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What clear finish would you recommend for pine window frames (interior) and doors. The posts and beams (timber frame home)and tongue and groove pine ceiling have been finished with Benjamin Moore “Antique Oil” which is a discontinued product comprised basically of linseed oil (I think). I would like the window frames and doors to have a similar amber colour. Specifics as to brands, number of coats, and any application tips would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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Replies
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For windows you need something pretty durable, since unlike the rest of the trim, they get more UV light, and also more moisture from condensation, etc. I think a traditional spar varnish would be about the most durable finish and would have the amber coloration of linseed oil. I don't think you'd need the full six coats needed for marine applications, but I would put on at least three. If you don't like high gloss, then you could add some flatting agent to the final coat, or just rub it down with gray 3-M pads after it has cured for a couple of weeks. If you have "dust" nibs, rub them out with very fine sandpaper--800 grit or 1200 grit before using the 3-M pads.
*"If you don't like high gloss, then you could add some flatting agent to the final coat, or just rub it down with gray 3-M pads after it has cured for a couple of weeks"OR just get satin spar varnish. Saves a lot of work.
*I am building a workshop for my artist son in a mountain community that gets lots of rain. Because I have a large supply of cherry on hand I plan to trimthe building with cherry, and perhaps side it with mahogoney which we also have on hand. The problem is simple: I would like to use a natural finish rather than paint to show off the wood. Is there any finish that will work better than spar varnish? I have not had good luck with spar varnish in Florida and I assume that I would not have better results up north.
*I am building a table & chair set for my grandchildren out of white pine and there are quite a few knots in the wood. I would like to put a clear finish on my project and was wondering about the knots. Please help!
*Satin spar varnish per Gretchen
*For the Cherry trim and Mahogany siding (seems like a waste) consider a Sikkens penetrating oil finish. Do an internet search....Good luck.
*In regards to reducing "high gloss" in a topcoat, what do you mean by a flatting agent? I haven't heard the term before or seen advertisements for a product. Can you recommend a product and where one can purchase it? I typically use several coats of high gloss "poly" followed by the final coat of either semi-gloss or satin to reduce lustre.
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