for others who might read this thread - I’ve had great results with High Performance from General Finishes. I spray with HVLP and it gives a nice smooth finish with little to no color change. I use gloss and then knock back the sheen with a grey abrasive pad.