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I am making cope and stick doors with a set of matched CMT router bits in red oak and have a problem with tearout in the sticking cut along edge of stiles. Any suggestions as to how to prevent or at least reduce?
Thanks
JD
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I am making cope and stick doors with a set of matched CMT router bits in red oak and have a problem with tearout in the sticking cut along edge of stiles. Any suggestions as to how to prevent or at least reduce?
Thanks
JD
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Replies
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J.D: With a set of matching cutters,try making the cope cuts on the rail ends first. Use a backup block to prevent splintering. There should be no problem with the sticking on the long grain.¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
*I guess there is 2 ways to interpret your question. One way, is that you are having tearout on the edge profile. If this is your problem, I would say taking light cuts would solve it, and paying attention to the grain direction, would also help. If your problem is tearout on the endgrain while doing the cope cuts, then the best way to deal with this is to make one or more wide pieces, and cope the ends. For instance, if you need 4 2inch wide rails, make one 8 wide board. Then rip to width, and run the edge profile. You will find that this approach is safer, and much easier. I hope this helped.
*Actually the problem I am running into is with the sticking on the long grain, every once in awhile I get a little bit of tearout. Sounds like making more passes removing less stock maybe the answer correct?JD
*Mebby so.¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
*I have attached a scan taken from my shaper book showing the way to feed stock, for the best finish. Of course the router lacks the ability to reverse direction like the shaper, so you'll have to go by the drawing at the top of the scan. Working this way, and taking lighter cuts, you will get perfect results. Another way to avoid tearout, is to take a climb cut, which is done by feeding the stock with the rotation of the bit. This is not easy to do with large cutters, but it does prevent tearout. Don't try this with narrow stock, or if it makes you uncomfortable. I will do this with a hand held router, but I never do it with the shaper, and I rarely do it with table mounted routers.
*Thanks much for the info.JD
*As a follow up question I was recently at a woodworking show and the Sommerfeld/CMT tool demonstrator suggested goose cuts to mitigate this problem. He said that the tearout was caused by the surface tension in the red oak and to relieve that tension they take the rail and cut in to it to the depth of the bit at about 2 inch centers along the entire length. Then profile it as normal along the same edge and the problem is eliminated.Anyone have any experience out there using these goose cuts?ThanksJD
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