Replies

1. 
   RW | Mar 28, 2004 12:23am | #1

   On a chop saw, you just end up clamping a block to the bed to hold things at 90 and you rotate the work - think of cutting the 22 for a flag box (actually 67.5) - so on a tablesaw to rotate the work, you build an auxillary fence to hold the stock steady while standing on edge. Featherboards help keep the bottom from kicking out, and a 0 clearance insert is a really good idea to keep thin edges from heading south and ruining your day.

   "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain

1. 
   user-6494 | Mar 28, 2004 01:45am | #3

   Thanks RW . while waiting, my brain finally kicked into gear, & you reinforced my thoughts. I will cut the bevel first @90degrees , clamp it to a vertical sled< back off from 45 degrees to make the desired cut.  Thanks again

                                                                                                 pin

2. 
   Norse | Mar 28, 2004 12:35am | #2

   hmmmmmmmm.... the table I use, the blade angle decreaces as the angle of the work increaces. A 5 degree box, the miters are cut 44.75 and the miter gauge is at 5 (or 85 depending on how you look at it. A 20 degree box, the blade angle is 41.75 and the miter gaure is at 19.25 (or again 71.25). Where are you getting your numbers? I've attached a Word file with the table I use. Good luck!

   Norse

   
3. 
   dedge | Mar 28, 2004 05:22pm | #4

   When cutting Interior Crown Molding & have a acute angle I Use a 5"x5"x6" block Which Has a 45 deg. angle cut on the end place it against the fence subtract 45 from the angle I need & set the miter at that angle I use a angle finder to get the original angle I hope this might help

4. 
   Brewster201 | Mar 30, 2004 03:42pm | #5

   Hi pin, check this site out. You can download free trialware for shop math .

   http://www.woodworkinginfo.com/

   Bruce