Replies

1. 
   Napie | May 16, 2007 01:53am | #1

   Outstanding!!!!!  A couple of questions, How is the sole attached to the sides?  How does the lack of a cap iron work? How much for the completed plane and have you thought about offering a kit version with just the metal parts?

1. 
   Ronaway | May 16, 2007 05:14am | #5

   I much prefer a thicker iron to a thinner iron with cap iron. If the lever cap is properly design and is tuned to hold the iron properly then the whole assemblage of parts is a much more solid unit in my opinion. The cap iron just introduces one more part that has the possibility of creating a problem. The prototype plane used a .140 iron with cap iron. They eject shavings the same, however this plane just feels more solid. Thanks for the kind words.Ron Bresehttp://www.breseplane.comIf you're too open minded your brains will fall out.

2. 
   mvflaim | May 16, 2007 04:30am | #2

   So how much is that baby or is it not for sale yet?

    

1. 
   RyanC | May 16, 2007 04:39am | #3

   Hey, I can answer both of those questions.  The sides are attached to the soles using the integrated rivet system and yes it is for sale.  Here's Ron's website,  http://www.breseplane.com .

    

   -Ryan C.

   Edited 5/15/2007 9:40 pm ET by RyanC

3. 
   chuckh | May 16, 2007 04:59am | #4

   Ron,

   Holy smokes, that thing is all hand plane, and drop-dead gorgeous to boot!  Some day your going to have to tell me how you work your infill to such a perfect finish.

   I can speak firsthand on Ron's plane irons.  I got one of his 1-3/4 inch irons for a project I have planned (as soon as the bathroom gets remodeled).  In the meantime I've been using it in a woodie I built last year.  One word - SWEET! 

   A quarter of an inch thick (no chatter), hollow ground bevel and thick iron makes it easy to sharpen freehand, and that cute little brass button is actually an important safety feature to prevent the blade from slipping through the mouth of the plane.

   Keep up the good work, Ron.

   -Chuck

1. 
   Ronaway | May 16, 2007 05:57am | #6

   Chuck,It really helps to have an infill plane when building an infill plane. The infill really needs to fit to a point where it is almost a suction fit. I typically use one of my small 650-50 smoothers to do the final fitting. As far as the finish is concerned I sand the infills to the same level as the metal which is 400 grit. I then start applying a french polish of dark garnet shellac using lemon oil as the lubricant in the mix. I squirt a bit of shellac on my applicator, add a drop of lemon oil and start polishing, when the applicator starts grabbing I lighten the pressure and then leave it to dry. When you first start you can apply it about every 30 minutes but as the finish starts to build you will need to extend the time between applications. I do a final rubdown with 4/0 steel wool after the finish has cured about three days, this gives the parts a more satin finish which is think is more appropriate on a tool.Ron BreseIf you're too open minded your brains will fall out.

4. 
   Metod | May 16, 2007 02:10pm | #7

   Ron,

   Your plane is just outstanding. The quality of detail and workmanship make your skills truly shine.

   I admire your 'courage' to go cap-less with the bevel-up design. Obviously this must be a result of a careful brain work (analysis) as opposed to just copying old designs.

   Thanks for sharing your knowledge and its result (s).

   Best wishes,

   Metod

1. 
   Ronaway | May 16, 2007 02:56pm | #8

   Thanks Metod, actually this plane is a bevel down design bedded at York pitch. If it was bevel up it would be close to a scraper. I was actually looking to design a plane with a traditional look but at the same time I was trying to integrate some features that would resolve some issues with earlier designs. Hence the larger opening in the tote.Ron BreseIf you're too open minded your brains will fall out.