Replies

1. 
   TomT226 | Dec 08, 2003 03:24pm | #1

   Don't worry about it curing. As long as it's above freezing it'll cure. I've glued lots of stuff when it's in the 40's.  Bring your glue in the house when you're not working so it'll keep warm.  I would go down and get some kind of propane or electric heater to spot heat the area you're working in.  If you can bring in the clamped face fames to a warmer area would be good too.

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 08, 2003 06:31pm | #3

   Thanks, Tom, for the reassurance.

   I've noticed that the glue turns a bit chalky, like Jako mentioned, but seems to hold pretty well. I have an old microwave oven in the shop and pop the glue bottle in there for a few seconds before starting the glue-up.

   Time to get serious about heat in the shop, I guess. Nothing money can't fix, right! (grin)

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   forestgirl | Dec 09, 2003 08:47pm | #8

   Hi Dennis.  New shop's a bit chilly, eh?  I can relate!  I have a propane torpedo heater (35,000BTU) you can borrow if you can fix it.  I'm not smart enough to, and too cheap to spend $50 to have it diagnosed and fixed.

   Anyhoo, how many halogen work-lights do you have?  I set one up while scrollsawing the other night, and was sweating (oh, we women "perspire") within 15 minutes.  forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 10, 2003 06:39am | #9

   Thanks, Jamie, but I'll pass on the gas heater. Being cold is one thing; blowing myself up is another (hehe)

   Yeah, I brought my dual head halogen light stand into the shop this morning to use in spraying the cabinet and you're right - 1000 watts of halogen lighting makes a difference! Would be a cheap way to get some localized heat and light at the same time.

   What's your experience with this hide glue stuff? More open time than tite bond? Strength same as our usual stand-by stuff? I'm willing to try anything once, maybe twice if I get away with it the first time! (haha)

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   forestgirl | Dec 10, 2003 07:17am | #10

   Liquid hide glue has I think about a 10 minute working time.  Hot hide glue, where you mix the dry stuff with water and heat, is very quick to set.  They are both plenty strong, but are not moisture resistant.  Some day I'm gonna try those "rubbed joints" in a picture frame -- use hot hide glue, put it on the ends and rub 'em together and then they stick.  Cool.

   If you work with the liquid hide glue, you'll notice that it gels in 10 mins or so, but stays soft.  That's normal.  Full cure time is a couple days, I think.  I used it on the last jersey case I made.  I liked the ability to tweak the case to 90*s in all 4 corners before the glue set.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

2. 
   jako17 | Dec 08, 2003 04:15pm | #2

   Hi Dennis  I have experienced glue joint failure with Titebond 2 somewhere around 50 -55 F.Only once as that cost me too much in time and design change.(a dozen oak table legs and I had started to cut the aprons to length )The joints just opened ,not fell apart.I cut them apart afterwards.One thing I noticed was the glue went chalky when smeared thinly,it didn't have that rich yellow colour.Now I ensure that my shop temperature stays around 60 during glue up instead of letting it drop to 50 at night.Also ensure that the wood is at glue up temperature.Yes it made me paranoid!

3. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 08, 2003 08:20pm | #4

   Dennis -

   I, too, have had Titebone II go chalky at temps less than 55 degrees.  Less so with Titebond I.

   Also, here in this humid climate I have had problems with 'glue creep' when using Titebond II.  Less so with Titebond !.

   Have you tried the pre-mixed hide glue by Franklin?  I've had real good luck with it. Don't seem to recall any problems with it and cooler temps.  I say 'cooler' as we never have 'cold' temps down here!

   Plus, I have a propane radiant (Infrared) heater that I use whenever the temp gets 60 or less.  Got the heater at Lowe's for $40 and it sets on top of a 20lb propane can.  Great for quickly heating up my 700sq ft shop and it is highly portable.  Minimum fumes.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 09, 2003 07:24pm | #6

   No, never used hide glue, Mike. Might be the time to test it out. So far so good with the yellow tite-bond, though. I'll have to admit I bowed to technology and popped for a bisguit joiner a few days ago so I feel a little better about the structural aspects of the cabinets I'm building. At least positioning is a lot easier.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

4. 
   hepaticus | Dec 08, 2003 10:51pm | #5

   I have had joints fail that were glued with alaphatic resin in cold (not freezing ) temperatures. The glue didn't seem to penetrate the surface of the wood very well, and had a weird, pasty look.

   I don't use it, but isn't polyurethane glue(eg. Gorilla Glue) specified for lower temperature use? You might try that.

   MRY

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 09, 2003 07:27pm | #7

   Hep -

   I've only had one experience with the Polyurethane glues and it was less than an enjoyable one! (grin). While the glue did it's intended thing, it was something of a mess to work with. I think next time I'm in town I'll pick up a small bit of the pre-mixed hide glue Mike suggested and test out a couple pieces overnight to see how well it works. From what I've been reading about it here in the forum, it has a longer open time than tite-bond, no?

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]