Hi Peter,
I’ve got a little bit different problem with coloring black walnut. I’ve seen lots of discussion and advice on blending in color of sapwood, and warming up gray, run of the mill kiln dried walnut.
I’ve got a lot of really really nice (sorry for the mini gloat) black walnut (pic attached) that I’m using to build a frame and panel bed. As you can see, while there is no sapwood, there are two fairly distint groupings of color – some more on the orangey side, and some darker – more purple/more black.
I know the lighter stock is also tiger striped, so there will always be a difference, but with the minumum masking of figure, I’d like to end up with a more uniform (color) look.
Any advice?
Advice I’ve already received is – “hey, its wood! try as best as possible to segregate by color, and don’t put any stain on it….” If you really think thats best, ok, but I was thinking there must be a combination of trans tint dye (or the like) used sparingly, that will make a big difference.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Gordon
Replies
Gordon,
It sounds like you have a nice project going.
Concerning color on wood; it's all a matter of opinion and personal taste. Some are vehemently opposed to dyes, stains etc. for anything. That's their opinion, it doesn't have to be yours.
Personally, I've always enjoyed bringing out the best of what the wood has to offer with color.
In your case working with some dyes, in my opinion, will be very beneficial to the overall look.
You've already got an "eye" by visually dissecting the differences you have to work with. Good for you.
Dyes are one of the most useful ways to unify a background and tie the whole thing together. Plus they are transparent and will never muddy a grain the way a stain such as a gel stain will.
Trans Tints are an easy way to mix up small batches for testing various "looks". Another is to make your own dyes from powder. I would suggest water soluble dyes for your application.
Remember however, don't be fooled by the flat look after the dye has dried. Once the finish is applied to the surface, the color will come alive.
Be sure and make samples for testing colors and apply a coat of sealer to it. This will give you a good reference point. Also be sure you keep track of what you do. It's very easy to forget.
Above all, have fun doing it.
Peter
Peter,
Thanks very much for the encouragement - sounds like I'm going in the right direction. Any advice on starting colors to use? I've got some "dark walnut" and "red mahongany" - am I missing a critical tint - given the colors of the stock, do you think "green" or "honey amber" will help? I'm planning to use Watco (natural) for the protective finish - should I consider a thinned shellac sealer after the dye (I assume I'd use 1# cut of blond, dewaxed flakes), or just go straight to the Watco?
this is the first time I've attempted staining, let alone color matching so sorry if these are silly questions....
Really appreciate your taking time to give advice - THANKS!
Gordon
Gordon,
I was just about to shut down and get to work but since you're already here;
The dark walnut will be on the "cool"(blue or green) side of the spectrum and the red mahogany on the "warm" side (redyellow).
The honey amber will be an orangey color.
I don't have all the trans tints in stock as I usually make my color out of powders so I can't council you on all of their color properties.
However, try using some red mahogany as your base and adding small amounts of the walnut at a time.
An example might be; to a couple of ounces of water add two or three drops of mahogany then one of walnut. Try another just the opposite. Try another with four drops mahogany and one or two of walnut.
If you need to make a purple, it would be red as the main component with minor amounts of blue added.
There is one extra step to be aware of; before dyeing the wood with a water dye, wet it first to raise the grain and sand when dry ( 180 grit will do the trick) Clean all the dust off and you're ready to go.
If you plan on using Watco, skip the shellac.
Take your time as with any new adventure there is always a learning curve.
BTW, there are no silly questions.
Peter
GSM
You are not gloating. You have some nice looking curly walnut. Are you sure you want to make framing/sticking pieces with it? I might be off here?? Perhaps you are using it in the field/panel sections of the piece. That's some nice and unusual stuff. I love to find curly walnut. When I do find the curly walnut, I like to leave it pretty darn close to natural so I can brag on my luck.
You got the big cards. Good Luck
Danmart,
Here's the panel stock - 7 inch wide 4/4 stock that was milled up T&G for flooring....wow, who the heck has flooring like this in their house???
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