I am hoping that someone here at the forum can help…….the archives didn’t bring up table that I could reference.
I’m building a deck, and a fence, both of which will surround my new hot tub. The fence is nothing more than the railing of the deck, but taller (6 feet from the deck to the top) to allow privacy.
The fence/railing has 6X6 posts, 1X6 vertical pickets, vertical 1X4’s as trim applied to the face of the pickets at the left and right end of each section, and a 2X8 laid flat on top as a “topper”.
In addition, I am adding crown just under the topper. The crown goes between the pickets and the toppers; and between the 1×4 vertical trim and the topper. I am using returns, so that two sides of each 1X4 are wrapped with crown. (If necessary, I could post a picture of a completed section.)
There is a section of the fence/railing that is not as tall, and which then becomes the sloped railing to a small stairway. The 2X8 “topper” in this section is the stairway railing. I need to add the crown molding to this sloped section of the fence. (If necessary, I could post a picture — sans the crown.)
I’ve done just fine with the compound angles to wrap the 1X4’s in the square sections — there are only two basic angles involved. The angle of the crown to the face of the pickets is 45 degrees, and the angle of the corners being wrapped is 90.
Adding crown under the stair railing adds a third basic angle to the mix — and this leaves me without a clue.
The crown is still at 45 to the face of the pickets. (And the topper is at 90 to the pickets — the pickets and the topper are very much like a wall and a ceiling.)
The corners being wrapped are (obviously) still at 90.
The railing is 21 degrees from horizontal. (But the posts, the pickets, and the 1X4’s are still vertical — making this a bit like adding crown to a vaulted ceiling).
I have a dual compound sliding saw — capable of just about anything. But I have no idea what miter and bevel angles to set for this.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Edited 7/14/2003 11:23:55 AM ET by YesMa’am
Replies
[BUMP] C'mon guys, help him out! Heaven knows I can't!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG: Thanks a million for keeping my question near the top of the list. You're a peach.
Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
If you are trying to miter crown from level area to a slope you can't. Either return the crown on itself or add a plinth block to break the intersecting angle.If the molding is just a large cove it is possible to get acceptable results with this configuration. If you are using a crown with a cove and ogee and flat steps then I would stop the crown with a transition piece (plinth block). Many times a 5/4" block is used for the plinth.
The intersection would look best if the plinth stood proud of the mitered corner.
Mike
"If you are trying to miter crown from level area to a slope you can't."
That's what I was beginning to believe. The longer I thought about it, the more impossible it seemed to me.
But I had also posted the question over at Breaktime. One of the guys there replied that JLC (The Journal of Light Construction) had just published an article showing four separate methods. Some of the four involve plinth blocks as you suggested.
If you're interested enough to spend the five bucks for the article, it is located at:
http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/3f13177a003fb4c0271a401e1d29060c/Product/View/0307runn
Thanks a bunch for your input -- people like you are what keep these forums alive and vital.
Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
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