I could sure use some help with cockbeading. I have built and joined a set of 5 drawers, which are flame grain cherry veneer over cherry core, with a red maple counter veneer. These were resawn, and are fairly thick, as veneers go. Total thickness of the drawer fronts is about 15/16″. The sizes range from 8 1/8 x 46 to 4 1/4 x 22 in. overall face size. Now I would like to add cockbeading to the perimeters of these drawers.
My thinking is that I would like the cockbeads to be a different color (although not necessarily different wood) than the drawer fronts, darker, I think. So, should I plan to stain and finish them first, before installing?
Is there a standard size? How deep into the face should I rabbet? What width should I use. How high above the drawer front surface should I be? I would prefer not to nail them; is there a gluing strategy here? I have a vacuum press, and the usual assortment of clamps. I have never done this before, and in our home we have no examples of this from which I can borrow.
All help is appreciated!
Alan
Replies
Alan,
...should I plan to stain and finish them first, before installing? I'd at least stain 'em first.
Is there a standard size? No.
How deep into the face should I rabbet? Depends on the thickness of the stock being used for the cockbead, generally it's an 8th, so you aren't milling a rabbet on the face. The rabbet will be on the drawer sides.
What width should I use. The thickness of the drawer face plus the "reveal" of the bead (overhang). On the sides, width is to the pins of your dovetails plus the reveal.
How high above the drawer front surface should I be? Not clear. The cockbead should be flush with the top and bottom edges of the drawer and flush with the sides.
I would prefer not to nail them; is there a gluing strategy here? Yes, I use hide glue and painter's masking tape for clamping.
FWIW.
Dano
Edited 10/21/2002 12:39:55 PM ET by Danford C. Jennings
Thanks for the help! I remain a bit confused. I think it is from my inarticulate use of words such as width and depth.
The cross section of the cockbead is square on 2 adjacent edges, and the other two are a semicircle, I am thinking, and this profile is cut with a rounding-over bit, such as 1/8" bit, cut from both sides. Am I right so far?
I am understanding you to say that the depth that this is inset on the vertical sides of the drawer front, that is, the sides with the dovetails, is equal to the distance from the drawer front to the start of the pins (sometimes called the lap, I think). Am I correct? If so, then is this "depth" of inset the same on the tops and bottoms of the drawer fronts?
Is 1/4" (i.e., two 1/8" radii) customary?
All of the cockbeads that I have seen only have the bead (the rounded end) on one end. so the actual beading would look like:
____
____)
For cockbearing the bottom of an inset drawer, most people will make a rabbett into the edge of the drawer front, so the cross section of the drawer front would look like:
| |
| |
| ___|
|__|
The beading material is then glued into the rabbett, and the bottom is planed level with the drawer bottom. With drawers, you can either cockbead only the bottom of the drawer, or you could cockbead all four sides and miter the cockbead where it meets up.
Tom
The attachement should answer your questions....a picture really is worth a thousand words. By the way, Mike Dunbar did an article in the June 2000 (#142) issue of Fine WoodWorking on a Hepplewhite lamp table, he goes into cockbeads pretty well, it too has pictures....
Dano
Source: The Encyclopedia of Furniture Making by Ernest Joyce, Drake Publishers, Inc., pg. 327, Copyright 1970 Ernest Joyce."Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
Thank you so much. I think I needed to plan a bit better (read earlier), as this may affect my half pins. We'll just have to see when I get home and do a bit of measuring. Could be an oops, but the fix, i.e., the problem solving, is at least some of the reson that I enjoy wood.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled