How do I find out what nozzle size to use in a HVLP conversion gun for the apporpriate product. I plan on using lacquer and shellac mostly. The gun says the average air consumtion is 8.8cfm. Air pressure is 50psi. I think I may be in trouble already. My compressor is 5hp (actual) 120 psi and a 25 gal tank. It has a 1.0mm nozzle now and is gravity fed.
Thank you
Replies
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You didn't say what type of conversion gun you are using but you can find the Wagner HVLP Converion Manual here:
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/gleempaint/conversiongun.pdf
See page 5 for projector sets and suggestions for various viscosity materials. A #2 or #3 would probably be what you need.
Edited 6/23/2006 10:27 pm ET by AuroraCA
If the tank is only 25 gal, spraying a big job will cause problems. When the compressor runs a lot, you're going to have a lot of moisture coming out of the nozzle. 50psi for a conversion gun sounds high to me.
It says 50psi on the box. I may give things a shot soon and let everyone know how things come out. No pun intented.
Where did you get the gun? The manual will (should) have some instructions for different materials. If it doesn't, the material will have info for getting the best finish (aperture, air flow rate, pressure, viscosity, etc).
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I got the gun on EBAy. Here is the only info provided.
Average Air Consumtion: 8.8 CFM
Cup Capacity: 125CC
Nozzle Size: 1.0MM
Fluid Delivery: 190MM
Air Pressure: 50PSI
Air Inlet: 1/4" nps
The operating instructions describe it as a "Model USGH Mini HVLP Gravity Spray Gun.
It also says that "At the entrance pressure of 43PSI and more at the air inlet, the internal nozzle pressure exceeds 10 PSI."
I think I may have hosed myself in purchasing something with out investigating it further. As soon as I get an air regulator for the compressor I am going to try and shoot something and see what happens. If it is not a viable item I have me to blame and no one else.
Thank you
Look on the Harbor Freight site and look for a similar gun. If it's the same one, I have the Harbor freight model and it works pretty well and since they're all made in the same place, yours should, too. I have a 7 HP (yeah, I know) 60 gal model and unless I spray continuously for a long time, I have no problems. I now have a larger water separator/filter and that should help a lot. Even with a larger tank, it needs to be filtered really well. As pressure drops, the air cools and moisture condenses, doesn't matter how big it is. The small plastic filters that go right at the gun work pretty well but I'm not going to take any chances.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
do the terms "HVLP" and "gravity fed" go together? Not in my understanding. My HVLPs are all pressure fed, I figured by definition.
In any case, they are all also 1mm and I have had no problem spraying anything other than thick paints, and even they, thinned 10% or so, will spray OK.
Small tank? Water condensation problems? Get a water filter or better yet, move to water based lacquers, they are all we use these days. You should still have a water filter of course, but in one case I can remember a bead of sweat dropping on a large table top and simply evaporating, a little more slowly, but completely, leaving a perfect finish (I top coated again anyhow, for good measure). Try that with solvents!
Your tank should be good enough to run a true HVLP gun, 43 psi in, 5-7 out.
good luck
j
http://www.riverwoodworks.com custom cabinetry and canoes
High volume low pressure has nothing to do with gravity, siphon or pressurised feed of the material. Whether the reservoir is above or below the gun is more of a personal preference.
As far as your other points:
Tank size is irrelevant as long as your compressor stays within it's duty cycle rating. The only advantage of a bigger tank is a longer period of use before the pump comes on. Once the pump comes on that is how much air you have i.e. the amount of air the pump will produce.
All compressors produce contaminated air, whether it be rust or other particles, oil, water or whatever. I have a whole new perspective of looking at your work knowing that you apparently think it's OK to have a drop of water with lord knows whats in it contaminate your finish.
The assertation that one can spray virtually any finish with one size needle,orfice and aircap is like saying you can apply any finish you want using a chip brush. It may be acceptable for something viewed from 10 feet away but good enough for someting called fine furniture? Or a piano, automobile?
One should match the tools to the results one expects to achieve.
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
As I use a water based lacquer, a clean drop of water that evaporated cleanly does not bother me. Beleive me, if it is not a perfect finish, I lose sleep. My finishes are flawless, or they don't leave the shop.http://www.riverwoodworks.com custom cabinetry and canoes
I just read your cup capacity - you should have no problem at all getting through that much material without losing power.
http://www.riverwoodworks.com custom cabinetry and canoes
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