Replies

1. 
   Shep | Mar 05, 2005 02:52am | #1

   I'm pretty sure there's different versions for different saws.

   I have to find out if there's one for the Festool jigsaw.

1. 
   DDay | Mar 05, 2005 03:45am | #2

   I asked the collins people yesterday about the bosch and festool.  She said that they make one for the old bosch and the festool but not the new bosch.  She said the front on the new bosch it too wide, and the blade release gets in the way.  I really like the festool but I don't know if I want to spend the extra $100.  We'll see.

   Thanks for the reply.

1. 
   Shep | Mar 05, 2005 06:14am | #3

   I was undecided about the Festool for a while, too. I finally got really frustrated trying to make a cut in some heavy material that would be 90 deg to the face with my older Bosch. So I broke down and got the Festool. I figure it should be the last jigsaw I buy.

1. 
   DDay | Mar 06, 2005 06:58pm | #5

   What did you have for a bosch jig, 1587?  How much do you like the festool?  What are some of the pro's and con's and is it worth the $260?

   I'm looking for something that is quality.  I like the new bosch (a little annoyed it won't run the collins) but if its worth it, I'm open to going up to the festool.  I really like a few of the tools but I don't know if the price is worth it.  The festool cordless drill is $400 while you could get a 5 pack cordless set from bosch for only $500 (the jig saw, drill, circ saw, flash light and recip).

1. 
   Shep | Mar 07, 2005 02:41am | #6

   Yeah, my old one was the 1587 top handle. Its a decent saw, but i was getting frustrated with the blade wander.

   I looked at the new Bosch, but when I talked to the salesman at a local tool supplier, he said the Festool will make squarer cuts than even the new Bosch. I decided to get the barrel handled Festool Trion jigsaw.

   I've only had The Festool about 2 weeks now, and haven't really used it very hard yet, but so far I'm pleased with it. I cut some 5/4 oak with it, and it had plenty of power, and the cuts were 90 deg. to the face. I got some of the stiffer blades Festool has for radius cuts; they're not supposed to wander like some of the regular blades. I'll save them for critical cuts. 

   Pro's- its a high quality jigsaw that should last me the rest of my career, 15 years or so.So far, it does everything its advertised it can do. Plus, it takes regular Bosch blades.

   Con's- the price, as you are aware. The case seems a little tight, and I'm not crazy about the handle placement- its on the "lid" of the box, not the side. Minor things, but worth mentioning.

   This is probably the only Festool product I will ever buy- not that the others aren't good tools, but there are other alternatives that aren't as pricey. Right now, I don't think there's another jigsaw with the same abilities out there.

    

    

2. 
   DDay | Mar 07, 2005 04:08am | #7

   Thanks for the reply, great info.  You answered the most important question to me, the blade wandering.  I figured the power would be fine but 90 degree cuts is a must, worth the extra $$ just to avoid years of annoyance.  I also think the jig saw is the only festool I'll really consider.  The $160 for a Bosch vs $260 for a festool isn't too bad but the other festool tools are just much too high vs. Bosch, porter cable and milwaukee.  Thanks again.

    

    

3. 
   chills1994 | Mar 09, 2005 11:25am | #8

   i got the collins coping foot to fit my new porter cable jig saw. 

2. 
   pagoda | Mar 06, 2005 08:12am | #4

   i own a new bosch and an old metabo. needless to say, the metabo now runs the collins foot. i guess my take is that if you need the collins foot then you proly can use two jigsaws... and i do love the festool stuff, but i doubt i wold spring for the jigsaw and then put a coping foot on it.

   just my late night thoughts.

3. 
   cowtown | Mar 21, 2005 09:21am | #9

   I too have quandried over this device. Does it actually save time over manual coping methodology in the bigger picture?

   I can see how they could be benificial in new construction, but what about Bay windows, ie 45 degree sutuations, or even off angles on walls.

   I note that there are a couple of router based coping devices/jigs availabale now, for coping, and wonder if they have the capapility of dealing with off square situations, either floor or wall, or whether yer still gonna have to manually cope for those situations.

   If that is the case, is it cost effective to support two (or more) methodolgies of "coping" which might, in toto, actuall slow down the process instead of producing more efficiency.

   Eric in Calgary