Connecting wooden boards to the ceiling
Hello,
another “commission” from my wife and I am a little bit confused what would be the best way to solve this problem. Basically, there are a bunch of electrical cables that have to be hidden in a wooden “box” on the ceiling. There will be two holes for the small lamps as well.
My idea is to put three plans (oak, maybe 20 mm thick) and first connect them to the ceiling (concrete) with angle connectors and screws. On the bottom there will be the third board closing the “box” and allowing for two holes for the lamps.
Biggest concern is that planks are about 1.6 m long so they will flex and will not be completely straight. So some fine tuning has to be done, but I am not sure if I am able to plane something above my head and close to the wall/column.
Thanks.
Replies
Make it a four side box with a removeable bottom.
Put a plank on the ceiling from end to end and build a 3-sided box to slip around it. You'll be able to fasten along the entire length and get it nice and snug to the ceiling.
If you recess the lower surface you could add some edge detail to snazz it up. I'd probably make it 1/2" shy of the wall width on both sides.
Came to say this. Seconded.
Better still, make it a a 4 sided box with the fourth plank on one side, this way you can run your wires and set your fixtures properly and close the one open side at the end. That will involve drilling the ceiling at an angle.
From the photograph it appears that those dangling wires were once covered behind some type of probably approved,probably metal housing and someone removed it . What your proposing doing violates an astonishing number of code requirements.
A pretty standard way to deal with concrete construction like you have is a dropped ceiling and all that ugly utility stuff can hide up there.
I'd be curious to find out what sort of load those wires are carrying. The look odd to be high voltage. ButbI don't know what country, state or municipality you are posting from. Some places code is wonky and soft. Other place such as where I live, that would break codes. Namely all wires in conduit. Even low voltage. It doesn't look like the came out of conduit.
Barring a code violation I'd do exactly as MJ suggested. I've done exactly that but I was hiding conduit.
I think non-metalic sheathed cable (Romex) meets national code in the US for household wiring, but local codes may be different. Chicago, I believe for example, requires conduit everywhere. There appear to be a number of wire junctions there and if any part of it is household voltage, it needs to be in an approved junction box to meet US national code I believe. Low voltage may be different. I don't know.
Agreed, if it's high voltage. You are right about Chicago code. And most of the burbs, like mine, requires conduit. If it is low voltage that gets comparatively loose pretty fast.
4.5 feet is not that long. Make the bottom cover thicker and nothing will flex at all.
I wouldn't use angle connectors, either.
I would make a three-sided box as mentioned, predrill three holes (depending on how scared you are, I would do three end,end, and mid), and send some Tap-Cons into the concrete with fat washers backing them up to distribute the force.
Take whatever liberties you fancy with the aesthetics from there.
Code is a whole nother can of worms, and you're on your own with that considering how wildly they vary in such short distances.
Personally, I wouldn't care as long as I ensured the wire gauge was sufficient and connections were secure.
Barring anything stupid, I wouldn't give a crap about code unless you're planning on selling the house. If you do end up selling, just remember you'll likely need whatever you do to be redone to code.
Any idea what was there before and why was it removed? All good suggestions above and to avoid spending twice the money and time, I’d consult your local friendly home inspector on how to do it once and right.
Seriously, i would urge/exhort/beg you ignore any advice except to consult the code (and make sure you understand it completely) or a licensed electrician and put all splices/junctions of electric wire in code approved junction boxes with approved cable clamps, bushings, connectors. You cannot permanently cover any splices/junction boxes - that’s a good way to start a fire someday. I would not rely on a “home inspector”, no disrespect intended, but they are NOT electricians, get a permit and ask the code inspector (the response may have meant code inspector vs home inspector) or hire an electrician for a consult- electric code isn’t some govt conspiracy, houses burn down every single day because otherwise good people don’t know what they don’t know. Not wanting to argue with anyone - this isn’t recent code vs the previous edition. This is fundamentals 101 - put it in a code approved box and do not cover it permanently, it must be accessible - use a junction box plate to cover the box.
There was a part of wall (made out of gypsum) which has been party removed. So the rest of the electrical wires which went through the wall are now dangling in the air. The idea was to remove the wall anyway and have two hidden lights in the wooden box which would hide the wires as well.
According to the electrician who did the wiring, there is nothing which prohibits putting these wires and lights into wooden box.
These are normal 220v/10A wires and small 4W lights. We are in Europe so this is the only part of our house that will be made out of wood (except parquet and doors).
Making three side box is not possible, because there is no way to remove the electrical conduits to put the box above in the first place. It would be possible to put the upper part of the box at the ceiling, then put the sides (using angle connectors) and then the last part of the box at the bottom. That would insure everything is nice and square. I would rather use the angle connectors then screws which would be then visibile from the sides (I do not want that).
If you can't "roll" the 3-sided box in, you could fasten the back with the Tap-Con/washers and then use dowels to attach the 3-sided box portion.
You could not glue them, making for easy access later if needed.
I suggest posting at Fine Homebuilding.