I have a DeWalt 12″ compound maitre saw. I have always had trouble keeping it “calibrated”. I am finding I have to adjust it fairly frequently to keep it cutting a square cut. I am working on a small furniture piece for my “boss” and have had problems cutting 45’s.
My blade is a 1/8 80 tooth Frued. I have a blade stabilizer and I can get it flat 90 vertical but when I make mitre cut it is is out about 3/32 over 4.25″. I have checked the fence and it is vertical.
The purpose of this post id twofold. I would like to “tune” what I have, but I would also like to know if there is a CMS out there that is better.
Edited 4/20/2006 7:35 pm ET by coolbreeze
Replies
Hey Cool,
I am a contractor with a LOT of miter time under by belt. Just to clarify, you are finding that your 45s are out 3/32" "front to back" or in the vertical?
John
In the verticle.
Also, could you expand on the blade that you are using? 1/8" thick? Yes? Freud= good it's all I use. But they have to be sharp. Also:
1) How old is the saw you are using?
2) Is it yours?
3) Do you let others use it?
Thanks,
John
It's mine and no one else uses it. It should be fairly sharp, but I can tell it takes a little more "pressure to meake a cut. The cut is always very smooth.
OK:
One last question, are you right handed or left?John
I am right handed.
OK:
1) My first suggestion would be to get a new blade. They do wear and some last longer than others. My rule of thumb is that if I notice how hard I am pushing, the blade is done. sort of like tires, I never really notice how bad the old ones were until I get new ones. 2) All of the SCMS's have a bit of lateral play in them, in particular at full extension.3) DeWalts have been known to have their arbors bend. I have four circular saws to attest to that. Spin the blade by hand, (unplugged) and watch the side of the blade and see if you notice any wobble. Any wobble with the old blade could be a twisted blade, any wobble with the new blade and you have a nice framing saw until it dies. 4) This next one is a bit tough, but do you think "straight"? By that, I mean, do you almost imagine the blade cutting a straight line, or do you reply on the bearings to guide you. If you rely on the bearings, try "thinking straight".5) Get rid of the blade stabilizers and don't use "thin kerf" blades.In conclusion, I think that your blade is shot and is deflecting in the cut as it heats up. As far as better saws go, The DeWalt is good, best guard in the business, hands down. Great tool in the right hands, but the Hitachi and Makita are better saws IMHO.John
John,
The blade is not a thin kerf. You probably are entirely right in that I should replace the blade.
What I mean by straight is that the 4.25 piece is upright against the fence and the saw is set to cut at a 45 degre bevel.
I have checked the blade with the saw square to the fence and also checked the fence. The saw is not 90 degrees verticle in the locked position so I adjust it along the scale until it is. The fence is not precise, but something I can live with. After those checks and adjustments, I turn my saw to 45 with the work piece with the width vertical. After the cut, I check the cut with a square I've proved true and my work is cut with one side about 3/64th longer than the other. One real problem for me is that I'm making feet for the cabinet and using splines. That compounds the problem.
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