Replies

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Mar 18, 2005 08:28pm | #1

   Are the doors recessed 3/8" or are the doors 3/8" thick?

   Lee

   MontanaFest
2. 
   notDusty | Mar 19, 2005 12:31am | #2

                     bldrbill ,

                             Myself and a few of my ww pals have tried over and over to use euro hinges on 3/8" lip doors without ever finding a hinge combination that works , sorry but unless someone here has an answer I think you are out of luck on this one .

                    dusty

3. 
   155 | Mar 19, 2005 01:31am | #3

   why the hell would someone make inset doors out 3/8 ply???? anyway the only way conceled hinges will work is if they are not the kind that have a cup, try woodwookers supply they have some you just screw on. good luck, those doors should be warping shortly

1. 
   Fingrs | Mar 19, 2005 11:28pm | #9

   Those screw-on hinges from Woodworkers Supply are not good.  I used them for a medicine cabinet and had a heck of a time getting them installed and adjusted (they're cheap, and you get what you pay for).  After less than 6 months my client called to say one of the hinges is failing. 

   I shoulda used a piano hinge in the first place... 

1. 
   cicero | Mar 21, 2005 08:54pm | #10

   No,you should have used Grass,Blum etc,the top end jobbies.

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Mar 19, 2005 03:19am | #4

   Blum says that their 170 degree cup hinge can do this.    http://www.wwhardware.com/media/products/apcharts/blum170special.pdf

   Okay, their illustrations are for a Euro-style cabinet, but you can add blocking behind your face frame to provide the mounting plane their mounting plate wants.

    

1. 
   JohnG | Mar 22, 2005 11:36pm | #12

   the blums work fine for this application. I made new doors for a vanity  and used that blums 170* hinges, clip and spacer.  I had to make blocks to even out the face frame

5. 
   bldrbill | Mar 19, 2005 04:10am | #5

   The doors are 3/4 thick with a lip all the way around so that they are inset 3/8 into the face frame.  Thanks to all for your suggestions.  I'll check out the Blum hinge.

1. 
   cicero | Mar 19, 2005 08:11pm | #8

   Sorry I missed that they were 3/4",you will have no problem.

   Go to supplier tell them what you want,they will give you appropriate hinge and base plate.

6. 
   cicero | Mar 19, 2005 09:33am | #6

   The holes to take the hinge is 12 mm deep on the ones I have seen,so would go right through the door.

   I would try the Blum or Hafele agents to see if they do such a hinge.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/19/2005 2:34 am ET by Cicero

7. 
   ring | Mar 19, 2005 05:21pm | #7

   You can get there using a Blum hinge designed for full overlay  (about 5/8"), but instead of the usual baseplate you substitute a plate that is about 1/4" thicker.  They make a variety of baseplate heights which come in handy for such things.  If you cannot get hold of a higher baseplate just make a spacer out of wood.  This will work with several of the opening angles, 110 - 170 degrees. 

   DR

1. 
   notDusty | Mar 22, 2005 07:04am | #11

                ring ,

                      The problem will not be solved with a thicker base plate , it is the relation of the backside of the door to the cabinet face that needs address . Please if you can make this work not on paper but on a real piece of wood post the exact part numbers of the hinges and base plates . IMHO you may not understand the problem, I have been over and over this but never been able to come up with the correct combination . It would be real handy to solve this application but all the suppliers I have asked had no solution . All overlay door backs are more or less flush to the front of the face . On a 3/8" lip door the backside of the door is 3/8" back from the face . Then the pivot point changes the aspects drastically. At first it seems as though there is an easy fix , but I'm not so sure that is reality here on this one , sorry to disagree with your post , maybe you can teach this old dog a new trick .

                                      dusty

1. 
   mike4244 | Mar 23, 2005 01:42am | #13

   I actually spent an entire day experimenting with different brands, mounting plates etc. As far as I know it can't be done.

   another old dog

   mike

1. 
   notDusty | Mar 23, 2005 07:01am | #14

                Hey Old Dog ,

                      Even though the above post claims it can be done , I tried the 170 degree hinge and there was no way it would even come close to working . I do love a challenge but this application is a losing proposition . Thank you for concurring , I really don't like to sound negative or in any way discourage others from experimenting and learning . After all , IMO that is the benefit of this forum . And this old dog lives to learn new tricks .

                            talk to you more later

                                      regards               dusty old dog

2. 
   ring | Mar 23, 2005 05:52pm | #15

   Dusty,

   I appreciated your scepticism about making it work.  However, I am kind of an old dog myself, and I actually did a kitchen this way a few years back.  So I knocked up a mock-up in the shop today  and took photos so you can see for yourself.

   The frame member is 3/4" thick, with a 3/8"x 3/8" rabbet.

   Hardware:  Blum INSERTA CLIP hinge with 170 deg. opening, FULL OVERLAY (Blum part # 71.6540)

                      Blum Cruxiform 2-part baseplate w/ 9mm spacing (Blum part #175H9190)

                      Shim made of 3mm masonite.  In a real application I would make this spacer from something inconspicuous.

   The hole for the hinge cup needs to be drilled 1 mm in from the edge of the rabbet.  The mounting holes for the baseplate are 47 mm in from the edge.

   What do you say?

   DR

    

   
1. 
   mike4244 | Mar 23, 2005 09:57pm | #16

   Thanks, I didn't think it could be done. This old dog just learned a new trick.

   mike

2. 
   notDusty | Mar 23, 2005 11:39pm | #17

       ring ,

                   Very cool indeed . I guess for the original posters application where there is a face frame with the surface mounted 3/8 " lip hinges , you would increase the thickness of the spacer block until it is correct , figuring that there is a reveal behind the face , is that right ?

              Thanks for taking the time and energy to share this great trick , my tail is wagging and my fleas are itching .

                   regards              dusty

                    

1. 
   ring | Mar 24, 2005 05:30pm | #18

   dusty,

   Actually, if the cabinet is not too large I would probably make a  false inner wall just to get a clean look.  It would need to be blocked out to make up for whatever the face frame needs + another 3mm.  Can even be made removable if necessary by hiding screws underneath the hinge baseplates.  If the cabinet is really large and I needed to skimp on the extra wood, it could be done only on the front 4" or so, not the entire cabinet depth.

   DR

8. 
   chelsealk | Feb 14, 2022 08:50am | #19

   This thread is very old, but if anyone comes across it and still needs it Salice makes a euro hinge for a 3/8" inset rabbeted door. They have one for both a face frame and frameless. Rockler currently sells them.