Replies

1. 
   creekwood | Aug 28, 2003 05:20am | #1

   I've attached paper faces to metal dial pans before with a can of spray adhesive, and it worked great. I believe it would with your application, also. Artists sometimes use a spray fixative for charcoal or pastel pictures. This might work to seal the paper.

   Hope this helps

2. 
   RoyinMD | Aug 28, 2003 08:07pm | #2

   If the paper clock face is from your home computer and printer I would take it to the copy store and have it copied on a high quality thicker card stock. Then just attach it with acid free double sided tape.

   If you have to work with what you got attach the paper to card stock the same way.

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   BertJ | Aug 28, 2003 10:25pm | #3

   I don't recommend using anything printed on an ink-jet printer unless you use archival inks (which are only available on certain printers). The regular ink will quickly fade and you will be unhappy with the results. Color laser jet printers work fine. Check out a local Kinko's for a good quality color copy.

   BJ

3. 
   jonsherryl | Aug 29, 2003 11:10pm | #4

   I use a lot of paper dials in my Shaker style clocks. The face plates Iuse are ordinary plywood as opposed to the metal pans in other styles of mantle clocks...and also the "paper" dials I use are printed on relatively heavy (almost cardboard thickness) stock...about like the stock used in 3X5 index cards..

   Anyway, I've always been able to get away with using my Titebond. I spread it very thin and allow it to tack up a little before mounting the dial...to minimize the risk of bleed through...And as soon as the dial is positioned, I weight it down with a piece of flat plywood and an old 15 LB anvil...so that the dial can't curl or wrinkle while the glue sets.

   I suppose you could use rubber cement as do most artists, but just the thought of all the heat I'd catch borrowing the wife's rubber cement has discouraged me from experimenting in that direction.

   As for a top sealer, I've used spray shellac a time or two...but I usually leave my paper dials unsealed, since I like the aged look they develop around the edges when they are allowed to oxidize.