We are getting ready to spray our new kitchen cabinets on-site with Sherwin Williams Kemvar Plus conversion varnish. My question concerns proper ventilation. What is the best way to ensure proper ventilation when spraying conversion varnish on-site using an HVLP sprayer?
Andrea
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NOT AN EXPERT - read as suggestions.
I do quite a bit of HVLP spraying, but not on-site, always in a workshop or outdoors.
In the workshop I place a desk fan behind the project to try to keep an airflow from me to the work then away. I get a bit of a wind-tunnel effect if I open front and back doors (I live somewhere warm!) so close the front door and blow out the back.
You can do much the same in a kitchen If you have a window (or door) behind any of the cabinets. I would get a cheap fan (as big as you can find but it needs to fit into a window opening.
Remove the window and replace with a sheet of 3/4 inch MDF with a hole in it to hold the fan so as much air as possible goes outwards.
run the fan whilst spraying to keep air moving outwards. You are aiming to have a very gentle flow towards the fan. At high speed, most desk fans will achieve this - not to the level of a proper spray room, but enough to keep the air going away from you. Keep other doors in the house shut, though if you have a modern airtight home you may need to open one a crack.
This has a few benefits.
First, it keeps any airflow towards your work very gentle. All the extraction force should be behind the work and away. This gives large dust particles time to settle out on their way.
As compared with opening a window, it prevents eddies and blow-back.
Other hints:
Mask everything for at least twice as far as you think you need to. Spray can travel a long way.
Wear a respirator rated for the product - you can ask your safety gear supplier.
Do a practice piece first even if you do a lot of HVLP spraying. The results will vary a lot depending on the formula you are using and exactly how much you have thinned it.
A window fan? Really? That's very dangerous advice. Here's the safety sheet from SW for Kemvar Plus (spoiler alert, it is extremely flammable!) : Highly flammable liquid and vapor. Runoff to sewer may create fire or explosion hazard.In a fire or if heated, a pressure increase will occur and the container may burst, with the risk of a subsequent explosion. The vapor/gas is heavier than air and will spread along the ground. Vapors may accumulate in low or confined areas or travel a considerable distance to a source of ignition and flash back.
I personally have always been reluctant to spray CV outside of a spray booth. The original SW Kemvar CV had formaldehyde in it but I believe the plus claims to formaldehyde free. I would still contact SW to get their advice about the advisabilty of spraying this product in what I assume is an occupied home.
Apparently Kemvar Plus still has formaldehyde. This from its safety sheet: Isobutylated Urea-Formaldehyde Polymer≥10 - ≤2568002-18-62-Methyl-1-propanol≥10 - ≤1878-83-1n-Butyl Acetate≤10123-86-41-Butanol≤7.271-36-3Ethanol≤364-17-5Cyclohexanone≤1.6108-94-1Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate≤1.5763-69-9Light Aromatic Hydrocarbons<164742-95-6Ingredient nameCAS number% by weightOther means of identification:Not available.Substance/mixtureCAS number/other identifiers:MixtureDate of issue/Date of revision:1/18/2021Date of previous issue:12/9/2020Version:18.022/20H66V54SHER-WOOD® KEMVAR® Plus Conversion VarnishGloss Blending ClearSHW-85-NA-GHS-US
Don't worry about the butyl urea-formaldehyde polymer - its not free formaldehyde, which is the issue, nor does it release free formaldehyde. Remember that in the case of formaldehyde, a cancer-causation is based on repeated, long term exposures, not a single exposure. I don't worry about it much, as the hysteria is mostly in California where they once tried to set an indoor limit that was lower than the outdoor air in Yellowstone National Park.
Good to know!
thanks for the replies I appreciate it!
Its a huge undertaking - lots of masking, sealing off and ventilation and PPE.
Usually the doors and drawer fronts are removed and sprayed outside. Face frames, soffits, crown etc. are all you should need to paint.
I really wouldn't spray that kind of stuff inside a house.
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