Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 18, 2003 07:43pm | #1

   I use Ball jars all the time, because they come in all sizes, you can size the jar to the amount of finish you're mixing.  The down side is that they will break if they hit the floor hard enough.  They're pretty tough though, I haven't broken one in years.  For the most part I try not to make up more finish than I need for the job at hand, so I don't have to store leftovers.

   A paint store will have clean empty one gallon paint cans to buy, some may also stock quarts and pints.   Water based finishes can go into plastic kitchen ware, but I'd be hesitant to put solvent based material in plastic.

   John W.

1. 
   fredb | Jun 18, 2003 09:22pm | #2

   Hi John,

   Thanks for sharing your experience. I'll pick some jars up as I need them.Kind regards - Fred

1. 
   senior85222 | Jun 20, 2003 04:01am | #9

   Fred,

   If you are talking about canning jars they may not always be available when you want them.  I visited my local variety store to get one once and they did not have them in stock.  I was told they would be in stock late summer into the fall.  This may not be generally true, but thought you might want to know.

   Dick

1. 
   DHoov2 | Jun 20, 2003 07:15am | #10

   Why can't plastic containers, like peanut putter jars, be used to store solvent based products?  Will the solvent breakdown the plastic, or are they somehow not airtight?

   Thanks.

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 20, 2003 04:54pm | #11

   It is almost impossible to be sure how a solvent and a plastic will respond to each other.  Sometimes the plastic will breakdown quickly, but there's always a chance it could happen slowly, starting a leak that wouldn't begin until after the container had been stored away.  Another problem with certain plastic/solvent combinations is that the solvent will migrate through the plastic and slowly evaporate into the air, leaving the oils and solids behind.

   On many containers the plastic in the lid will be different from the wall material, doubling the chance of having problems.

   John

2. 
   forestgirl | Jun 20, 2003 07:50pm | #12

   Seems like recently (within the last 6 months) a sad Knothead posted about leaving some finish on his workbench or countertop in a plastic container, coming out the next day and finding the semi-cured finish all over the surface, container melted through.  Yuck!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   forestgirl | Jun 19, 2003 02:23am | #3

   I have successfully kept shellac/alcohol-based mixtures in sturdy plastic containers, and water-based of course.  There are certain food products that get nominated partly because of the kind of container they come in:

   • Kirkland yogurt at Costco -- 24 tapered containers with lids, nest together when waiting to be used.  Lids are handy independently to squirt glue onto or mix epoxy
   • Jalapeno jars -- short but with a very wide mouth
   • Love baby-food jars, but not bad enough to have a baby
   • Pre-made frosting, peanut butter,  come in very sturdy plastic tubs with lids. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 19, 2003 03:54am | #4

   Fred, Save any or many old tin paint cans clean and wipe them for later use,

   When storing used stains, sealer etc. Be sure to fill them up to keep out air which will skin stuff over. 

   When I store a partially  empty tub of spackle or,wood filler, I place a cut to size disc of heavy plastic wrap that comes with sliced cold cuts from the deli.(That stuff is great to use to keep glue/,shellac/stain  from sticking to clamps/workbenches,cleats etc ,etc.)

   An old trick I used to keep a half filled jar or bottle of photographic chemicals from oxidizing was to insert a rubber balloon into the container then blow it up to expel the air above the developer/fixer, etc, etc.      Stein.

   
   

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   Edited 6/18/2003 8:58:07 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   DougF | Jun 19, 2003 09:18pm | #7

   All,

   An old painter showed me his trick for keeping finishes: he stores everything upside-down trapping what free air there is on the inverted bottom and sealing the container furhter against air leakage.  He also introduced me to the concept of placing 3 or 4 holes strategically punched in the top grove.  When you place the lid back on the can, paint in the grove is forced back into the can through the holes.  Saves alot of splatters when you mallet the lid back on.

   Doug

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 20, 2003 03:39am | #8

   Hey Doug,great idea up turning cans and punching drain down holes. I'll file it with some of my neat tricks. 

   Here's one of mine. You know when you're drilling a blind hole in wood and you don't have a pre set depth stop on hand?

   Save a few 'knockouts' of various sizes and thicknesses you get FREE when you use a holesaw on wood?

   Just slip a few on that 'too long'bit and you're in business. I magic mark them so as to pick 'em out of the sawdust.

   Speaking of holesaws, When ever I must bore an accurate hole in wood/brass/plastic,

   I  drill the pilot hole first with a 1/4"bit,

   Then I substitute a length of 1/4"drill rod for the pilot drill (Twist bits"wander')

   Also keep several different lengths of drill rod for deep holes/ angled holes or, 'Can't get at it' holes (Drill motor too fat)

   To keep the rod from slipping, grind a 'flat' to receive the setscrew.

   Those knock out slugs can be used  as pilots when you have to enlarge another 'too small' hole. Stein.

   To make the exact size you need for these 'slug pilots',

   Mount the 'nearest to fit' sixe on to a 1/4 " bolt and nut in your drill and rasp or rough sand it to size.

   Piece of cake !      Stein.

   Edited 6/19/2003 8:48:04 PM ET by steinmetz

2. 
   SparrowHawk | Jun 21, 2003 12:30pm | #13

   I used to punch holes in the rim of my paint cans but that gives air access to the material which can be a problem over time. The purpose of the holes of course, is to let the material that gets into the groove get back into the can .. but there is a way to avoid getting anything in that groove. Put a taut rubber band around the open can and wipe your brush on that instead of the rim. When you are finished just toss the rubber band.

   Ken

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 21, 2003 06:05pm | #14

   Most of the paint-in-groove for me gets in there when I pour the paint into a roller pan.  Got one of those snap-on lip/cover thingies, but turns out it only fits metal cans, not the plastic that some latex comes in these days.  Hmmmmm.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

4. 
   stancalow | Jun 19, 2003 04:56am | #5

   Fred

   I reuse jars that would otherwise be thrown away:  salvaging pickle, jam or or other jar.    For this purpose, there's no reason to over-engineer it.  The best tip was to not plan on saving any material, just mix up as much as you need for the job.

1. 
   fredb | Jun 19, 2003 04:06pm | #6

   Hi All..

   Thank you all for your insight and sharing your tip & tricks! I'll be looking at our recycling bin with eyes wide open now.Kind regards - Fred