Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 25, 2010 01:47pm | #1

   A quick look at Sherwin Williams web pages shows pigmented conversion varnish. I haven't used this product so can't make a specific recommendation. I'm assuming from your post that you have suitable facilities for spraying such hazardous products safely, both for yourself and your "neighbors".

1. 
   neilpuck | Jan 25, 2010 01:57pm | #2

   Steve, shortly after I posted this i saw the pigmented CV from SW. I think I'll go that route, as it will kill three birds with one stone. One board suggested it could be used as a primer as well. The last place I sprayed, I did have an exhaust system with filtration, I will have to get something similar in my new digs. The stuff is heavy, you usually need ventilation low. I doubt that the neighbors would like it if I vented it right through to the sidewalk. I'll figure it out. Safety is optional anyway, right. :)

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 25, 2010 02:02pm | #3

   I do suggest you read the MSDS. If the ingredient list doesn't suggest caution, there are specific cautions given.

1. 
   neilpuck | Jan 26, 2010 05:16pm | #4

   Thanks, I've used the
   Thanks, I've used the water-white CV before, I'm aware of the safety precautions. Respirator, spray booth and ventilation. We only get one set of lungs right?

2. 
   Westchester | Jan 27, 2010 11:52am | #5

   After the white lacquer - long curing period - you will be able to polish up to a high gloss.

   I don't know the long term effects of CV over lacquer -

   I would be careful before going in that direction

   SA

3. 
   Zahn2 | Feb 08, 2010 10:02am | #6

   What species of wood are you painting? CV is limited to 4-5 mils dry film thickness which means you shouldn't be using it on an open pore wood for a high gloss finish unless you fill the pores first (The finish can check badly if you exceed this). SW makes a white vinyl sealer which they recommend as a primer under the white CV. I would use that. CV is VERY temperature sensitive, don't use it or allow it to cure for 48 hours in temps under 65 degrees (Cold checking is your payoff here). I would use a 2k polyurethane finish myself and if it is an open pore wood I would use polyester as my primer.