Replies

1. 
   wundernaloud | Dec 08, 2004 10:36am | #1

   There's a tappered spade bit that is usually used with a hand brace that might get you close.

2. 
   DennisS | Dec 08, 2004 10:52am | #2

   Machinists use tapered reamers that might provide approximately the same degree of draft on the hole. Drill the smaller 1/4" diameter hole first then run the reamer down to get the taper.

   ...........
   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
   Dennis
3. 
   ian | Dec 08, 2004 12:22pm | #3

   I think the easiest way would be to use a lathe

1. 
   budreaux | Dec 08, 2004 04:43pm | #4

   Sorry, I should have added the stock would be about 30Lx4Wx6D. 

4. 
   jako17 | Dec 08, 2004 05:30pm | #5

   Use hard maple ,then drill 1 1/4 pilot through .Rent a spiral reamer for black iron pipe from the rent all and GENTLY holding back on the self feeding characteristics ream it out.I think the taper is approx. what you want

5. 
   Peter36 | Dec 08, 2004 10:48pm | #6

   Are the holes 2 1/2 inches in diameter, 5 inches deep, and have a bottom diameter of 1 1/4 inches? If so I have absolutely no idea. Spade bit? No. Lathe? No. Reamer? Only if it was custom made. Sorry.

1. 
   budreaux | Dec 08, 2004 11:33pm | #7

   Yep.  I am going to have to go to the cane fields of Mexico.  I'm guessing they have a custom boring tool for this.  Wifey will not have a center-piece anytime soon.

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 09, 2004 09:03am | #11

   Tree -If all she's looking for is a centerpiece, presumably in which to put candles, ....Get a block of wood the requisite size, drill the requisite number of holes at the proper diameter at the top, fill the holes with candles and ....Voila! What's the hype about the taper?(grin)...........
   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
   Dennis

1. 
   budreaux | Dec 09, 2004 09:32pm | #14

   Hehehehe.  That seems too easy. Why didn't I think of that.  Muchas Gracias!  I'm sure straight candles are easier to get anyway.

6. 
   tcalisto | Dec 09, 2004 12:23am | #8

   Treefreak,

   I can't think of a commercially available reamer that could produce the tapered hole  that you need. Even the reamers that produce the tapered sockets in Windsor chair seats would be too small.

   I think your best bet would be to lay out the centers for your holes on the stock. Scribe the  large diameters onto the piece and then bore through for the small diameter. Break out a gouge and pare from your scribed line to the small diameter. To finish the bore turn a cone to the taper that you need. Wrap sand paper around the cone and clean it up that way or you could try making a reamer.

   No guarantees on the effectivity of this tool but I think that it would probably work better than the sandpaper and cone method. Turn a cone to the taper and diameter that you need on one end of a piece of hardwood and on the other end bore a hole through it at a right angle to the axis for a handle. Run a snug fitting groove down the length of the cone for a jointer knife or other suitable cutting edge. Try to keep the projection of the knife down to a minimum so that the cone will guide the taper you are cutting. Bore through as before with the small diameter and then follow up with your new reamer.

    

   Good luck,

   Tom

1. 
   Peter36 | Dec 09, 2004 12:25am | #9

   Very wise indeed

7. 
   patternmaker | Dec 09, 2004 01:05am | #10

   According to my calculations,the angle of the holes is 7.125 degrees.If the job is that important,you can have a standard 10 degree router bit reground to this angle. Make a collar to go between the chuck and the top of the bit to serve as a guide. I make these collars by taking the smallest .500"I.D.bearing available and adding a turned collar with the required angle to serve as the guide.
   Make the mold of multiple boards of a thickness that can be routed with the length of the bit.
   Rout the large hole first,use it as a template for the next smaller hole and so forth.When all plies are assembled,a tapered sanding block should finish up the job. A lot of fooling around,but there is almost always a way to do any job.Thank you,Mr.Croney,where ever you may be.
   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/8/2004 5:08 pm ET by Pat

8. 
   Vikingvood | Dec 09, 2004 06:46pm | #12

   If you know someone in your area that has a metal lathe with a taper attachment this  is a simple job. If you lived closer to me i would do it for you. I have a 1930's metal lathe  & the taper attachment allows you to set the degrees or taper per foot or inch but is limited to 18" max depth or legth.

9. 
   migraine | Dec 09, 2004 09:04pm | #13

   Try here.  Ebay has a few other if you type in Mexican sugar mold    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=16106&item=4342088805&rd=1

    

10. 
    user-6148267 | Jul 21, 2017 04:24pm | #15

    I used forstner bits to create my holes. Starting with a 2-inch making a quarter inch cut and then gradually stepping down in bit size. The sides are not smooth but for the purposes of decor no one will ever know it's not original. I also used old cracked redwood fence post. I felt this would be softer and easier to work with and for Decor purposes Oak is not needed. I cut the sides of the post with a 10 degree angle then just distressed it with a hammer, wire brush and chisels. After sanding I used Minwax dark wax. The final product turned out beautiful