Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 17, 2002 03:51am | #1

   Washing with acetone, sealing with dewaxed shellac, and finish with lacquer works well.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

2. 
   UncleDunc | Dec 17, 2002 09:04am | #2

   Are you sure you need to finish it? The stuff I've worked with takes a pretty nice polish with just sandpaper.

3. 
   Splintie | Dec 17, 2002 09:43am | #3

   I spray lacquer with no trouble at all, without doing the acetone thing.

1. 
   Drewpeacock | Dec 17, 2002 04:25pm | #4

   Lacquer has acetone in it.- O.K. lacquer thinner.<g>

   Don't ya just luv the smell?

   I know it's  no good for you but it always reminds me that a project is nearly finished, Yippee!

   p.s I have used wipe on poly on some with O.K. results too.

   bob

1. 
   Splintie | Dec 18, 2002 10:13am | #5

   I was responding to the post about wiping with acetone first, before lacquering, but i take your meaning.

   And yes, it smells almost as good as it tastes. ;~)

1. 
   Drewpeacock | Dec 19, 2002 04:00am | #6

   One olive or two?

4. 
   Jimma | Dec 19, 2002 06:43pm | #7

   Not that I'm any kind of expert, but I've made a number of small pieces out of cocobolo and my only finish was wax. This Christmas, for example, I made three jewelry boxes with cocobolo sides (tops were figured canary wood) and I used a ROS to 320 grit, hand sanded with the grain using 400 grit, then applied two coats of Rennaisance wax and buffed. You could almost forget the wax, but it does add a lustre and the final feel is, well, smooth as a.... Sure is a lot easier than cranking up the ol' spray equipment for a one-of-a-kind doodad. Why don't you take a little piece and try it?

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 19, 2002 07:49pm | #8

   The reason I wash with acetone is to eliminate the surface wax which gives better penetration of the shellac.  And, the reason I use shellac, is to prevent orange peel when using the lacquer.  If you leave cocobolo in an acetone bath to long, it will leach all the color out.  Once I left a piece in overnight and the next morning it was almost white!  Washing it around for 10 seconds is all thats needed.

   Paste wax works well over the shellac too.  Just depends what appearance you like.  On several occasions, not having any acetone, I have just thrown the pieces in the shellac solution to soak for a while.  The problem with this is that the shellac solution will turn black over time due to the cocobolo color leaching out.  The denatured alcohol used in shellac solutions will dissolve the surface wax as well. 

   Buffing the lacquer with 0000 steel wool and a soft cotton cloth give a nice satin look on Coocbolo, too.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

5. 
   ChasStanford | Dec 20, 2002 03:25am | #9

   COCOBOLO is tailor-made for a wax only finish.  I'd use Liberon's Professional's Wax.  And don't take the Professional label too lightly - this wax will give you a workout.  It's a low-solvent formula that must be used very sparingly and buffed very vigorously and thoroughly, but ohhhhh the results. 

   It's really a shame, in my opinion, to apply a film forming finish to such a hard, heavy, and dense wood that has a wonderful tactile feel and glow with a wax only finish. Or simply leave it natural as somebody else pointed out. 

   Restraint and good taste are your best bet here I think.

   
   

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   Edited 12/19/2002 7:32:54 PM ET by CHASSTANFORD

6. 
   BHerman | Dec 21, 2002 12:44am | #10

   I've used it for picture frames, and used two coats of rubbed teak oil, then paste wax. The oil didn't give any type of "film" appearance, and it has a rich, dark glow - smooth as a baby's bottom!