Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jan 09, 2010 12:24pm | #1

   I started collecting dust many years ago - apparently a result of not moving quickly enough. ;-)

   I'd agree that a clear finish will bring out the beauty of the wood. If you're going to be serving on the unit, a finish with a high protective value (e.g. an oil-based varnish) is probably the better choice. But, I'm no where close to being a "finish guy". Posting in the finishing section may get you better responses.

1. 
   peharris2 | Jan 09, 2010 12:55pm | #2

   I have made several walnut pieces and always use dewaxed orange shellac for the first two coats. A wash coat first of 1 pound cut and then one of 2 pound cut followed by buffing with 0000 steel wool, cleaning thoroughly to be sure I'm rid of the steel and then wipe on satin poly, 2 coats sanding between coats. The orange shellac really pops the walnut grain.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 09, 2010 01:50pm | #3

   A coat or two of orange shellac is nice on walnut. That's about all I'd use on the base. For the top, as a serving surface I'd add several coats, 5-6 of a good wipe on varnish. Waterlox Original/Sealer comes ready for wiping right from the can and gives a good semi-gloss finish. You can thin other varnishes to wiping consistancy. Good ones include Behlen Rockhard (fairly dark, but very tough), or lighter varnishes such as Pratt & Lambert 38 or Cabot Varnish (8000 series depending on gloss). Thin full strength varnishes about 50-50 with mineral spirits or turpentine to give a good wiping consistency. Ratio is not critical, less thinner means it builds faster, but is a bit more challenging to apply.

   If you do use a polyurethane varnish (not my choice) then the shellac must be dewaxed shellac that you mix from flakes. The varnishes I mentioned don't have polyurethane, and consequently will adhere just fine to shellac which retains it's natural wax.